Wish You Were Here: Life in Turgutreis.

“We’re just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl, year after year,
Running over the same old ground. What have we found?
The same old fears. Wish you were here.” ~ Pink Floyd

I remember the first morning well. I was groggy, seriously jet-lagged and seriously 3-months post birth. The night before had been a long dark travel blur to get to our house high up on a hill. I knew we were close when the car kicked into first gear gasping for gasoline as it slowly pushed up the final stretch of pavement. I also knew there was something fantastic waiting for me out there. That next morning, I was awakened by a steady twinkling light. I blinked to open my eyes, ran up the stairs only to see, what would later be coined “the million dollar view”. From as far as my eyes could see, blue. The sea and the sky, one; bound together by tiny islands that bounced across the horizon.

That was 10 years ago and the start of our annual pilgrimage to our little piece of paradise — Turgutreis. Each year a new yearning brings a new discovery in this breathtaking piece of the world; where within the clear dry heat of the July and August months emerge a sky and sea worthy of the likes of Zeus and Poseidon.

Turgutreis is a one of the 11 townships found in the Bodrum district located in the southwestern Aegean Region of Turkey. Bodrum, once known as Halicarnossos (or Halicarnassus), dates back to the 13th century BC. Once a more simpler town filled with fisherman and sponge divers, Bodrum is now a bustling region filled with chic nightclubs and all inclusive resorts lined with gold columns and arches attracting celebrities, arab sheiks and diplomatic leaders from around the world. Other townships include: Bodrum proper, Bitez, Golturkbuku, Gumusluk, Gundogan, Konacik, mumcular, Ortakent Yahsi, Yali and Yalikavak. (each with their own gems…but that’s a topic for another time!)

Turgutreis itself was once called Karatoprak but was renamed some 40 years ago to recognize the Turkish seaman and Ottoman admiral Turgut Reis who was born there in 1485. Turgutreis is surrounding by a total of 14 little islands, including the Greek islands of Kos and Kalymnos.

Although Turgutreis does lack the glitz and celebrity-ness of a Yalikavak and Turkbuku and the charm of a Gumusluk and Yahsi, in its place it holds this unique regional pureness and deep sense of local community. Yes, Turgutreis has its share of tourists but the locals and Turks remain the obvious majority. And then there’s that view. Turgutreis’ location on the Bodrum peninsula, at its westernmost point, provides the stage for the most magical view (and sunset) I’ve ever seen. Unobstructed, pristine and million dollar.

Photo: That million dollar Turgutreis view.

The days go by gently during the July and August months in Turgutreis. Happily and unplanned, each cloudless day blends into the next with only the gradual change in your skin tone to remind you of the number of days passed since your arrival. For the most part, these days can be broken down into 6 parts:

Sunrise: This is when the sun is just coming up over the hill, revving up its intensity for the day. The gentle cool breeze of the night still present. Before the “wake up” breakfast music from nearby Woxxie Hotel (formally Feye Pinara Hotel) begins. During the July and August months it is the ONLY time you can get in your daily exercise. You will see a handful of people walking or running along the narrow roadway. If you are looking for some indoor fitness a little later in the morning, check out Dogru Yoga. Yes, a yoga studio right in Turgutreis center. Natalia Dogru runs the studio and luckily does speak english, although all classes are done in Turkish. The focus is on slower, more focused movement and…headstands. You will need to check the schedule but classes typically begin as early as 10am in the summer.

Breakfast: Let me make this clear…in all of Turkey there is nothing more special than breakfast. Skipping is typically frowned upon. The variety and simplicity of the spread appeals to everyone. Whether you are a sucuk (Turkish sausage) and eggs person or in the mood for sausage (basically red-pork-free hot dogs), cucumbers, tomatoes and Turkish kasar cheese — there’s something for everyone. Fresh fruit, olives, bread baked fresh just that morning (always), and, of course, cay (tea). The sun has finally completed its initial climb, Woxxie’s DJ has just welcomed its guests to their day “Günaydin eve-ry-bod-ee!”, the steam wizzing out of the samavour in the kitchen, implying: “Kahvalti hazir”. “Breakfast is ready”. In Turgutreis breakfast is always done outdoors, the smell of the bougainvilleas, air and sea all add to the flavors and tastes of the meal. “Afiyet olsun”…and a clank of the tea glasses as they come together (just barely) to celebrate the meal.

Photo: Breakfast with the family.

Beach: The one of the many things that differ in this Turkish-Aegean culture from that of the U.S. is the speed. That includes the need to get to the beach as quickly and as urgently as possible. When you are living on the Aegean the sun is your loyal friend, especially in the July and August months. He is there from morning until the last second of the day. He is patient, happy and will be there on the beach when YOU are ready for him. It took me a while to get used to this as I grew up in New England, and when the sun was out and hot you knew your time was limited. I once spent an entire month in Turgutreis and throughout that entire month, I did not see a single cloud. Every day, like the previous…blue and honest. Most housing complexes have rights to their own private beach. But for a small fee you can gain access to many of the hotel and resort beaches found along the coastline of Turgutreis into the neighboring town of Akyarlar. And there are plenty of public beaches in and between. Nothing fancy, just what you need.

So you find your spot on a rented lounge chair, negotiating with your sea-and-wind-beaten umbrella how much sun you are going to let in when you hear in the distance a man shouting in non threatening opportunistic tone. You finally see him, as he pushes his metal cart along the beach. “Sutlu Misir!”, he shouts. ”Milky Corn?” you say to yourself after a quick check on your Google translator. Hmmm…“Yes, please!” Suddenly you find yourself eating the most delicious hot corn on a beach. And it’s actually refreshing. Cay? Sure, why not. And this, my friend, is Turgutreis.

Photo: A typical sutlu miser seller on a Turgutreis/Akyarlar beach.

Time for a dip. In my opinion, there are certain things that every individual who has a passion for travel must do before they die and one of these things is to swim in the Aegean sea. You have no idea how wonderful your body (both inside and out) can feel until you have immersed yourself into the salty richness of this therapeutic water.

One of the other things this water does to you is make you incredibly hungry. And if corn and tea don’t seem to be cutting it then head on down to Turgutreis center for the beloved Dürüm Doner. And not the late night street cart version but instead one that is hand crafted to your order. Located in the center of busy Turgutreis, Gaziantep Kebab, is a small easy-to-miss “Lahmacun and Baklava saloon” (as it states on their business card). Their food is all made to order. Which means you will need to wait. (Remember that speed thing?) Something you will quickly need to get used to on these trips to Bodrum, time does not exist. No one is in a rush so the longer you fight it the more miserable you will be, trust me, been there. Anyway, back to the Dürüm…it’s a delicious mix of meats (typically lamb) rolled up in bread that has been made fresh. You will watch as the chef rolls, pats, and throws the dough until it’s in a soft pillowy state at which time it is placed in a giant oven. Once cooked to flaky soft perfection, the bread is wrapped around the meat, greens (a parsley type green), onion and tomatoes. When it finally hits your hands you’ll wish you ordered 2. They go down so easy.

Photo: Me enjoying a Dürüm.

While you are in town, why not take a wonder through the street paths of downtown Turgutreis. Made up mostly of knock-off goods, in an amongst the clutter is beacon of soaps and sponges and towels like nothing you have seen before. Bodrum Safran is this unique soap shop filled with hand made olive soaps (of all shapes and sizes), sea sponges, glass beads, beautifully made turkish towels and wraps and other hand made gifts. I make a point to visit every time I’m in Turgutreis, Be sure to stock on the hand towels and the smaller guest soaps made of pure olive oil.

Hottest time of the day: Hand down, between 4pm-6pm are the absolute worst times to be outside. The sun is at it’s most intense, pushing out every last bit of heat it has for the day until it begins its romantically beautiful descent to the horizon. So around 3pm, you’ll want to head indoors. And if you are lucky, you’ll be welcome by a large karpuz (watermelon) picked up only hours before from the man with his pickup truck on the side of the beach. If you are not lucky enough to have karpuz waiting for you at home then head down to the marina instead. The Turgutreis Marina is filled with shaded shops, cafes and restaurants built to meet the demands of the many yachts passing through. But I found you don’t need to have a yacht to enjoy shopping and an ice cold frappe.

Sunset: Whiskey, fresh peaches and a million dollar view. The only regret you’ll ever have each day you are in Turgutreis is if you miss that sunset. It’s when everything comes together in your head and you wonder what did I do right in my life to deserve this, to be a witness of such beauty. Your only wish is that you could share it with everyone you know. And you can be sure that as soon as that sun dips below that last distant island, dinner will be served. It’s something about that sunset that makes the food tastes all the better…or maybe it’s the whiskey?

Photo: The sunset whiskey party.

Nightlife: The great thing about staying in Turgutreis is that you don’t have to make the 25 minute drive to Bodrum center for some nightlife action (although it’s always a good idea to check it out at least once). Turgutreis has a bustling downtown which includes the marina that offers a great variety of restaurants and bars, often with live music. For me sometimes I enjoy continuing the apre-dinner drinks on the outdoor balcony taking in the sounds of Woxxie’s, after the dinner DJ has completed his routine, a acoustic mix of turkish and english classics begin to play.

It is at this point in the day that you know, without any doubt, that you are smitten by Turgutreis and the rest of your life will be spent counting the days until you return. T-minus 174 days for me.

Wish you were here. Iyi geceler. Good night.

Check out TripAdvisor for more information on planning your trip to Turgutreis.

Photo: Me back in 2008 stopping for a photo-op.