Hydrantula assembly
1. Make a sketch of what you want to get.
Sometimes it is easier to make "floor plans" or order a realistic 3D model from a dealer.
2.Determine the size of the 3D cell. Calculate the length of all types of tube-beams and reinforcement rods. As well as the approximate consumption of rebar for beams.
When calculating, keep in mind:
* Some of the beams will pass through the fitting - the whole whip can form 2 or 3 girder spans.
* Some of the beams is attached with fixtures or soldered with a manual extruder [the tube ends enters into the bells or binary sockets of the fitting by 8...15cm].
* Some of the beams are welded by butt welding [an allowance is needed 15...25mm on the ends of the tube].
* Some beams are attached to the bell.
* A number of fittings [Y4, S3, U45] are designed so that some beams will be butt welded with one end and inserted into the bell with the other end of tube.
In case of any doubt, try on the pilot pipe cuts in place. Be attentive!
3. Calculate by yourself or with the help of our employee quantity of materials you need [fittings, fibers, tubes of various diameters, rebar, fasteners or welding rods]. Add an allowance for trimming and scrap [for running materials].
4. Decide on the color scheme of the HYDRANTULA fittings.
5. Place an order. There is no need to order concrete in advance!
6. After the arrival of materials, lay out and number the HYDRANTULA fittings according to their positions in the future design. When checking the sketch or drawing, mark which binary sockets are to be drilled on every nod.
If in doubt, delay drilling. It's never too late to do that. But it's quite painful to close an extra hole.
7. It is better to drill pipes for rods on an already assembled structure.
8. Cut in size large diameter tubes [280... 225mm].
9. Butt weld the load bearing columns.
10. Cut in size the rest of the pipes. Including windows for monolithic concreting of through whips.
11. Prepare the reinforcing frames for the tubes. Insert them inside the beams.
12. Assemble the future vertical planes of the structure without fixation and in a supine position.
[I.e. load-bearing columns and tube beams with armpacks related to this plane]
13. After you have made sure that the plane has successfully assembled - level up it "to size" and fix all its beams with an extruder and permanent fasteners [rivets, anchors].
14. Place the planes in the working [vertical] position. In the order they will stand in the final structure.
Make sure that all the planes are assembled into a level!
15. Add the armpacks of the load bearing columns.
16. Insert all remaining pipe beams. Preferably first on temporaly fasteners (self-tapping screws).
17. Make sure that everything is assembled to the level and size. Finally fix all beams with an extruder and/or with permanent fasteners.
18. Drill out the binary sockets for composite rods. Place the brace rods. Secure the rods with hot-melt adhesive or preferably with aluminum press sleeve.
19. Add an external reinforcement made of lumber, if necessary.
20. Select and drill holes in one or more flanges for the concrete duct.
21. Optional: Weld a concrete ductwork.
