Some people leave their hearts in San Francisco; I left my heart in Italy. When Derek and I got married in April 2017, we wanted a simple City Hall wedding so that we could have the honeymoon of our dreams. Italy was the perfect romantic destination to start our new life together.
Before you go to Italy
Planning the Itinerary
Planning was tough. How do you choose between Cinque Terre and The Amalfi Coast? Both seem so perfect. Instead of making those tough decisions, we decided to do both with several other destinations in between. Two weeks was not enough time to explore the intricacies of each place but it was enough to wet our appetite for Italy knowing that we’d return again in the future.
What to Pack for Italy
Only Pack What You’re Willing to Carry Up a Flight of Stairs
It was just my luck that the weather in Italy was exactly the same as the weather in San Francisco in April. You can find me wearing the same sweater and scarf in all the photos 😅. Derek and I brought one backpack each and we’re glad we did after walking through the narrow pathways and stairs in Positano. We saw a family lug rolling suitcases up what seemed like a hundred step and we did not envy them. I would pack light and expect cobblestone roads and stairs everywhere you go.
Cinque Terre
Experience Cinque Terre By Sea
Situated on the rugged Italian Riviera coastline, Cinque Terre is a string of five seaside villages known for their dramatic cliffs and brightly colorful houses.
The towns from north to south are:
- Monterosso
- Vernazza
- Corniglia
- Manarola
- Riomaggiore
We knew we wanted to experience Cinque Terre by sea so we scheduled a boat tour with Angelo’s Boat Tours. Unfortunately, the sea levels were too high so our tour was canceled but we were able to see each town using the ferry, which was a more affordable option. Seeing each town by sea was breathtaking and I get nostalgic just thinking about it. I would eventually like to do Angelo’s Boat Tour when we go back.
Get a Tan in Monterosso
Monterosso is the only town in Cinque Terre that has a beach. This beach will literally melt all your troubles away and the only work you have to worry about is working on your tan.
Lunch at La Lampara Ciak
I’ve had really good Italian food in the U.S. so I was curious how that would compare to food in Italy. One thing that surprised me about the meals we had was the high quality seafood. From the marinated anchovies to the fresh octopus in olive oil—the food exceeded my expectations. Cinque Terre is the birth place of pesto so you have to try that while you’re here.
Hike the Monterosso — Vernazza Footpath
A train conveniently connects the five towns of Cinque Terre, but why take the train when you can hike. Vernazza is famous for its caruggi (narrow lanes) that at any moment can take you on a vertical maze to the top of the cliff’s edge. We hiked the Monterosso — Vernazza Footpath at 7am to avoid the crowds and enjoyed the view of the town while people slept.
Dinner at Nessun Dorma Cinque Terre
The iconic cliffside image people think of when they hear “Cinque Terre” is actually the town of Manarola. Head to Punta Bonfiglio to find this prize winning view and the dreamiest cliffside restaurant—Nessun Dorma Cinque Terre. We went a little before sunset and it was a meal to remember.
Florence
Florence at 7am
We had less than 24 hours in Florence (I know, what a shame), so we made the most of it by waking up at 7am to explore the city. Our Airbnb was a convenient 10 minute walk from Piazza del Duomo, the heart of the historic center of Florence. We marveled at the Gothic and Renaissance architecture and found a cute crêpe place for breakfast.
Florence Cathedral
One simply can’t go to Florence without going to Florence Cathedral, also known as Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore. The icon red-tiled dome and colored marble facade had me crushing real hard 😍.
Giotto’s Campanile
Next to the Florence Cathedral is, Giotto’s Campanile, a freestanding bell tower with panoramic views of Florence. You must climb 414 steps to get to the top but the views are worth it.
Piazzale Michelangelo
Speaking of panoramic views, Piazzale Michelangelo offers one of the best view of Florence. We loved crossing the medieval stone bridges across the Arno River to get to Piazzale Michelangelo.
Recommended Places I Haven’t Visited
- Uffizi Gallery
- David
- Seeing more remote areas of Tuscany
Sorrento
Day Trip to Sorrento
We hired a driver to take us down to the Amalfi coast and meeting Pepe, our driver, was one of the highlights of our trip. He told us stories about the area and we stopped in his hometown of Sorrento for a few hours to explore a new part of Italy. The streets here are lined with lemon trees 😍.
Drive Down SS 163 Amalfitana (Or Hire a Driver)
The Amalfi coast is one of the best coastal drives in the world. The roads are famous for its hairpin twists and turns over the sea. Pepe was able to navigate the roads for us while we enjoyed the views.
Positano
Walking the Pathways of Positano
Positano is something special. This once humble fishing village exploded with tourism in the early 20th century with the construction of SS163 and is now a trendy vacation spot for celebrities, artists, and tourists.
The village is small and everything is easily accessible by walking. Sometimes the path will make it seem like you’re walking through someone’s home but that’s part of the charm 😊. Be warned—there are many steps.
Le Sirenuse
If you have the resources, you should stay at Le Sirenuse, the premier hotel in Positano. If you are like us, however, you come here for a pre-dinner drink and take photos on all of the terraces and hallways 😅. Best $18 I’ve ever spent.
Marina Grande Beach
Head to Marina Grande Beach to get the picture-perfect view of Positano. Activities here include sunbathing, grabbing a bite to eat from the numerous bars and restaurants, and catching shuttle boats to nearby bays.
Ristorante La Terra in Montepertuso
Before Pepe dropped us off, we asked him for restaurant recommendations and he arranged a dinner for us at Ristorante La Terra. A driver picked us up from our Airbnb, and when we arrived, the server brought us two glasses of prosessco curtesy of Pepe. We were so touched 😭. We ended up eating there for over 3 hours because everything was so delicious.
Recommended Places I Haven’t Visited
- Bagni d’Arienzo Beach Club
- Music on the Rocks
- Da Vincenzo Positano
Capri
Day Trip in Capri
I thought I had our whole itinerary set until my coworker asked if I was going to Capri 😳. After a bit of Googling, I shuffled all of our plans to squeeze in yet another destination.
Gardens of Augustus
When we got to the Piazzetta, there was lots of shopping and photos of celebrities in storefronts to lure in tourists. We were not impressed with Capri until we went to Gardens of Augustus and saw sweeping views of the sea 😍.
Chairlift to the Top of Mount Solaro
Mount Solaro is the highest point of Capri with the best panoramic views. For me, riding the chairlift was better than the view at the top.
After exploring Mount Solaro, we walked around Anacapri and this area was more our style. There were less crowds and we spent the rest of the day leisurely walking around and eating gelato.
Recommended Places I Haven’t Visited
- Blue Grotto
Rome
Two Days in Rome
A couple planes, several trains, a car, and many boat rides later, we made it to our final destination, Rome, before flying back to San Francisco. Almost a year later, I’ve yet to form an opinion on whether I’d recommend going to Rome or not. We checked out all the highlights like The Colosseum, The Vatican, The Roman Forum, The Pantheon, and Trevi Fountain but I think it was mostly crowded and my puny brain couldn’t comprehend how ancient and significant everything was. You’ll have to experience it for yourself.
Eat Jewish Fried Artichokes
One thing about Rome that I’m absolutely obsessed with are Jewish Fried Artichokes! 😋 Huge Roman artichokes begin appearing in February or early March but they are served all year long.
Takeaways From Italy
Eat as the Locals Eat
When in Italy, it is only polite to eat as the locals eat. Dinners should start with prosecco, followed by an appetizer, antipasto, and a pasta dish. Next is the entree, a side and some dessert or cheese. Finish off the meal with an espresso and a digestivo like limoncello. No wonder our dinners were two to three hours long. This trip was a nice reminder that meals should be a celebration of the location, the culture, and the season and not just a way to get sustenance. I could get use to this slower pace of life.
Italy is Best Experienced By Sea
If you went to Italy but didn’t get on a boat, did you even go to Italy? 😛
There’s Just Not Enough Time
This itinerary was obviously insane for two weeks but we just wanted to see as much as possible ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. In my dream world we could have also visited Venice, explored remote parts of Tuscany, and hiked to Lago di Sorapiss but ain’t nobody got time for that in one trip 👏.
As always, we met some amazing people who left an impression on our hearts. Pepe treated us like royalty. Valentina, our Airbnb host, left croissants on our door every morning and called me “Bella” and she kissed me on the cheek. We met an elderly couple celebrating decades of marriage and they shared their marriage secrets with us to set us up for success 😊.
Thanks for being so delicious, Italy. Until next time.
