How to climb Noshaq
Ehm, wait, Noshaq… isn’t that in Afghanistan? You will hear from your friends when considering the trip. Well, you should not have prejudices. You also can’t assume that everybody from NYC is a comedian just because Trump is coming from there.
Noshaq is located in north at Pakistan — Afghan border. That also sounds suspicious, but because of Pamir mountain wall, the area is quite isolated from Taliban areas. Moreover, Wakan is populated by Ismaili people that are in general against Taliban. The biggest threat is that you will be looted by the local service providers. But we will get to it later. Well, that’s not the only threat, that’s certain.
Compare to standard 7k peaks where you can get nice service in BC you will be facing some more challenges. First, the biggest challenge is logistics. Secondly, it is about security. The other challenge will be climbing the peak.
Before getting to Afghanistan
There are several things that you should not forget. First are VISAs; remember that you would like to return to the Tajikistan. Thus, you will need double entry to avoid ending stuck in Afghanistan. Secondly, besides your good climbing gear that you can’t rent in Afghanistan, you will need to get a propane-butane mix. This could be a problem as it can’t be carried on a plane and it’s not easy to get in Dushanbe. You can get butane cartridges, but butane has a problem of igniting and burning below 5 degrees. And you should expect up to -18 in Noshaq. In the worst case, you can heat butane cartridges in your sleeping bag, that will give you 10 minutes of burning your Reactor or other fast boiling devices. The second option is that you can get the propane-butane mix but in funny cartridges that you need to impale and I have no idea who is using it. You can buy a burner for the cartridges in the same marketplace, but they are of poor quality; often does not work and boiling time is far from Reactor or other fast boiling devices. Also, it’s very handy if you are a bigger group able to obtain 10l gas tanks with a stove. It’s much more convenient to cook for more people in BC on the normal stove than small outdoor flames. They are cheap; approximately $15 including gas. One set weighs 8kg, but it’s worth to transport and have them in BC. The good idea is to get Tajik prepaid SIM. It’s cheap and most of the people you will be interacting in Afghanistan are using Tajik cells as well.
Getting to Afghanistan
First of all, the best way on how to get to the Hindu Kush is through Dushanbe. Do not try from Kabul, as that would raise even mine eyebrow. Tajiks are very friendly and honest people; unfortunately, you can’t say the same about state employees that are hyper-corrupt and ask for bribes in every occasion. If there is no occasion that you are on the wrong side, they will create one. Your car will be stopped several times per day and police will not even bother to make some reasons for the bribe. They will simply tell your driver the price. Good news is that they are asking for 5 or 10 Somoni, that is about $1. Another way is to hunt for tourist at night in Dushanbe and try to get the passport from them for some reason and get them to the police station. The best way to avoid such cases is to keep a copy of your passport with you. Anyway, I strongly encourage everyone not to pay for several moral and harming reasons.
Besides the fact that the Tajiks are an honest nation you will be charged the same prices as locals with the same level of service.
The best way to get to the Afghanistan is by rented 4x4 which is a big car that can take up to 7 passengers and about 300kg of climbing material. It costs around $800 one way. A small car that will take 4 passengers will cost around $450. A reputable operator that can arrange all on your behalf is Silk Pamir Travel (+992) 98 562 49 00 or info@pamirsilk.travel. They speak very fluent English, are very helpful and can arrange everything.
The Trip takes two days on poor, but interesting roads of Pamir highway. My recommendation is to sleep at half way; otherwise, you will arrive wasted and missing strength for BC walk. Sleep cost from $1 to $15 in modest facilities.
Afghanistan
The right point to cross the borders is in Iskhashim. You should be aware that borders are open Monday to Thursday from 9 to 12:00 and then from 14:00 to 16:00. The times are not exact and can vary +- 30 minutes. Tajik side is not a problem, but once you leave Tajikistan, you will become one big rich wallet for locals that have strong communistic habits of fair distribution of wealth. It starts at borders where tourists are often asked for extra “fee” around $20 to be allowed to Afghanistan. I strongly discourage anyone to pay those illegal fees and raise a complaint. The other cheat is that border police will force you to use TAXI they book for you and will charge between $20 and $80 to Iskhashim a distance of approximately 8km. Tourists face similar looting treatment in the majority of the places across the world. The best way is to have a prior organized transportation to Iskhasihim and Qazideh that is the starting point to Noshaq BC trek. Transportation can be organized by Silk Pamir Travel as well or by local provider Yormohmammada +992501866930. The problem is that local providers often overcharge. It’s normal that tourists are asked to pay $400 for a 20km return trip by van. It is always important to ask about prices before boarding and always argue to pay a fair price.
In Iskashim you need to get several permissions where some paperwork must be done. It involves registration with police, permission with border police and Wakan permit. All permissions are offered free. You can arrange them by yourself, but it could cost you up to 2 days. An easier way is to let your guide to do all paperwork, for example, Yormohmammada. The charges are approximately $30 per person, and you will get value for your money.
In Iskhashim there are two guesthouses. The first is Wafai guesthouse with a long history and charge $25 per night including dinner and breakfast. We have not tried the second guesthouse, but the price is approximately $35 per night. In Wafai guesthouse the food is nice, but you should be aware of meat that could be poisonous and could make you have bad moments in Afghanistan. It’s simply due to lack of electricity, and thus there are no options to store fresh meat. Tajikistan supplies electricity for 2 hours per day. Thus you need to plan and try to charge all your devices before getting out of Tajikistan. A solar charger is a good option that can be used in the place.
Most of the providers seem very friendly, but you should be careful with overcharging. Everybody will be trying to rip you off, and it is wise to ask about prices in advance.
The second option is that if you already have permits earlier to pass Iskhashim and go straight to Qazideh, which is the starting point for the trek. There is only one guest house with modest food for $25 per night including breakfast and dinner as well. Transportation between Iskhashim and Qazideh should cost a maximum of $50 for a standard sedan.
Getting to BC
Trekking starts in Qasideh. Most of the expeditions will need porter service that can be arranged straight in the village. All is under the control of tribe elder, something like a village mayor. Porters rely on his decision. This service is still developing, and in 2016 they were not transparent about prices and the mode of charging. They are charging $20 per day for transporting 21kg. On our side we tried to give them a piece of advice to charge per load, and we hope they will follow our advice. Thus, count $60 for delivering 21kg to base camp.
It’s a good idea also to hire Azamat +992501263357 who can speak decent English and can help a lot to solve communication problems. In general, I recommend getting in touch with him. He is not the best organizer, but he is the most honest local and can be very helpful. He charges the same $20 per day.
The trek is 37km and normally takes 3 days and two nights. You should not rush trekking because it’s a big step to ascend to 4600m in less than two nights and can develop high altitude sickness. Porters have their food and very modest sleeping blankets. It may happen, that during rainy season you will need to help them with accommodation them in your tents. They can also have problems with altitude, and you should have medicine for headaches for them as well. It is also very important to note that there are unmarked mine fields. They are close to the first camping spot but could also be in other places. So in the first 15 km, it’s safe to stay close to the path. Locals have good knowledge about where the fields are located.
Trekking is nice, smooth on rock moraine with not much surprises. There are plenty spots for camping on the way. The first camp spot has problem with water that can be polluted and looks like coffee. Thus it’s good to have a filter. Or get used to it :)
On 3rd day before the noon, you should reach BC.
BC
Base camp (4600m) is located in a quite hostile nature. There are only stones, dust and wind. The air is so dry and dusty that your mucous will be quite destroyed that cleaning your nose from blood will become standard. Ouch, and Jackdaws. It’s important to hide and secure all food and trash. The best is to secure everything because they are curious and can steal other material. In BC are spots for tent and some provisional buildings made out of stones. They serve as kitchen or wind barrier for your tent. There are also two latrines on the side of the camp. Water is on the upper side of the camp. I also constructed there a natural water purifier, so enjoy.
Climbing
Weather is stable with small surprises. If it’s not snowing in the morning, then most probably the day would remain sunny. The very likely afternoon will be cloudy and could snow. So the best time to start climbing is very early morning and finish till 14:00.
From BC you need to walk approximately an hour below the wall. Climbing starts with 1000m high and narrow couloir. There is the threat of falling stones so beware and if possible, wear the helmet. Despite that on photo couloir looks steep, it’s easy to climb with crampons. At the end of the couloir at 5400m is C1 plateau. Very nice place with snow to melt.
From there, the climbing is straight up again that is mostly steep snow walk with several places to camp. One, C2- with small water reservoir is at 6000. The official C2 camp is at 6200. Both are magnificent since they are protected behind the stone wall against the wind that can be very strong. You can expect very pleasant temperature for the 7k peak. During the day it could be nice up to 25 and when it’s cloudy, it’s between 5 and -5. At night temperature is around -10, but in C3 it can drop to -17.
From C2 to C3 the walk is the same boring on snow fields occasionally around stone piles. C3 is just below the main stone wall that needs to be climbed. C3 is at 6900, and our co-climbers named it the most terrible place due to the wind. They favored the C4 just above the wall. There are two routes to climb the wall, from left or right. Most of the people who climbed through the right claim that next time they would climb using the left route. Our group climbed through the right route that has difficulty approximately 3+. For the decent rock climber, no fixed ropes are needed. But, it’s good to have some for rappelling on the way back. Once you reach the top of the rock, it’s needed to walk the last 1000m on the ridge to reach the summit. The last walk can be difficult to take in deep snow.
Standard time to reach the summit is around 20 days since arriving at BC. Guys from our group succeeded in 11 days, so some shortcuts are possible.
Return trip
Descending is fast. It’s possible to reach the summit and get to BC in one day, but it’s safer to spend the night in C1. You should have to set a phone call to arrange porters for the return trip. They should charge $40 per 21kg. Just be careful, because they are not skilled to count how much time it will take them to get to the BC to collect your luggage. So make reserve. It’s possible to reach Qazideh in one day but to make it convenient; it’s good to sleep in lower camp and arrive next day.
On the way back should be no surprises compared to transport from Dushanbe except Dushanbe airport. It’s one of the messiest, most corrupted and disorganized airport you have ever been. It’s good to come 3 hours before the flight. Customs officers are checking the luggage before the onboard who are looking to steal stuff from you or get a bribe. They will harass you because of expensive stuff you have either expecting bribe or seizure. Thus it is better to have light luggage and be patient with the customs officers.
Epilogue
Afghanistan is a very rough country with even more hostile nature. Services are developing and ripping off the tourists is standard. But If you want to have exceptional experience to climb one of a kind 7k peak by pure style as first climbers in previous century, then Noshaq is the best choice.
