A Must-Read for Fairy Dress Lovers, Why Cortana Captured the Heart of the Spanish Queen
I first encountered Cortana while gathering material for a dress article. I was casually browsing Pinterest when the platform unexpectedly suggested this brand’s lookbook to me. The first thing I saw was Cortana’s bridal collection, and in that moment, I fell in love with the brand, instantly adding it to my material collection.
Unlike traditional wedding dresses, Cortana’s designs exude a sense of ease and natural elegance. They don’t carry the formal and severe aura often associated with bridal attire. Instead, they offer a delicate and soft touch, silently conveying a sense of calm and grace. This is precisely what defines Cortana’s brand philosophy and unique charm.
Founded in 2001 by Rosa Esteva in Spain, Cortana has always adhered to a minimalist, slow-fashion design philosophy. It combines elements of nature, art, architecture, and a deep love for Mediterranean culture, all of which are infused into the brand’s fashion DNA.
How would you describe Mallorca style?
There are many Mallorcas, many interpretations. Our roots are austere, and in that space, we delve into elegance and delicacy, valuing the natural.
Cortana’s unrestrained, nature-loving aesthetic has won the hearts of many confident, intellectual, artistic, and serene women. Even the Queen of Spain is a devoted follower of the brand.
01
- 1970s: Rosa Esteva was born on the island of Mallorca, Spain. Her father was a Mediterranean architect, and from a young age, she was immersed in nature and art, influences that would deeply embed themselves in her design style.
- 1990s: Esteva studied art history and fashion design in Barcelona, laying the theoretical foundation and design philosophy for the future creation of Cortana.
- 2001: The brand was founded by Rosa Esteva in Mallorca, Spain, inspired by her love for her homeland and the world of art and creativity.
- 2003: Cortana opened its first flagship store in Palma, Mallorca, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to local craftsmanship and sustainability.
- 2011: Cortana expanded to Barcelona and Madrid, opening new stores and stepping outside of Mallorca for the first time to enter the larger Spanish market. The brand gradually evolved from custom designs for European elites to ready-to-wear collections. The following year, Rosa won the ‘T de Telva’ prize for Best Spanish Designer.
- 2013: Cortana began selling its products in select international stores, gradually gaining global recognition.
- 2014: Rosa Esteva launched a bridal collection that gained acclaim for its exquisite craftsmanship and romantic designs.
- 2020: Cortana expanded its online store, allowing its products to reach a broader global audience, especially during a significant transformation in the global retail market.
02
In its early days, when the brand was still focused on custom designs for European elites, Cortana was renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship. Each piece was meticulously crafted by artisans in Barcelona and Mallorca, characterized by soft tones, fluid lines, and iconic watercolor prints. The fabrics were made from natural materials like cotton, linen, and silk, handcrafted and released in limited quantities.
One objective of Cortana is to preserve the beautiful profession of seamstress.
Cortana frequently designed costumes for theater actors and dancers. “I would have loved to dress the ballet dancer Pina Bausch and now the actress Tilda Swinton,” said Rosa Esteva.
The best pieces from the brand are the silk dresses. Rosa loves using watercolor techniques, whether for solid colors or prints, all dyed 1:1 on silk from her watercolor paintings. Natural elements, vintage patterns, and the romantic Mediterranean flair are skillfully woven into the designs. Each piece feels like a delicate watercolor painting, with soft hues and rich layers.
Each season, she mixes colors on the drawing board, designs new watercolor patterns, dyes, and prints them, ultimately creating the unique landscape that is Cortana.
The image below shows a watercolor flower print in the top left corner. This uneven watercolor gradient is a recurring theme in each season’s clothing.
The uneven colors of the watercolor flower print resemble the weathered and mottled limestone architecture of Mallorca, Spain, giving it a rough yet soft beauty.
Besides ready-to-wear and bridal lines, Cortana also offers a line called Cortana Case, specializing in ceramics.
Linen garments are stiffer compared to silk, and those with sensitive skin might find them slightly uncomfortable.
03
Currently, Cortana’s ready-to-wear collection includes dresses, tops, shorts, swimwear, shoes, and accessories, with a strong focus on dresses.
Starting with Cortana’s most iconic bridal collection dresses, here is a batch of official photos. The overall design level is high, and any piece is a stunning choice.
Elegant yet understated, natural yet simple, Cortana’s bridal gowns prioritize comfort and ease. The fabrics, such as silk and crepe, are light and soft, giving the gowns a naturally flowing feel and creating a relaxed and effortless atmosphere.
While Cortana’s focus remains on bridal gowns, I have carefully selected these ready-to-wear dresses.
The dresses generally fall into two styles: the first row is more mature and grand, resembling the everyday attire of queens in European period dramas, while the second row is more practical for daily wear.
Cortana’s tops and pants come in two main styles. The first row features tight-fitting pieces with ties, made from soft and lightweight fabrics with a sense of fluidity. Many of Cortana’s tops have asymmetrical designs, with hemlines cut diagonally, creating folds that add texture to the garment.
The second row features more structured and bold designs, suitable for daily and workwear, exuding the aura of a strong female lead. Unlike Toteme and The Row, which have sharper silhouettes, the beige color palette and Mallorca-inspired designs add a natural and relaxed touch.
Compared to the loose-fitting designs of By Malene Birger, Cortana’s garments are more form-fitting, making them especially suitable for slimmer figures.
Since Cortana frequently designs clothing for ballet dancers and theater, several tops, bottoms, and leggings are inspired by professional ballet styles, making them worth a look for ballet enthusiasts.
Cortana also has a signature series: silk tulle. Tops and sleeves made from silk tulle are almost transparent, like melting butter.
Cortana’s official explanation is: “The silk tulle basics give a soft diffused effect to the skin which makes it very flattering…”
One way to wear them is with a bralette underneath, or like in the second image, with a jacket over it — perfect for vacations or lounging at home.
Cortana’s swimwear also features watercolor prints. Although the fabric looks light and soft, it’s actually made from recycled nylon. The material quality isn’t the best, and overall, the brand doesn’t focus much on swimwear design.
Cortana currently offers two main shoe styles: one is the thick-soled leather sandals in the first and second rows, frequently featured in the official lookbook, and the other is the mule, available in both high and low heels. I personally prefer the sandals — they look so soft, like jelly.
As of now, Cortana doesn’t have a direct store in China, but some select stores in Shanghai collaborate with the brand. Additionally, the brand’s clothing is available on e-commerce platforms like Net-a-Porter.
Epilogue
Those who are passionate about watercolor are destined to carry a certain softness and elegance, and this is precisely the soul of Rosa and Cortana. The brand’s lookbook is enveloped in a hazy atmosphere, with subtlety and delicacy akin to watercolor washes. The lightness and fluidity of silk dresses exude a quiet elegance. That unintentional softness and refinement seem to speak of beauty distilled over time, evoking a sense of tranquility.
by: pamperherself
These photos were taken last week at Xishan National Forest Park. The misty feel was just right for this article, but it was so hot that my clothes were soaked through twice, even my underwear. I ended up not wearing anything underneath.
The coolest hike I’ve had in summer was four years ago when I was still in Sichuan, climbing Mount Qingcheng. The road leading up from Chengdu was lined with lush, dense trees — a deep, cool green that made you feel refreshed. I still remember the week I spent on the mountain, with frequent light rains keeping the roads almost always wet. The inn I stayed at faced the mountain, and I could see the mist rolling through. During that time, I read Alai’s Red Poppies in less than a week. It wasn’t a great read, and it turned out to be the last book by a Chinese author that I read.
