Khaite: Cool, Quirky, and Ethereal Style , 4-Year Runway Collection and 10 Classic Pieces

pamperherself
8 min readAug 8, 2024

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Khaite founded by Catherine Holstein in 2016, known for knitted cashmere and silk dresses

Like the founders of The Row, Catherine Holstein dislikes personal marketing amidst the proliferation of social media, personal IP, and self-promotion. She emphasizes offline experiences, even dimming the lights at shows to keep the focus on the runway.

Her Instagram account has only one photo. Her personality, like her brand, is understated with intriguing undertones.

I first became interested in this brand last year while browsing the shoe section at SKP, attracted by their ballet flats, rather than the cashmere knit cardigan and bralette popularized by Tom Cruise’s ex-wife Katie Holmes in 2019. That was the first time Khaite went mainstream, leading to its annual runway shows at New York Fashion Week.

Khaite, pronounced “Kate,” is derived from Greek, meaning “flowing hair.” The brand aims to be both feminine and masculine, strong yet soft, structured yet fluid.

“Each piece proposes a fresh balance of opposing elements — masculine and feminine, strength and softness, structure and fluidity — while embodying a signature sensuality and ease.”

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Catherine Holstein grew up between Southern California and London and attended the Parsons School of Design in New York.

In 2006, her sailor dress design caught the attention of Teen Vogue senior editor Kimball Hastings, leading to a recommendation and an order from Barneys New York. Catherine seized this opportunity to focus on the fashion industry.

She dropped out of school to establish her eponymous brand, which was picked up by 40 global retailers, including Lane Crawford, Louis Boston, and Saks Fifth Avenue. However, she closed the brand in 2009 and worked at GAP, Vera Wang, and Maiyet before founding Khaite in 2016.

No wonder she said she had experienced too many failures and failed upwards when she won the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2022.

Khaite is known for clean lines and simple designs, with quirky elements such as deep V-necks and oversized puff sleeves. Catherine values high-quality fabrics and excellent manufacturers over following trends, even in the quiet luxury movement.

“We are very specific with the use of our fabrics and the factories we work with to create the best possible product.” — Catherine Holstein in an ELLE 2023 Interview

In a 2020 interview with British Vogue, Catherine emphasized that 80% of a garment’s appeal lies in its fabric. Many customers come to Khaite for cashmere, georgette blouses, Japanese denim, and tulle eveningwear.

“I’m also very particular about my fabrics: I always say 80 per cent of the appeal of a garment is fabric to a customer, and people come to us for our cashmere, people come to us for tulle, and for the georgette blouses we just introduced, too. I don’t compromise in that way. I never go with a cheaper thing because when you buy cheap, you get cheap, and if you let things slide under the radar, the audience is smart and they will see it.”

Khaite’s clothing is also highly practical, designed to be worn multiple times a week.

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Khaite was founded in 2016 with financial support and strategic guidance from the TO C brand incubator Assembled Brands.

In August 2019, Katie Holmes popularized the brand’s cashmere knit cardigan and bra, boosting its visibility and transitioning from niche to mainstream. The brand gained further popularity with endorsements from Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, and Beyoncé.

That same year, a capsule collection with Net-A-Porter expanded Khaite’s inventory to include shoes and bags.

Khaite made its debut at New York Fashion Week in 2020.

In 2022, Khaite received investment from Stripes Group, used primarily for retail expansion.

Stripes Group also invests in A24 (film production and distribution), Erewhon (California organic health boutique supermarkets), and On Running, all of which have niche customer bases with cult followings.

In 2023, Khaite opened its first store in Soho, New York, followed by a second store in Seoul, both featuring an industrial dark style.

The New York store was designed by Catherine Holstein’s architect husband, Griffin Frazen, resembling a dim tomb with an indoor tree illuminated by a beam of light.

In 2023, Brigitte Klein became Khaite’s first CEO, introducing a kids’ line and eyewear line. Catherine Holstein remained as creative director, and sales revenue increased by 30%.

Future plans include expanding the bag line and seeking global store locations, with over 150 global retailers currently.

Khaite has consecutively won the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2022 and 2023.

Initially, Khaite’s clothes were produced mainly in Los Angeles, with cashmere and boots made in Italy. As the brand expanded globally, some tops are now produced in low-labor-cost European countries like Turkey.

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Khaite’s standout categories include knitwear, silk dresses, and shoes and bags.

The classic cashmere cardigan is available in colors like glaze, custard, and avocado.

Another popular item is the fitted wool knit bodysuit, which looks better in gray, as black can be too plain.

Basic cashmere sweaters with bouclé yarn.

Small cashmere cardigans.

Distinctive knitted cutout tank tops.

These off-shoulder tops are perfect for those with broad shoulders and collarbones. On the right is the cashmere bralette.

These three items are from past collections and are no longer available on Khaite’s official website, which currently features the Pre-Fall 2024 collection. Past collections can be found at other retailers.

Summer dresses are mostly 100% silk, known for their georgette and silk chiffon dresses. Winter dresses are made from wool or cashmere.

The dresses are usually ankle-length, better suited for taller individuals.

The toffee-colored dress below has two versions made from the same fabric. Personally, I find the back view more appealing than the front.

This year’s dress is quite basic. The top half looks ordinary, but the ankle-length and pleats make it unique.

Khaite’s dresses often have unusual cuts — peculiar yet refined and clean. Below are some standout pieces from the current collection on the official website.

Since Khaite’s rise in 2019, the brand has released resort collections from 2020 to 2025. These showcase Khaite’s design prowess.

I particularly love Khaite’s various white tops and skirts. Each year, the white pieces are different, with thoughtful designs in the neckline, sleeves, and waist.

The puff-sleeve dress was the most popular in 2024. Celebrities often wore this dress for magazine shoots.

My favorite piece from this year’s pre-fall collection is this top with butterfly-like pleats.

The hard, bubble-like silhouette continued into the AW2024 and Resort 2025 collections. The 2025 dresses feature georgette, organza, and silk, giving them an ethereal look.

The bubble girl trend, featuring puffed, structured skirts, is a variation of the [ballet core](https://mp.weixin.qq.com/sballet core trend, which features pleated mini skirts. Bubble girl skirts are more voluminous and structured.

Among all categories, suits, coats, and outerwear best embody the brand’s “strong” philosophy, often featuring square shoulder pads that create a broad shoulder effect. The coats are also long, exuding a powerful aura.

(The model’s hairstyle in the first image is something I’d like to try in the future.)

Since 2021, Khaite has incorporated sheer designs similar to those by Saint Laurent and even Zara. Little Red Book bloggers often pair these sheer pieces with underwear.

Another standout piece is the stirrup leggings, a tight-fitting legging with a foot strap.

A popular item is the Danielle Jeans, perfect for tall women with long legs, enhancing their leg shape.

My favorite shoes from the brand are the Marcy flats, made from tulle. The brand excels in tulle, offering six different patterns.

This year, Khaite introduced a snakeskin series, including bags carried by models in the 2024 Spring Summer collection.

I personally prefer the milder cream and beige tones. Even though I don’t wear high heels, I find these shoes exquisite.

Of course, the brand also offers classic black shoes and boots, a staple in the quiet luxury trend.

All these shoes are currently available on the official website.

Postscript

This article is image-heavy, given that the brand was founded in 2016. Compared to The Row, Toteme, By Malene Birger Khaite is relatively new, and its founder’s story is still unfolding, so there is less textual content.

Overall, Khaite’s designs are innovative and distinctive, with a strong emphasis on fabric quality. After learning more about Khaite, I plan to follow this brand more closely. Their garment quality has remained consistently high over the past three to four years.

by: pamperherself

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pamperherself

AI blogger, focusing on RAG, Prompt,Agentic Workflow. 📌 Share fashion brands , thoughts ,books or movies occasionally 📍 based in Beijing