Exploring Tablet & Backstrap Weaving Traditions
In the long human history, the art of textile creation weaves a narrative that spans centuries, dating back to the 6th century BCE. As we explore this rich heritage, the conventional image of interlaced warp and weft threads on traditional handlooms or power looms is just the beginning of a vast and fascinating world.
Textile surfaces are not merely the product of mechanical interlacement; they are the embodiment of human ingenuity and creativity. Beyond the rhythmic dance of threads on a loom, there exists a diverse array of techniques that have evolved, each telling a unique story of craftsmanship.
From the ancient elegance of tablet weaving and the resilient simplicity of sprang, where threads twist and turn to create elastic fabrics without the aid of a loom, to the intricate artistry of needle binding or nålebinding, predating even knitting and crochet — the realm of textile creation is a treasure trove of unconventional methods.
Tabet weaving
Tablet weaving, also known as card weaving, is an ancient textile technique utilizing small tablets or cards with corner holes. By threading these tablets with yarn and turning them in different directions, intricate patterns emerge in the woven fabric, with origins dating back thousands of years.
Throughout history, tablet weaving has left its mark on various cultures. Archaeological evidence showcases its presence in civilizations like the Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, and Vikings, where tablet-woven bands adorned clothing and held cultural significance. The Viking Age saw a notable surge in tablet weaving, with intricate bands used for both functional and decorative purposes.
Today, there’s a resurgence of interest in tablet weaving among contemporary artisans. Exploring traditional patterns and techniques, modern weavers infuse their artistic interpretations, connecting the craft to its rich historical roots.
small tablets or cards, typically square or rectangular with holes at the corners, are threaded with yarn. These tablets are then rotated in various combinations to create a shed through which a weft thread is passed, interlacing with the warp threads. The turning of the tablets controls the pattern by manipulating the position of the threads, resulting in intricate designs.
Backstrap weaving
Backstrap weaving involves a loom formed by attaching one end of the warp to a stationary object and the other to a strap worn around the weaver’s back. This method allows for intricate patterns and designs to be woven into the fabric.
Historically, backstrap weaving has deep roots in diverse cultures. Archaeological findings reveal its practice in ancient civilizations, with evidence in regions such as Mesoamerica, Asia, and the Andean cultures of South America. The versatility of backstrap weaving is evident in its use for creating textiles ranging from functional garments to ornate ceremonial pieces.
Abi Yangzom on her backstrap loom; her granddaughter Rinchen looks on. Rupshu, Changthang, 1992. (Photograph by Monisha Ahmed)
Getting hands-on
For my woven design module, I embarked on an exploration of unconventional weaving techniques. My chosen avenues of study include tablet weaving and backstrap weaving. As I delve into these techniques, I will share my journey of learning and discovery, detailing the challenges, insights, and creative possibilities that arise throughout the process. Join me on this exploration!
I started off by getting to know tablet weaving technique, reading blogs and articles by other tablet weavers, with the amount of overwhelming information I decided to follow a DIY tutorial to further understand the techniques
Back strap weaving
Earlier this week, I delved into the world of the backstrap weaving technique. I obtained the essential components of a backstrap loom from our discipline lead, Arnab Senapati. (Additionally, in collaboration with Hana Najeeb, who is also exploring this technique and crafting her own loom, we incorporated custom parts fashioned from twigs and branches.)
I opted for acrylic yarn to grasp the nuances of warping and set up an experimental warp. This approach allowed me to gain a better understanding of the technique.
I sandwiched the breast beam, cloth beam, and other dividers between mattresses to create my warping frame. ( juggad enough?! )
Challenges
Choosing cotton yarn for heddles resulted in the felting of acrylic wool, leading to tangling issues in the warps. The lessons learned include the importance of maintaining consistent warp tension, using the same material for heddles as the warp, and ensuring stable movement with a less twisted, non-stretchy yarn. These considerations will guide future attempts for a more successful weaving process.
Tablet weaving — number of cards used 12
Twisted Threads is a web-based application for designing, weaving, and sharing tablet weaving patterns which was a saviour in the entire tablet weaving exploration journey it also helped me connect with tablet weavers across the globe. The sample below is one of the tutorials that i followed from the same website
Backstrap attempt -3
making a narrow belt to have better tension and increase adjustability
Tablet weaving ( exploring double weave structures )
Backstrap circular warpping
Manual on D.I.Y Backstrap Weaving Setup
My fellow classmate, Hana and I delved into experimenting with backstrap weaving. Despite the absence of concise and credible online resources, we managed to learn the craft from scratch by piecing together information from various internet links. Our hands-on experience became our primary teacher in a lengthy but enriching process. We consolidated our insights to craft a comprehensive guide for anyone eager to embark on the journey of backstrap weaving.
Final warp