Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus special?

Tanoy Majumdar
6 min readJul 10, 2023

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Patek Philippe Nautilus, 5711/1A-011

Ready to take a journey through the world of luxury timepieces? Let’s start with one of the most coveted watches on the planet — the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-011. From its iconic design to its technical excellence, this watch embodies the true meaning of class and luxury. We take a deep dive into the history, significance, and beauty of the Nautilus 5711/1A-011. For the lucky few who might get their hands on the sought-after “Piano Dial” with Tiffany & Co. stamp, well, how many bodyguards do you plan to hire?

The Grail

Patek Philippe, a brand synonymous with ultra-luxury, exclusivity and perfection dates back to 1839 when it was established in Geneva. Over two centuries of history attached to the oldest watchmaker in the world, wearing a timepiece by them, is truly the epitome of luxury. A humble start as a pocket watch making business. Patek Philippe has over the years evolved into a manufacturer of sophisticated and complicated movement wristwatches.

The Nautilus is one of the most significant watches in modern history, and it gives Patek Philippe the character it truly deserves. The name of the watch was taken from the Jules Verne’s novel “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea” where Nautilus is the submariner used by Captain Nemo. It was a fortunate choice, although the new watch was not actually a professional diver. However, it did offer water resistance up to 120 meters, thanks to the particular structure of the case.

My first formal introduction to the world of luxury timepieces was actually, the “Gubelin” stamped 3700 Nautilus but, it was the 5711/1A-011 “Tiffany &Co.” stamped which took my breath away. But what about the mysterious “Gubelin” or “Tiffany & Co.” stamp? If you’re not a watch enthusiast, these names might not mean much to you. However, if you’re a collector or simply someone who appreciates timepieces, these stamps hold a world of significance.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus, 5711/1A-011 double stamped by Tiffany & Co. An exquisite  timepiece with almost a century of history.
The 5711 Nautilus with Tiffany & Co. stamp at the 6 o’ clock mark.
Picture Credits: Wrist Aficionado

A Brief History of Time

The name of the watch itself has decades of history attached but before we jump into the specifics, let’s delve into the history that makes this timepiece so unique and significant.

The first Nautilus from Patek Philippe, reference: 3700 was launched as a sports watch and the first of it’s kind bezel design. A true masterpiece by Gerald Genta
A 1978 Nautilus 3700 auctioned for CHF740,000 by Phillips.
Picture Credits: Phillips Auction House

The Nautilus, first introduced in 1976 with ref. 3700 was the costliest watch to be made out of steel. The watch had a particularly distinctive design with the bezel neither being round nor rectangular defying the typical watch design convention, rather an octagonal bezel with outward curves. The watch was designed by the renowned watchmaker Gerald Genta who not only contributed to the huge success of Patek Philippe but also designed the famous Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet.

The specialty of the watch in focus lies in the small stamp on the dial above 6 o’ clock which reads Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co.’s partnership with Patek Philippe began in 1851, when Antoine Norbert de Patek, seeking the world’s finest retailers for his exquisite timepieces, met Charles Lewis Tiffany at his store in New York. With a simple handshake, the jeweler and watchmaker established a relationship based on integrity and a commitment to excellence that endures to this day. The Tiffany & Co. double stamp watches are exclusively retailed at their 5th Avenue store in New York City which makes it close to impossible to get your hands at such a unique timepiece.

Pass Time Relevance

The 5711 Nautilus series was launched in 2006, celebrating 30 years of the 3700 variant. In my opinion the new series surpasses the excellence of its predecessor in terms of the design with a rounder bezel. The open caseback compliments the grail with added admiration for the craftmanship. The 5711 comes in many variations with the most popular being the 5711/1A-010 with a blue dial.

The “Piano Dial” is so limited that it is almost impossible to spot it on a wrist and with the coveted “Tiffany & Co.” stamp there is exactly 1 listing on Chrono24.com. The watch automatically becomes even more attractive with the rarity it boasts and you can only imagine what the exclusive club of the watch-owners would look like. I have had the opportunity to see the watch up-close and the photos don’t do justice to the timepiece (maybe I’m still learning photography).

Specs-tacular Beauty

The “Jumbo” Nautilus made a comeback with the reference 5711, which had a similar design to the previous model but several technical improvements, including an in-house self-winding movement caliber 324 S C that replaced the Jaeger-LeCoultre-based caliber used in the reference 3700. A sapphire caseback was also added to the redesigned Nautilus, allowing the wearer to see the in-house caliber in action. The case took on a somewhat rounder shape, and the bracelet was further improved. It is speculated that the white dials were only manufactured from 2012 to 2019. The hour indexes’ blackened gold frames wonderfully accent the dial’s most enticing feature, the famous Tiffany & Co. stamp located above 6 o’clock.

The in-house movement from Patek Philippe. The 324SC caliber powers the Nautilus along with other notable timepieces from Patek Philippe.
324 SC Caliber with a 45hr power reserve.
Picture Credits: Monochrome Watches

Passing Facts

Now, maybe you start seeing a pattern in these reference numbers and you are right but keep in mind, every watchmaker has their own style. For Patek, the first four digit acts the identifier for the model, followed by, the case material which is steel in this case and finally, the last 3 digits tell you about the color of the dial.

A simple diagram to decode reference numbers from Patek Philippe. Each watchmaker follows a unique pattern for their timepieces.
Breakdown of the reference number for Patek Philippe.

For example, the 5711/1R-001 is a Nautilus with a rose gold case and a brown dial. Through these series of blogs we will try to breakdown more reference numbers and some facts about these timepieces which make them so special, at least in my view.

The End

The beautiful timepiece by the watchmaker makes it a must have for any collector or watch enthusiast but, it is only a select few who could get access to the watch and also pay the price. Arguably the most famous watch on the planet, legend has it that the waiting period for the watch would be as long as eight years. The watch retailed at around US$33,000 but the performance in the grey market (secondary market) paints the real picture of how sought-after this watch is.

The production of the 5711 was discontinued in 2021 and the grey market is the only way to get your hands on it. In my opinion, the Nautilus 5711/1A-011 with the “Piano Dial” and Tiffany & Co. stamp is one of the most beautiful timepieces in the world. As a watch enthusiast, I am constantly in awe of its sleek and sophisticated design, and as someone who appreciates luxury, I am amazed by its value in the secondary market. But, to me, this watch holds a special place in my heart because it represents the culmination of my journey into the world of luxury timepieces. It was the watch that made me fall in love with Patek Philippe, and it will always be my ultimate grail.

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