Fixing Cross-cut Fence Install and Alignment for Sliding Table Attachment
Mikko Mononen

Very fine video of a sliding saw attachment, exhibiting a problem that is quite common. Many are complaining about what your fine video is about.

I have had the dilemma since I bought mine. As you say, a number of different distributors are selling this same slider, under different names and at a myriad of different prices. The best price I know of now, is Grizzly and Amazon. A different model by “SawStop” is way over-designed and its cost is prohibitive to most woodworkers; in that it often costs more than the table saw itself. Few have bought it.

I will add this (I have posted it before):

NOT all of the problem in our sliders is real. Some of it is in woodworkers not realizing how the miter gauge on a slider is designed to work. IE: on a non-slider, the miter gauge does all the “sliding” to move the wood past the spinning blade. Thus play in its movement is a problem.

But on a slider, the miter gauge is affixed to the slider and it is the slider that moves the wood past the blade. It is here where many are not aware of how the miter bar and miter readout is designed on this model.

In other words, the “slop” plays no bearing on accuracy once the miter bar is locked to the miter slot. Where this miter gauge failed was not because it had slop; rather it was because it was missing a crucial set of parts.

You mentioned that the Hammer K-3 has two set of “stops” to lock the gauge in place at 90 degrees. You correctly used a photo from the K-3 documentation. These parts (and similar parts) are MANDATORY on just about every sliding table; from the cheapest all the way up to sliders made by Felder, Martin and SCM.

Get this, the Hammer version has a MAJOR design error in it. They have now rectified that. The error was in the eccentric part of one of the 90 degree stops, that would NOT stay fixed no matter how tight the set screw was fastened.

The following clearly shows this:

My point is this: IF the manufacturer of our sliders, had USED “fixed” stops for the miter gauge; MOST of the complaints would not have been. BUT….

For those who do not understand the above; they would STILL complain. Reason being is they want the gauge to be like all of their old gauges. This is not needed when you have a slider.

I love your modifications. But in my case they are not necessary. Here is why: I added the two fixed stops for quickly locking the gauge at 90 degrees; AND using the original bar locks. Like you correctly say, one with a set screw, the other is a knurled knob. This means that EVERY time I remove it, and reinstall it now, it goes right back to 90 degrees dead on.

Now…..other than 90 degrees are still a problem. But really, almost all gauges had this problem since table saws were invented. Since, I have an Incra 3000, I am going to modify it so that it will be compatible with the 2 fixed stops I have installed on my slider; And I will lock the Incra’s miter bar into the track, using one set screw that I will install in the miter bar. Then I will not have the problem of any other angle up to .5 degree, since its adjusting knob will not interfere with the bar’s movement or fixed position.

(I don’t really think I need the set screw in the miter bar; but I am doing it just in case. Time will tell.)

For what ever its worth. Thanks a million for your great article and awesome photos and videos. I am putting it in my special folder.

May Jesus richly bless you for your knowledge and good deeds dear person.


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