The Great City, Il-Belt Valletta
“Belt Stampa ta’ Niesa”. Which is to say that a city is but an illustration of its people’s lives. And if, as Maria Zammit believed, this is true, then the people of Valletta in Malta must have a great story to tell. In this article, we will skim through the life of one citizen of this grand city and the sights that shared in the most important moments of her life. We will explore how her story and that of her city danced with each other for over a hundred years.
The Sacra Infermeria
https://goo.gl/maps/SFkAtjJCqnkWrf9K8?coh=178573&entry=tt
Maria Zammit was born to Rocco and Anna in May 1918, only 10 months after they were married, as was a common occurrence in those days. To give you some context, at the time, Malta was a British crown colony. A year later, in 1919 the ‘sette giugno’ uprisings over the excessive price of bread took place, during which four civilians were gunned down by British forces. Additionally, 1919 was just one year after the end of the First World War, and Malta, like the rest of Europe, was heavily affected. Let’s say it was not an easy time for the island and its people.
Maria was one of the last people to be born in the “Sacra Infermeria.” This large building was built by the Knights of Malta as a hospital in the 16th century and has undergone many modifications over the years. It was considered one of Europe’s most advanced hospitals until the 1700s and could care for up to 1000 patients at a time. The exceptional care was exemplified by the fact that patients would dine with silverware solely due to its antimicrobial properties. It’s remarkable to think that the building was originally constructed to house and treat pilgrims to the Holy Land and was eventually used to treat soldiers of the Napoleonic Wars, the Crimean War, and the First World War, during which time Malta became known as the nurse of the Mediterranean. The largest ward, 155m in length, known as “the great ward,” was once the largest ward in all of Europe.
The Sacra Infermeria ceased functioning as a hospital shortly after the First World War, and the building is now used as a theater or conference hall. Today, the Sacra Infermeria offers visitors a self-guided tour using augmented reality, which you may be interested in checking out during a future visit.
Basilica of Saint Dominic and Porto Salvo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vOz0EbaJ14&t=330s
Maria was baptized in the Basilica of Saint Dominic. Three years later, Maria’s younger brother was born, and during his baptism, also in the church behind us, it was prophesied that he would become a member of the Order of St. Dominic. Such prophecies were not uncommon, as it was customary for the first-born son to join the priesthood. This prophecy was indeed fulfilled in 1938 when he was ordained by Archbishop Gonzi in the cathedral in Mdina, following many years of studies in the convent of the Dominicans in Rabat. Back then, priests and monks were among the most learned people in society. In 1923, Rachele gave birth to twins, Agnes and Anthony. Agnes tragically passed away at their home in Strait Street at the tender age of two, while Anthony, affectionately known as Tony, went on to live another 95 years and passed away in Toronto. But we will delve more into the story of these twins later.
This is one of the three parish churches of Valletta and the site of baptisms, weddings, and funerals for generations past and future of Maria Zammit. The church is, in fact, a Basilica, one of two in Valletta, and the first church to be elevated to the dignity of a minor basilica in Malta. The other basilica in Valletta is the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (the church with the big dome that dominates the Valletta skyline). Interestingly, you will notice that slightly shorter than the dome is the spire of the Cathedral of Saint Paul’s Anglican Cathedral, which used to dominate the Valletta skyline. The Roman Catholics wanted to ensure that their new church would rise higher than that of the Anglican church.
The parish of Saint Dominic and Porto Salvo was established on the 2nd of July 1571 by Pope Pius V, himself a Dominican friar. Pope Pius V is also considered one of the main benefactors of the construction of Valletta. The new church was dedicated to Our Lady of Safe Haven due to the number of seafarers who would visit an old chapel in that spot to thank the Virgin Mary for their safe travels at sea. At the time of its construction, the parish of St. Dominic became the main parish church of Valletta.
The church experienced structural faults after a series of earthquakes in 1693, and further damage was caused by heavy rainfall and gale-force winds in 1757. Consequently, the church was closed and declared unsafe on the 24th of July 1780. A new church was then built on the same site as the original, 25 years after the original one was closed. The new church was opened on the 15th of May 1815 and elevated to the dignity of a Minor Basilica on the 25th of March 1816. It became the first Basilica of many in Malta. The damage suffered by many buildings in Malta and Sicily during the earthquake of 1693 explains why much of Valletta is built in the Baroque style of the time, and it is understandable to mistake the streets of Noto in Sicily for those of Valletta in Malta.
Inside the church, in the vault and apse of one of the transept chapels, you will find two works by the renowned Maltese artist Giuseppe Cali. One depicts the crowning of Our Lady, and the other portrays the intercession of the Virgin Mary by Pope Pius V himself at the Battle of Lepanto. This epic sea battle involved the Knights of Malta extensively. These were Cali’s first paintings for the Dominicans, and his work pleased them enough to allow him to paint the rest of the ceiling.
Strait Street
As the name implies, this is the narrowest street in the city. At its narrowest part, it is possible to touch both sides with outstretched arms. It was a bustling hub of activity, particularly during the British colonial era in the 19th and early 20th century when Malta served as an important naval base. The street was lined with numerous bars, clubs, theaters, and entertainment venues, earning it the reputation of being “The Gut” or “The Gut of Valletta.” It was a popular destination for British servicemen, sailors, and locals alike, offering a vibrant nightlife scene.
For twenty years, Strada Stretta, as it was known by the locals, served as the address for the Zammit family. It was in their small house on this street that Baby Agnes passed away at the age of two and would be left in the home for visitation by grieving relatives. The Zammit family would be forced to move several times during the war, spending a lot of time in a number of different bomb shelters around the city. Valletta and the neighboring port area would become the most heavily bombed place on earth during World War II.
Strait Street was known for its lively atmosphere, music, dancing, and a variety of entertainment options. It was frequented by people from different walks of life, including sailors, merchants, artists, and prostitutes. The street had a reputation for being a bit rough around the edges and was sometimes associated with a seedy side. However, this would all change in the second half of the 20th century with the departure of the British forces. The lights of Strait Street would slowly be turned off, and the lively noises would become nothing but isolated wails of a dying era.
Dar L-Emmigrant
Right next to Barrakka Gardens, Dar l-Emigrant, also known as the Emigrants’ House, is a historic building located in Valletta, Malta. It holds significant cultural value as a tribute to Maltese emigrants who left their homeland in pursuit of a better life in other countries, particularly during the 19th and 20th centuries. It is here that Maria’s brother, Anthony, would have made his final stop before emigrating to the United States in search of a better life than that of war torn Malta.
The building served as a hostel or shelter for emigrants, providing them with temporary accommodation, support, and assistance. It acted as a place where individuals and families would stay while awaiting their departure to various destinations, including Australia, Canada, the United States, or other countries where they sought new opportunities.
Today, Dar l-Emigrant has been transformed into a museum and cultural center, preserving the memories and narratives of Maltese emigrants. The museum exhibits artifacts, photographs, personal belongings, and documents related to the emigration experience. It offers valuable insights into the challenges, aspirations, and dreams of the Maltese people who ventured abroad in search of a brighter future.
Parliament Building
Close to Dar L-Emigrant, one can find the impressive Parliament building, which was designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano and opened in 2015, coinciding with Maria Zammit’s 97th birthday. The Parliament building stands as a symbol of Valletta’s revitalization after years of neglect. Witnessing the city come back to life brought immense joy to Maria and many residents of this magnificent city. While residents of Valletta may come and go, they forever leave their mark on the city’s very fabric. Maria went on to live another 5 years, becoming the oldest resident of Valletta before peacefully passing away at the remarkable age of 102.
