20 years ago I hiked the Inca trail into Machu Picchu, completely soaked to the skin, having camped two nights out on the top of the Andes in rain and fog. I remember walking through the gate and desceding into it and being amazed and awe struck. That was at dawn and the feeling lasted until the bus loads of tourists arrived at 11am. Those were the days before selfies and selfie sticks.