Weeknotes #05–7August

Peter Jordan
Aug 22, 2017 · 4 min read

Still in Marseille.

MONDAY

Used Marseille’s Vélo system. A bargain — 1€ for seven days, with the first thirty minutes’ free each time. To the Vieux Port by bike and métro to book a boat trip. Later I cycled around the Panier district. Had a look at the graffiti and then a restful time at la Vieille Charité. The museums were closed, but it was a pleasure to wander the arcades.

Vieille Charité

Later I met the rest of the family for a boat trip ‘L’essential des Calanques’. Over two hours at sea as far as the Calanque de Sugiton.

Calanque de Sormiou

TUESDAY

To the Cité Radieuse. One of Le Corbusiers’s most famous works, it proved enormously influential and is often cited as the initial inspiration of the Brutalist architectural style and philosophy. I’ve visited on a previous trip to Marseille, but returned with the family this time. Unfortunately, I had to interpret, which mean missing out on some of the commentary.

South face of the Cité Radieuse

Whilst Brutalist architecture has a bad rap, Le Corbusier designed this building with such care — from its orientation and colours down to details in the kitchen.

Later in the day, I took the bus north to L’Estaque. Still part of the city of Marseille, the ‘village’ has an amazing setting looking south over the bay of Marseille. L’Estaque is known as the birthplace of modern painting, Artists kept coming for 60 years (1860–1920): Cézanne and Braque but also Derain, Dufy, Marquet, Friesz, Macke, Renoir, Guigou and Monticelli also played a role. However, L’Estaque was also a busy industrial location with tile and cement factories.

View across the Baie de Marseille from Chemin de Nerthe, L’Estaque

Today, the views are fantastic, but the place isn’t picturesque. I climbed up the Chemin de Nerthe into the hills behind and found abandoned buildings dumped cars and big grafitti.

WEDNESDAY

Set off early with son and took the bus to the terminus at Les Baumettes, with a plan to walk in the Parc national des Calanques to the Calanque de Sormiou. We just got in our stride; but were turned back as the whole park was closed because of the Mistral and the fire risk.

Waiting for the bus back, I got into conversation with a charming lady of 85 who had lived in the area 30 years.

So back to the house and then to the beach.

A busy afternoon, though. Son and I climbed to Notre Dame de la Garde and then walked to Cours Julien to meet wife and daughter. An elongated square with a métro station, shady palm trees and a fountains, it has interesting bars and cafes, The side streets and the west facing stairs have yet more graffiti.

Graffiti on Rue Pastoret, near Cours Julien

Finally, we went down to the Vieux Port and went on the big wheel.

THURSDAY

Departure day, but not till mid afternoon. I debated getting the bus to Les Goudes, Calanques; but it was grey and windy with the Mistral. So I headed into the city, returning to Cours Julien for breakfast and then a visit to the fascinating Musée du Vieux Marseille , via Maison Empereur, the oldest hardware store in the city. The Musée is definitely worth a visit; but there is a heavy concentration on some stunning exhibits from the ancient world and less on early modern times.

Maison Empereur, the oldest hardware store in Marseille

Metro back to Rond-Point du Prado and then I tried to borrow a bike. Unfortunately, I couldn’t remove it from the stand; but the Vélo system said I had the bike. I got the bus back home and rang the helpline. They were helpful — but said I had to go back and try to dock the bike — I should have phoned from the bike station :). This resulted in me running the back to Rond-Point du Prado since no bus appeared. Docked the bike. Phew. Back to the house just in time for a frantic pack and check.http://www.levelo-mpm.fr/

The taxi driver ripped us off a bit, but took us on a scenic route along the corniche and the tunnel under the Vieux Port to St Charles Station.

We caught the 15:22 to St Pancras. The prize let us return in Standard Premier. Seating, space and above all the snacks and meals made it very agreeable. However, the enforced detraining at Lille Europe with all the luggage for security and French and British passport control is painful.

We got home about after midnight, with the final leg on a full and standing South West Trains service.

FRIDAY

A restful day, after a rather full-on week.

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Peter Jordan

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Digital professional. Findability, analytics, search, content strategy, user needs, metadata, social. Work for government & use South West Trains a lot

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