As a student of the culinary arts, I strongly believe that the Indian cuisine is misrepresented within restaurants in India and around the world. The Indian cuisine has been “North Indianised” to Biryanis, Butter chicken and Dal makhani. However, when you come to India and travel or stay here. There are 29 different states with each its own traditions and topography. If you go 100 miles in any of the directions, you will find a different language, religion and culinary custom. The food experiences in each of these regions differ based on their landscape, climate and historic immigration patterns, spices, trade routes and influence from religion and rulers. India being the 7th largest country by land mass, there is a diversity of more than nine religions that influence the food and eating habits. In this blog, we take a dive down south into the region’s history, traditional dishes with help of experts from the region.
The cuisine of South India encompasses regions and states of Tamil Nadu,Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Kerala. These regions are dramatically different from those dry deserts of northern India. Every region in south india has a different cuisine. Still, the majority of indians and people living outside India associate the cuisine with filter coffee, idli, dosa, sambar and chutney. Well, have you heard of “God’s own Country? Yes, God’s own country — Kerala. Ample of coconuts, rice, tapioca and spices like cinnamon, cloves, ginger and black pepper. It also features a variety of seafood owing to the state’s long coastline. The most well-known cuisine of Kerala is the Malabar Cuisine.The cuisine is influenced by the three prominent religions in the state. Hinduism, Christianity and Islam that have molded the flavor profile through their decadent recipes from generations. These flavors range from ‘Sadhya’, a lavish feast having 27 to 30 dishes in a meal, through the scrumptious Fish Moilee and the Appam with Ishtu.
The insights of this blog were brought to you by Ramzan Shiras, he is from the beautiful city of houseboats ‘Alleppey’ in the state of Kerala. His love for food as a kid initiated by his grandmother and mother in the kitchen, made him pursue culinary arts from IHMA — Aurangabad and Zealand Business College Denmark. He wants to bring the Malabar cuisine and flavors from ‘Venice of the east’ on the culinary map and has shared some of his favorite recipes with us. He tells us how his childhood was filled with lip smacking fish curries from his grandmother,to his mother’s and aunt’s mouth watering snacks. There hasn’t been a year when his family did not celebrate ‘Onam’ without the feast of Sadhya. It was more than a meal, it was an emotion of togetherness. He says, “ I used to hallucinate a Sadhya in front of me while Fasting, but I would always control myself. The time during the fasting tests your patience and belief simultaneously”. There is no better sacrifice than to look at the enticing snacks in front of you and not have it. Finally the long period of Ramadan is concluded with the celebration of Eid-ul-Fitr.
Chicken Ishtu and Kallappam
Calicut was always a food destination for Shiras and family. His memories of Calicut are of waking up early in the morning just to have sumptuous chicken stew and appams. Sometimes even flaky “parathas” with fish curry. ”Fish curry for breakfast?” He tells us, it can’t be explained unless it’s experienced. Even though Appam and Stew are loved by the locals. The story dates back to the time Jews migrated in India, who brought the recipe and made it a staple of the state. The recipe was so simple that it didn’t take much long to be adapted by households. A batter made with just coconut and rice. The batter was traditionally fermented with toddy (an alcoholic beverage from the sap of coconut), hence the name “Kallappam” where “Kallu” means toddy. But as it wasn’t readily available in houses, cooks started using yeast for the fermentation. Therefore they made it even easier in preparation without the use of a Kadhai.
Kozhi Ada (Fried Chicken Dumpling)
Kozhi Ada is one of the most popular snacks from Northern Malabar households. These fried dumplings are more commonly made during the holy month of Ramzan. Shiras talks about how often his grandmother and mother make it during that time because it is very quick and easy to make, and just like samosas, are loved by everyone.
Paripppu Payasam (Dal)
Payasam is a type of kheer,also made with Dal, very commonly made on Onam in Kerala. Onam can’t even be imagined without ‘Sadhya’ and Payasam to end the feast on a sweet note. Payasam is also considered as a staple Hindu temple food and an offering to Lord Shiva and Krishna. Shiras tells us how as a child he wasn’t fond of sweets, but everything changed on Onam Sadhya, when his mother fed him Parippu Payasam. He also adds on how his father is a dessert specialist and makes the best Payasam or kheer.
