The Paradox that is Portugal- Religious but Progressive. A Peek into an Interesting Lifestyle
While I always enjoy visiting the tourist points of interest in the foreign lands I visit, what I truly appreciate is observing and experiencing the different socio-cultural lifestyle in these places. I am fascinated by both the subtle and not so subtle nuances that differentiate cultures while also noting the similarities that remind us that at the end of the day, human nature is the same all over the world.
For instance, it is interesting how Portugal culture seems so akin to my Indian culture. The same emphasis on family as in the kids living with parents way past their adulthood and similar type of social interactions where personal boundaries don’t really matter. Upon my arrival, I met this extremely nice lady who within a few minutes of our introduction asked me how old I was. Taken aback, I felt I was transported back to my neighborhood in Delhi where such queries are routine and only indicative of a desire to know someone really well. So, of course, I didn’t take it amiss. Rather I was amused though not too happy to broadcast my age being still in the denial stage.
Portuguese culture is very family-oriented and family gatherings are large and relatively more frequent. This is a picture of a Mother’s Day celebration where along with the immediate family of kids and their spouses, aunts, uncles, and cousins celebrated together with gusto in a restaurant with music and dance!
Portuguese folks seem relatively laid back with a very warm and inviting attitude. Their sense of hospitality is again akin to my own culture. Unfortunately, like folks in my erstwhile homeland, India, the Portuguese also show lack of civic sense in certain aspects like speeding in residential streets, not picking up after their dogs and worse allowing them to run unleashed in public areas without any real consequences. It seems that this lack of implementation of certain laws and rules is symptomatic of not wholly efficient local governments and a developing society. And finally again like India, Portugal seemed to have the same kind of socio-economic setup- a considerable gap between the rich and the poor. One noticed many immigrants from Eastern Europe and from Portugal’s former colonies like Brazil who were performing very basic jobs at pretty low wages. I guess due to the overall good quality of life in that country, the inherent problems due to the vast economic inequality in income distribution are not immediately evident but do exist- make no mistake about that! Pickpockets and mugging, problems symptomatic of extreme economic disparity are all too common.
Portugal has become a land of immigrants apparently as one saw many small businesses set up by the immigrants including from India as shown in the first picture. Tourism is a big industry resulting in small gift shops in popular areas where locals and many gypsies tout their wares. I am standing with one proud gypsy or Romani lady. (Gypsies with their distinct culture are a n integral part of the Portuguese social setup) Needless to say, I felt right at home as price-haggling is a given in these situations- almost Indian style!
Nonetheless, Portugal has a lot to offer. The wonderful Mediterranean climate makes for an active lifestyle. The people are fit and tend to walk to most local places, the emphasis being on freshly prepared meals, three times a day- just like home! My Portuguese friends take their meals very seriously and as my Portuguese host explained — meals are very “personal” to them as in taking their time to savor their food. No grabbing a bite and rushing out the door!
Given that fishery is an important industry, seafood is their core food, but interestingly they also eat a lot of pork similar to beef in the US. Junk food is not as rampant as in the US where one finds McDonalds around every corner. Not so here. I saw only a handful of Mickey Ds in the three weeks I was there. So not surprisingly, obesity is not an issue there. And like wine, they love their coffee anytime, anywhere!
Home-cooked shrimp stew made with fresh vegetables. Meals are freshly prepared both at home and outside. Even the fries are freshly cut and cooked unlike the frozen fare we get in the US.
Additionally, while there are single family homes mostly old that have thankfully preserved their historic heritage, most people live in apartments again in mainly older buildings with vivid colorful facades decorated with beautiful glazed tiles and wrought iron balconies with scroll patterns reminiscent of their Moor heritage.
The colorful facades of the buildings with beautiful wrought iron balconies and glazed ceramic tiles for decoration are the norm in Portugal. The effect is stunning and reminiscent of their rich heritage- an interesting amalgam of various art styles going back to the days of the Moors. The topmost picture shows the home of a member of the Portuguese elite class that lost its power with Portugal’s transition to full democracy with the Revolution of 1974.
Unfortunate graffiti is a major problem in Portugal as handsome buildings are marred by ugly scribblings and drawings on them. I am more intrigued as to when the culprits get the opportunity to make such an intricate mess on the walls. I guess it again boils down to inefficiency or the lackadaisical attitude of the local authorities. Of course, some graffiti was actually a work of art by some unsung artists craving appreciation — just in the wrong places.
This graffiti is really a sad situation and it seems that the public has become desensitized to this problem as they seemed to show no reaction to the mess ruining the walls and buildings in many nice areas…
Interestingly, most sidewalks in Portugal are paved with cobbled stones often in intricate patterns adding a lot of charm to pedestrian walkways. But though aesthetically appealing, they are tricky for walking and downright slippery and dangerous when wet, though it hasn’t stopped some fashionistas from walking down in stilettos and not breaking their necks. Certainly. a sight not to be missed!
Note the difference, above two ladies wearing sensible shoes as those cobblestones can be pretty treacherous especially if wet and below the young lady walking briskly on stilettos. Fashion wins here as is often the case!
Religious faith plays a critical role in the life of most Portuguese. Believe me, if I any doubts they were quashed immediately when I was woken up in the early hours during my jet lag by the ringing of the neighborhood church bells on an hourly basis until late evening when they stopped for the day. This impression was further confirmed when I noticed the presence of churches in most neighborhoods along with the statues and images of Jesus and the Virgin Mary in restaurants, homes and many public places. But what I find incredibly thought-provoking about Portugal is the fact that for a country that has a staunchly Roman Catholic populace which is very serious about its faith, the country is also very progressive.
The strong Roman Catholic faith of the Portuguese is evident from the location of neighborhood churches like the one in the first picture and the historic churches like the one I saw in Lisbon in the second picture. Even some restaurants have scenes from the Last Supper as shown above in the wall mural and the table mats. Yes, religion is an integral part of their daily life.
Drugs are decriminalized and prostitution is legal. I was amused as to how the older devout folks reading the newspapers hurriedly jumped past the pages where the women are prostituting their services. It was all very matter of fact. Similarly, abortion was legalized in 2007. In other words, religion is personal and doesn’t infringe on individual choices which is the way it should be. This can be a lesson for countries that while claiming to be secular impose their religious views on non-believers. Portugal on the other hand with a strong tradition of the powerful Catholic church has been truly able to separate the Church from the State and humanize its religion by liberalizing its society in more ways than one. Indeed, Portugal is a paradox in some of the best ways possible and worthy of emulation.
Originally published at http://rbksrealm.com on May 20, 2019.
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