Rob’s Guide to Porto for Nos Primavera Sound
Having been to the city a lot both for the festival and other holidays I get asked for Porto tips more than you might suspect. So thought I’d capture it here for posterity/save my fingers some work every year.
This is far from exhaustive. In total I’ve spent over a month in Porto and this is just what I can remember. Eat and drink everything — this is merely the stuff I can remember going into. If you pass something and it looks cool, pop in. Porto people are cool af and very lovely.
Brief festival tips — a cab from the city to the festival is around 8 euro. There’s a nightbus that leaves every 5 mins at the end back into the city — you pay with your adente card. It drops you by the McDonalds with the Nazi looking eagle on Av de Aliados. The toilets and food area get crazy busy when an act on the biggest stage finishes — lots of people just watch them. Pre drinking there’s a nice bar on the beach by the park, though it is the Atlantic coast so it’s super windy.
Restaurants
Yeatman
Probably out of the budget of most festival goers, but I feel it would be remiss to exclude it. I ate their last year on my honeymoon and can say that Michellin star is well earned. Unbelievable and incredibly inventive food (being served gravy cooked to look like tawny port served from a port bottle into a port glass the one that sticks in the memory) with next level service. Wine pairing is essential (I still dream about the Churchill’s 10 year old white port good god.)
Postigo Do Calvho
When I first saw this place, I thought it was a bit of a tourist trap. It is, however the food is tasty, the portions are enormous and the house wine is pretty damn good. It is also pretty farcically cheap. The caveat; the staff are utterly bizarre — the roasted sausage starter (a must — the first time I went I accidentally chose cabbage soup what a chump) was announced with the proclamation “I will now set fire to the table”. It’s also open on Sundays and Mondays when much in Porto is not.
Cafe Santiago
I have sampled widely for you and can tell you this is *the* place for a Francesinha in Porto. Get the one with the fried egg and chips, a fino of superbock and let rip.
Camefu
Delightful place we went to last year where it’s on the first floor and is basically a restaurant in someone’s living room. Classic portuguese dishes, good wine list, excellent matched ports with dessert.
Tasco
Portuguese tapas place (so bigger portions that Spanish style) with friendly service and strangely enough Interpol lyrics on the top of the menu. Recommend the seafood rice.
O Paprico
Again, to flag this is pretty expensive. It’s a cab ride out of the centre, and you need to book. They’ve been after a Michelin star for a while now but keep falling short. You basically arrive at a house, and knock on the door. The restaurant is the hollowed out interior of the house. Food is exceptional, though the mains are for two to share so better if you go with more people. They also have a page of gintonicos on the menu — mine came in a pint glass. Wonderful.
Conga
Sandwich shop just off Av. de Aliasdos. They do roast pork baguettes dipped in spicy gravy. Mama. A must.
A Grade
Tiny restaurant that is also seemingly never open, but worth a booking for their huge portions that could be shared to be honest, and the owner will often crack out some aguadiente and leave it on the table with you. Proper old school portuguese cuisine
Verso Em Pedra
Francesinha joint which is ok, but does a huge range of them, but more expensive than others. I had an Exotic, which had chilli and cherry tomatoes on top arrange like a cock and balls. Also do a 35 euro one that you win a guitar if you finish. Good if you like watching Brazilian soap operas while you eat
O Commercial
Food is no great shakes but pretty cheap (like 20 euro for 3 courses) but is in the old Stock Exchange Building so is an amazing venue to eat in
Venhaim Mais 5
“Pleased note sir, the meat in our sandwiches is…..almost raw”. Does a range of things, but you want the prego sandwiches with soft cheese and steak cooked blue. The name of the place is “bring 5 more” which I can attest is an accurate name
Casa Guedes
Amazing place that roasts legs of pork and carves it into sandwiches with soft cheese. Often during the festival they close the shop and decant to the festival food court so get in early as the queues are often huge
Casa Santo Antonio
I used to be in love with this place but the last time I went it was substandard. Maybe better to try and get into the original venue near the university. Tapas place where they just keep bringing food until you say stop. About 18 euro a person.
Bom Successo Market
Near Casa de Musica, there’s a rebuilt market that has all kinds of food places (including a small branch of Casa Santo Antonio and a sliders place) and a cool gin bar
Rua De Miguel Bombarda
This street is well worth a visit for three reasons. First it’s full of tiny independent art galleries. Secondly there’s a nice looking burger joint. Third is Rota de Cha — a tea place with a lovely outside area. Great space to enjoy the weather and relax on a bean bag drinking some wanky tea.
Pedro Dos Frangos
HOUSE OF CHICKEN. With a Primavera festival, there is a high chance at some point you are going to be hungover or very tired. That is what Pedro Dos Frangos is for. With two branches opposite each other, you come in, get loads of spitroasted chicken and chips and feel better about the world.
Reitoria
Super nice steak place with a price tag to match. Only open in the evenings
Café Ancôra D’ouro
An institution in Porto for students. Good if you want you meal inside of 10 minutes and don’t want to pay more than 8 euro.
LSD
Slightly fancy place on the way down to the Riberia. Nice food, maybe a touch expensive, but they has some wicked Vinho Verde on the menu. Waiters bizarrely all wear matching grey dungarees
Bars
Drinking in Porto — these are a selection of my faves but basically drop in anywhere, everyone is lovely. A rule of thumb is that the closer to the Riberia you are the more expensive your drinks will be. Everything is cheapest in Clerigos.
Beer = SUPER BOCK. If the place is serving Sagres leave immediately in disgust. It comes in finos (33cl around a euro-1.50) caneca (50cl around 2.50) or garrafa (bottle) if you ask for a beer you’ll get a fino. Canecas at the festival are E3.40
Wine — most common red is Duoro which is made using the leftover grapes from port making. As such it’s dark and fruity. I love it. Douro white however is nothing to shout about. There is however Vinho Verde (green wine) which is made with really young grapes which has a light effervescence. Recommended, especially when it’s hot.
Gintonicos are obviously a given, but from the burnt fingers of personal experience if you go off piste ordering a non house gin, you’ll get a shock with the bill. Gin is popular in Porto and most places will have loads
Botequim
Nicest place on the Riberia I reckon, run by some nice Brazilian lads. Do white sangria made with cava.
Galeria de Paris
The centre of the Clerigos area, three parallel streets of pretty much nothing but bars. Worth a wander and a mooch and night. A personal fave is one that looks a bit like a library and always have a ready stash of tremoços
Candelabro
Love this place, though it can get very busy. It looks like a bookshop, and has lovely staff and is bloody cheap.
Adega Leonor
Ah Adega Leonor. This place could very well be crap. You could go here and say “What on earth was Rob chatting about?”. But it holds a special place in my heart. It’s on the square by the university. It is in essence a small room (I’ve only managed to get inside a couple of times) where everyone drinks in the square outside (and often pisses — watch your step in the gardens!). It serves litres of Super Bock and Sangria, usually with some crazy deal like BOGOF that makes them about 1.50 a pop. When it gets too busy to get inside they set up some taps outside to make sure everyone is suitably oiled. Well worth at least one late night visit. Ladies might not like it though — there is always a huge queue for their single, awful toilet. And save your change — the pay toilet nearby hasn't worked in any of my 5 trips to the city.
ERA UMA VEZ NO PORTO
This is a place upstairs near the Harry Potter bookshop. It’s name is Once Upon A Time in Porto. It’s dark and dingy but the windows opening onto the square give it a funny charm. I like it there but imagine it could become horrible if heaving
Port Caves
There’s so many to chose from here is my precis
Grahams — The best. Pay slightly more for the good tasting and you get to sit in a special room full of Churchill memorabilia
Sandeman’s — Easiest to get to, tour is ok, but port isn’t the best, tours are infrequent
Taylor’s — Perfect for some colonial grandeur with peacocks strutting about and the like
Koepke’s — ok as you don’t have to do a tour
Vinologica — Not a cave but a bar run by two french blokes who do awesome tastings of independent quintas’ port
Have fun! Obrigado!
