Old Snowy — Moody Weather Edition
My luck when it comes to hiking with companions is suspiciously bad. At least half the time when I am with a friend or leading a group, the weather is downright dismal. This happens with such regularity that my friend Amelia believes it is our bad luck as friends that every time we hike together, heavy precipitation is inevitable. Our last three weeks hiking together in Washington to finish our Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikes definitely supports this theory.
During a group camping trip last weekend at Iron Creek Campground, I suggested we all head up to Old Snowy on the PCT and enjoy the amazing views. Mt. Rainier and even Mt. Adams are usually visible from miles away and even if there were a few clouds, the Goat Rocks Wilderness is known for its stellar beauty. When I hiked past it towards the end of my thru-hike, it left an unforgettable impression.
Naturally, the weather report for our Saturday hike was a 60% chance of rain but only a scant tenth of an inch for accumulation. What foolishness made me believe that report, I know not.
In the wee hours of Saturday morning, the heavens opened up and gave our camp a solid drenching. By breakfast it had mostly dissipated to a light drizzle and bits of blue sporadically floated into view above suggesting a clearing of the clouds might occur before long, so the crew was still willing to head up and experience the fabled natural wonders of the Goat Rocks.
After a stop at the Cowlitz Valley Ranger District to fetch a Forest Pass for one of the cars and a topographical map, we drove towards Packwood, Washington and–after a bit of backtracking–turned our cars to head up Forest Road 21 to the Snowgrass Flats trailhead. The roads to the trailhead are typical of the your Cascadian Forest Service roads–solid but definitely a bit bumpy with the occasional “whoops” as a rut or pothole introduced itself to one of your wheels.
A nice, drifting drizzle followed us all the way up with hard rains coming and going sporadically. Even on this rainy Saturday, the trailhead parking lot was almost completely full of cars with both backpackers and hikers departing and arriving. While there was no outhouse at the Snowgrass Flats trailhead, the Berry Patch trailhead had one and was very close by (about half a mile, before the road forks). Worth a quick stop, if you have a group.
The journey up to Snowgrass Flats fluctuated between periods of dry, where we would all peel off our rain gear to alleviate the heat built up from hiking, to a chilly drizzle that would accumulate in upper branches and coalesce into that perfect rain drop for falling down the nape of your neck.
By the time we reached Snowgrass Flats the sweat and drizzle had given us all a mild case of the damp. A stiff wind was picking up and one wondered if a wrong turn had delivered us to Scotland. After lunch four members of the group decided that perhaps heading further up was not altogether the most pleasant way to spend an afternoon and meandered back to the cars. The remaining seven decided to continue heading up to the PCT and onto Old Snowy. What will happen to them?
Suffice to say, the wind and rain eased, returned, eased, returned, and then finally up near the snow fields both decided to stick around and travel with us all the way up to the summit. We really hike at the most delightful of places.
Where the PCT hiker trail (there is a pack trail that goes around) crosses near the summit of Old Snowy, there is a solid wall of rocks where one can huddle with a small group of chilled travelers before heading up to the summit proper. Two of our group decided to stay there and warm up while the rest continued onwards.
Oh, and those lovely views? Not so much majestic, more in the realm Emyn Muil. Quite lovely in its harsh way but definitely a bit dreary and inhospitable. I would not want to be stuck up there overnight without a dry shelter.
The summit required a bit of scrambling and while it was in no way a technical climb, the steep rocks combined with the conditions made it slightly hazardous if unprepared. A prudent and careful hiker will still have fun though, if in the right mindset. Oddly–and I cannot understand it my own self–not everyone likes climbing up sharp rocks in a storm. More for the rest of us.
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Directions to Trailhead: From I-5, travel east on Highway 12 about 62 miles to the junction with Forest Road 21, right before Packwood. Turn right (south) onto Forest Road 21 and follow it uphill for about 13 miles until Forest Road 2150, signed “Chambers Lake”. Follow the signs approximately 2 miles to the Snowgrass Flats trailhead. (Google Maps)
While a Northwest Forest Pass is not required at the Snowgrass Flats trailhead (it is required at the nearby Berry Patch trailhead though) , you may wish to stop at the Cowlitz Valley Ranger Station in Randall to pick up a map and ask about weather/conditions. Randall, Washington is about 13 miles before the Forest Road 21 junction.
Trail Directions: Follow Snowgrass Trail #96 about 4 miles up to Snowgrass Flats. Continue upwards another mile until you hit the Pacific Crest Trail (Trail #2000). Head North (left) on the PCT and work your way up past treeline. Even in August there is a usually a snowfield here you will cross before you hit the ridge overlooking Packwood Glacier. The PCT will split into a pack trail and a hiker trail. Take the hiker trail and head upwards to Old Snowy.
Notes: Old Snowy has an elevation of 7,880' (2402 m). Check the weather and insure you have your ten essentials with appropriate clothing for the conditions. On clear days, this trail is merely a little rocky. On poor days with bad weather, a twisted ankle near the summit of Old Snowy can be a life-threatening situation. Oh, and take a camera.
