Making cinnamon rolls from scratch

I’ve been meaning to experiment with sweet enriched doughs (yeast doughs bolstered with fat and/or eggs) since binge-watching two full seasons of the Great British Baking Show. (I’m also subjected to the Instagram feeds of the many amateur home bakers I know.)

I have decades of informal experience baking ordinary yeast breads, and good enough instincts about them as a result that I’m comfortable tackling variations. But I’ve done very little with enriched doughs. I don’t know what consistency to be aiming for, or how variations in proportions will affect the taste or feel of the final product.

As a first foray into enriched doughs, this weekend I made an adjusted version of this recipe for orange-cardamom cinnamon rolls. I left off the icing, both because I’m way too fat already and because it didn’t seem necessary. I also doubled the filling (and scaled back the quantity of butter in it), and used a different but comparable marmalade that I had on hand. Also because I didn’t have instant yeast I proofed my regular yeast, which changed the order in which I added the ingredients, and I gave it a first rise — and come to think of it, I guess sound like I know what I’m doing. But trust me, I haven’t made an enriched dough in forever.

Anyway, aside from burning the bottoms, the rolls came out okay — the rise was good, the texture was right. But I wasn’t impressed with the bread itself , which just wasn’t flavorful enough. So it’s time to try something a little richer: another egg, twice the butter, maybe cream instead of milk.

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