A Weeklong Winter Retreat in Montreal & Quebec City

Roaming We Grow
7 min readFeb 28, 2024

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Embark on a culinary journey from savoring the best poutine at Dunn’s Famous to indulging in melty cheese bagel sandwiches at Bügel Fabrique. This 7-night itinerary promises an enchanting blend of cultural exploration, scenic wonders, and unforgettable experiences, making it a must-read for those seeking a cozy and delightful Canadian winter escape.

A quick note: Officially, in English, Montreal and Quebec do not have accents. However, in French they do! When referring to a place or location in French, we will include it, and when referring to it in English, we’ll omit it.

Day 1 — Flight to Montreal, Hotel Check-in, & Dinner

Upon checking into Hôtel Le Centre Sheraton Montréal, we discovered Dunn’s Famous restaurant was within walking distance. Naturally, our first meal in Montreal had to be poutine!

Spoiler alert: Dunn’s Famous Smoked Meat Poutine was not only our first poutine of the trip, but also our favorite. We enjoyed it so much that we returned on our last night.

DUNN’S FAMOUS | The Québécoise poutine with Dunn’s famous smoked meat.
Dunn’s Famous Smoked Meat Poutine | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Day 2 — Montreal Bagels & Explore

Montreal’s unique handmade bagels beckoned us to St-Viateur Bagel for breakfast.

Did you know that Montreal has their own unique type of bagel? Distinct from the New York-style bagel, these hand-made wood-fired delights are smaller, thinner, sweeter, and more dense, with a larger hole. It is distinctive for being baked in a wood-fired oven, containing malt and egg, having no salt, and being boiled in honey-sweetened water before baking.

Fun fact: St-Viateur Bagel crafts an impressive 6,000 bagels daily!

St-Viateur Bagel | Photo credit: Roaming We Grow

Post bagels, we explored Avenue Mont-Royal’s local stores, including quirky consignment shops, Aux 33 Tours giant record store, and a charming coffee shop.

Later, we ventured to Vieux-Port (Old Port). This lively area is filled with activities, including an ice skating rink and ferris wheel, and bustling with local artisans and vendors.

That evening we capped off the night with dinner and drinks. Despite being unable to secure a spot on the terrace in their private domes overlooking the St. Lawrence River (pro tip: I recommend booking months in advance if you are traveling as a group of 4 or more!), at the historic Hotel William Gray, we enjoyed a delightful dinner at Maggie Oakes.

Day 3 — Montreal Brunch & Cirque du Soleil Show

On our third day, we met up with friends for brunch at a local neighborhood cafe called Beauty’s Restaurant, known for its diner-style food.

We spent the afternoon hiking through Parc Mont-Royal, which was filled with locals sledding over the snowy hills and boasting beautiful city views.

After the cold proved a bit too much for two Floridians, we sought refuge in a much-needed hot chocolate, or should I say “chocolat chaud,” from Café Myriade — this became a daily afternoon treat throughout our trip!

Mount Royal Park & Cafe Myriade | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

I’ve always been a huge fan of Cirque du Soleil and aerial performances. After discovering that Cirque du Soleil originated in Montreal in the 1980s, I didn’t want to miss the chance to experience a hometown show. We purchased tickets for Corteo (click the link for a preview) and thoroughly enjoyed the circus-themed performance. (Tip: Check cirquedusoleil.com for the latest shows, schedules, and tickets.)

Day 4 — Drive to Quebec City, Explore the Old Town & Dinner

To save money on multiple flights, we decided to rent a car (another travel tip!) and drive to Quebec City, the eponymous capital of the province. Plus, the fun part of any road trip is the snacks! This was the perfect chance to stock up on some of our favorite Canadian treats, including:

  • Maple Leaf Creme Cookies (I brought these home for friends & family and they were a huge hit!)
  • Doritos Zesty Cheese & Spicy Nacho Flavors
  • Ruffles All-Dressed Chips
  • Lay’s Ketchup Flavored Chips
Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Upon arrival in the city, we explored Vieux-Québec (Old Quebec City). This area is teeming with restaurants, bars, and local stores. The charming area was beautifully decorated with holiday lights and decor, and lots of holiday cheer!

Old Québec | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Day 5 — Breakfast & Explore Montmorency Falls

We loved our breakfast at Bügel Fabrique de Bagels and highly recommend it. Who doesn’t love melty cheese bagel sandwiches?

Bügel Fabrique de Bagels | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Next, we headed to Parc de la Chute-Montmorency. A towering 83 meters (272.3 feet), Montmorency Falls, 30 meters (98.4 feet) taller than Niagara Falls, offers a spectacular sight year-round. Located just 15 minutes from Vieux-Québec, visitors can choose between wonder and adventure, taking a cable car (which was sadly closed during our visit) to the top for a breathtaking view or crossing the suspension bridge (which we loved!), where you can feel the power of the rumbling waterfall; definitely a fun and exciting must-see (and must-hear!).

Montmorency Falls | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Day 6 — Drive back to Montreal, Aura Show at the Basilica, & Dinner

After our trip back down the A-40, we paused for lunch at the renowned La Banquise, indulging in our second-favorite poutine dish of the trip, complemented by locally crafted Boréale beer.

La Hot-Dog Poutine at La Banquise | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Later that night we attended the must-see Aura experience at the Basilique Notre-Dame (Notre Dame Basilica). This captivating multimedia display within the Gothic Revival interior featured dynamic light, orchestral music, and expressive architecture. Welcomingly, there is no photography or recording allowed during the show. But, we reassure you, this is an experience you won’t want to miss!

Notre Dame Basilica | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

After the show, we indulged in a Italian dinner at Wienstein & Gavino’s (enjoyed our favorite dish — chicken parm, yum!), followed by a night cap of drinks and a cigar at Stogies Cigar Lounge. While at the lounge, we savored the sight of falling snow in a warm and cozy atmosphere. Beware of some sticker shock when it comes to the cigar prices — the tax on tobacco in Quebec is some of the highest in the world. However, as an American, we couldn’t forego the opportunity to have an elusive Cuban cigar!

Balcony View from Stogies Cigar Lounge
Balcony view from Stogies Cigar Lounge | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Day 7 — Massage & Spa day at Bota Bota / Hockey Game at Night

Before bidding adieu to our Francophone friends, we aimed to wrap up our trip with a relaxing day, opting for a Nordic spa experience. While the Strøm Spa in Quebec came highly recommended, unfortunately, they didn’t have availability during our visit. As an alternative, we chose Bota Bota, spa-sur-l’eau on the St. Lawrence River in Vieux-Port de Montréal, a spa on a boat!

Embarking on a range of experiences, from the sauna to a 60-minute massage, this unique place did offer a journey of well-being. While we found enjoyment in the outdoor jacuzzi and dared to take a cold plunge into the St. Lawrence River, it was a bit livelier than your typical spa, making for an interesting (and admittedly freezing!) adventure.

To wrap up the evening, we took in a Montreal Canadiens game at the epicenter of hockey, Centre Bell, embracing the spirit of Canada’s national sport. Hockey was invented in Canada, and the Canadiens were the first and oldest professional hockey team. As avid hockey fans, we have a goal to visit all 32 NHL arenas, and have 19 under our belt. Maybe we’ll document our progress towards our goal in a mini series! (Comment below if you are interested!)

Centre Bell — Montreal Canadiens vs New York Rangers | Photo cred: Roaming We Grow

Day 8 — Brunch & Flight back home

Our adventure concluded with a delightful brunch at the globally renowned Schwartz’s Deli, just before making our way to the airport for our flight back home. Even though there was a long line to get seated, the wait paid off — Schwartz’s was the perfect way to end our culinary adventure in Montreal. Being one of the oldest restaurants in Canada, the moment you step inside, it feels like a journey back in time. The welcoming staff and delectable sandwiches were the perfect send off!

As our winter adventure wrapped up, memories of cozy brunches, snowy strolls, and unexpected delights lingered. Whether savoring unique flavors or immersing ourselves in the local vibe, every moment felt like a warm embrace in the heart of Canada’s winter charm. We hope this article inspires you to embark on a trip and create your own favorite memories amid the winter magic of Quebec and Montreal.

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Roaming We Grow

👋 I'm Jackie Schempp! Wandering and sharing travel planning tips & itineraries | Gardening & baking enthusiast | Marketer with a touch of adventure