What is it like to visit Norway at the end of December ? Chasing the Northern Lights: A New Year’s Adventure in Norway
From Paris to Oslo and Beyond — Two Weeks of Wintery Bliss
As the year wound down and the urge to escape the familiar took hold, my girlfriend Sélène and I decided to embark on a two-week journey to her favorite country, Norway. Our adventure was timed perfectly from December 25th to January 7th, promising us a glimpse into the Nordic winter wonderland during one of the most magical times of the year.
Chapter 1: Setting the Scene — Choosing Norway
Why Norway, you might ask? As seasoned skiers planning to conquer the Swiss slopes later in the season, Norway presented itself as an ideal starting point. Our goal was to immerse ourselves in the early ski season, rest amidst stunning landscapes, and explore the culture and daily life in a country renowned for its high quality of life. From experiencing a frozen climate to living in cozy wooden cabins, we were ready to dive headfirst into all that Norway had to offer.
Chapter 2: The Journey Begins — Travel and Transportation
Our journey was to be as possible an eco-friendly one, limiting ourselves to just one plane ride from Paris to Oslo and back to Geneva. With a commitment to adventure and sustainability, we decided to navigate Norway by electric car, trusting its robust electrical infrastructure. The choice fell on a Tesla Model 3, a nod to modernity and efficiency in the face of Norway’s freezing temperatures.
Chapter 3: First Impressions — Arrival in Oslo
Landing in Oslo on Christmas day, we were greeted by the early onset of night, a stark reminder of the Nordic winter. The city was quiet, almost serene, with the glow of Christmas lights reflecting off the snow. Picking up our Tesla, we were thrust into a new experience, learning the ropes of an electric vehicle in a foreign land. If you wonder, every car rental had an actual human, even on December 25th.
Chapter 4: The Heart of Winter — Cross-Country Skiing in Sjusjoen
As we ventured into Sjusjoen, the anticipation for our first major skiing endeavor grew. This place, known for its expansive cross-country trails, was a stark contrast to the mountainous terrains we were accustomed to. With the landscape sprawling before us like a blank canvas of snow under a wide sky, it felt as if we had stepped into another world.
The cold was biting, a sharp reminder of the Nordic winter’s might. Yet, it was this very chill that preserved the beauty of the trails, making each glide through the snow feel like a dance with nature. The joy of skiing in such pristine conditions was unparalleled, even if the cold demanded its due respect.
As for equipment, our decision to rent on-site brought another layer to our adventure. The rental shop, Sport1, provided us with a range of options, but it was clear that the equipment available was of a medium range. While perfectly serviceable for enjoying the vast tracks and the beauty of the area, the gear was not of the high-end variety we were accustomed to. This meant adjusting our expectations and skiing style to match the equipment, turning our focus more towards the scenic routes and less on performance.
Our time in Sjusjoen was marked not just by the skiing but also by the rhythm of life there. Shops closed early, and dinners were a quiet affair, a far cry from the late nights we were used to. But this simplicity had its own charm. It allowed us to sync with the natural pace of winter in Norway, where long nights encourage reflection and rest.
Despite the challenges — the cold that seeped into our bones and the early darkness that curtained the days — Sjusjoen offered us a unique experience. It wasn’t just about the skiing, which was, of course, exceptional. It was about immersing ourselves in a different way of life, one that revolved around the winter’s rhythm, and finding joy and beauty in the quieter, slower moments it offered.
Chapter 5: The Call of the Mountains — Ski Touring Near Vagamo
Venturing near the Jotunheimen National Park, the heart of Norway’s mountainous majesty, we were enticed by the allure of ski touring in what we imagined would be idyllic conditions. Yet, the reality we encountered was starkly different from our expectations and from the familiar snowscapes of the Alps. The snow here was a revelation in itself — unpredictable and inconsistent. It was as if the land wore a thin, patchy cloak of winter, with areas of deep powder interspersed with spots barely covered.
This uneven snow cover posed a significant challenge for ski touring. In some areas, the layer of powder was too shallow, offering insufficient support for our skis. In others, it was unexpectedly deep, making our progress slow and laborious. The inconsistency made it difficult to find a path, with each stride an exercise in caution and adaptation. It was a far cry from the ample, stable snowpacks we were accustomed to, which allow for smooth, rhythmic ascents and descents.
Faced with these conditions, we made the decision to forgo our initial plans for extensive ski touring. Instead, we opted to explore the valley, a choice that, while born of necessity, proved enriching in its own right. This allowed us to truly engage with the land, to understand the nuances of its winter guise, and to appreciate the beauty of its stark, wild nature.
Our exploration was a humbling reminder of the unpredictability of mountain environments, especially in a country where the winter can be as severe and unforgiving as Norway’s. It underscored the importance of flexibility and respect for nature’s whims. Though we didn’t embark on the ambitious ski tours we had envisioned, the experience deepened our connection to Norway’s rugged terrain and left us with a profound respect for its unique winter landscape.
Chapter 6: City Lights and Quiet Nights — New Year’s Eve in Alesund
Alesund, with its reputation for Art Nouveau architecture and stunning seaside views, held the promise of a lively New Year’s Eve celebration to cap off our Norwegian adventure. However, the reality that greeted us was markedly different, turning our expectations on their head.
As we wandered the streets of Alesund on the eve of the new year, the city’s beauty was undeniable, but its pulse was faint. The usually vibrant streets were hushed, and the festive lights, while twinkling in the winter darkness, only highlighted the absence of people. The city, in its near-deserted state, felt like a stage after the actors had departed, leaving behind only the set.
Our anticipation for a night filled with the clinking of glasses, laughter, and the shared excitement of counting down to the new year was met with closed doors and silent facades. Restaurant after restaurant, we found shutters down and lights off, each one a reminder of our isolation. The stark contrast between our expectations of a bustling holiday atmosphere and the reality of the quiet streets was jarring.
In the end, our New Year’s Eve in Alesund was a stark reminder that travel often brings the unexpected. While the quietness of the city was initially a source of disillusionment, it also allowed us a moment of peace and introspection that is rare in the usual clamor of celebrations. Alesund, with its silent streets and closed doors, offered a different kind of end to the year: one of quietude, reflection, and a deepened appreciation for the unpredictable nature of adventure.
Closing Reflections: Embracing the Unexpected
As our journey continued, we realized that Norway in the wintertime was not just a destination; it was an experience marked by contrasts, from the bustling ski trails to the silent city streets. It was a reminder of the beauty of the unexpected, the joy of embracing a new culture, and the thrill of adapting to the whims of nature.
For those considering a similar journey, my advice is simple: embrace the quiet, plan with flexibility, and let Norway’s winter wonderland take you on a journey you’ll never forget.
