Paris Haute Couture: Ziad Nakad SS’19
Ethereal Sparkle and Heavenly Bodies for Couture SS’19.
The Ziad Nakad woman is that of a star herself. She is bright and stands out amongst the others. She often attends balls and major events like galas, and most likely comes from or is perceived as a royal. His Spring Summer Haute Couture collection was titled “Orion”, named after the prominent star constellation visible to most of the world. The collection delivered incredibly intricate embroidery, heavily focused on stones rather than beading, which reflected the idea of Orion’s star array.
The embroidery patterns complimented the theme of constellations by frequently appearing in clusters and different sizes. They gave off an ethereal sparkle that made the models appear as heavenly bodies when the lighting was just right. What appeared to be ostrich feathers were common throughout the collection. They were dyed various colors that matched the fabric chosen, giving the garments a look of being light and buoyant. Nakad has stated that he also drew inspiration from Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix, which shows through his design technique and construction season after season.
The color palette mainly ranged in pastels, but also included metallics and the occasional primary color. With the combination of feathers and some ombré moments (Look 4) within the fabrics and stones, many looks gave a nod to the seamless integration of colors found in Nebulas. The silhouettes ranged from feminine to architectural with major construction, while still complimenting the models. The style of the collection gave homage to the garments of royal families from previous centuries. The dresses commonly had high waisted silhouettes, and ranged from being asymmetrical to sleeveless, draped, or accessorised with a matching glove.
The models hair was pulled back and make up was minimal as to not distract from the the intricate details that laid upon the fabric, which much of was tulle. In the past, the casting for Ziad Nakad was often primarily Caucasian models, but this season included a bit more diversity — although there still could certainly be more, especially in Haute Couture.
Haute Couture collections notably end with a bridal gown and Ziad Nakad’s bride was decorated in elaborate details. The silhouette was a wide high waisted ball gown, common for bridal, with a long train that followed behind and grazed onlookers’s feet. There were certain looks where the collection did feel dated and restricting or heavy to the wearer. A few of the dresses seemed to wear the model, rather than the model wearing the dress. Yet, with the abundance of skill and craftsmanship that went into the collection, it was hard to look away from the dress and bring your focus to the person wearing it. The collection’s theme of “Orion” and astronomy, affectively works with the idea of Haute Couture and that it is supposed to be admired by an onlooker, filled with elements of wonder of curiosity.