How to 3D Print a Two-Color Die
My name is Samuel Cohen and this is how I single-handedly designed, developed, and launched a website where you can customize a die and have it 3D printed in 30 days. Below is a technical update post. If you wish to read more about the project, the landing page is here.
Having previously completed a 3D model in the tutorials here and here, a color customizer here, and a printable model here, I was ready to print my product. Using PrusaSlicer I can slice the models into layers to prepare for printing. Then I can print those files using my Prusa MK3S.
Below is a video showcasing the basic methods I used to print two-color dice. If you want to know the specifics, continue reading.
3D Printing Overview
3D Printing a Two-Color Dice
Importing Models into PrusaSlicer
The first thing I am going to do is import the dots and base STL files that I created in Fusion 360. To do that I open PrusaSlicer and click the add button.
Once the models are imported they look like this.
The models are currently not placed correctly. I am going to use the set-on-side tool to put the models down on the correct faces.
From the angle below, I can see that the dots do not correctly line up with the hotels in the base. I need to move the dots over so they line up properly.
Now that the dots are aligned properly I can split the models. I am going to do this by deleting the base model from the scene.
Now that the dots are in the correct place I can modify the settings to make sure the dots stick to the bed. In the basic settings options on the right side, I can change the quality to .2mm, material to Prusa PLA, and finally, change the infill to 100% to ensure stability.
Next, I can go into the filament settings in the upper bar. Once I am in the settings I can change the bed temperature to 85 degrees celsius. This bed temperature is so high to maximize bed adhesion and prevent the dots from peeling off the bed.
In the same menu, I can go to cooling and turn the fan completely off, so that the dots do not lift from the bed.
Once cooling is off the settings are complete, so I can go back to the platter section. I can click the slice now button to slice the model.
Then I can export the model and start setting up the base. I went back to the 3D viewer and added the base back into the scene to ensure it is properly aligned with the dots. Then I deleted the dots.
Now I can change the settings for the base. The only thing I am going to change from the dot model is cooling. Back in the cooling section, I am going to select “fan always on”.
I changed the cooling because the model has to be the correct proportions and adhesion shouldn’t be as much of an issue.
Once these settings are set, I can click the slice now button and export the model
Finally, I imported the piece that connects the die together. I went back to the 3D viewer and deleted the die model and imported the base.
From there I can go into the print settings tab and over to support materials. Then I click auto-generate supports.
I enabled this setting so that the model prints properly on each side. The supports can be removed after the print is complete.
After this step, I clicked the slice now button and exported the model.
Now that the files are correctly formatted I am going to move on to actually 3D printing the models.
3D Printing
I am going to show the process of creating a grey and light-blue colored dice with my Prusa MK3S.
First, I am going to print the dots in a light-blue color.
This is a picture of the finished dots. The print took about 2 minutes to finish. This is the part that is most likely to fail because sometimes the dots will come off of the bed. Once that is complete, I remove the line surrounding the dots and start printing the base.
Before starting the dice base, I have to change the color of filament. This process takes about 3 minutes, and I have to make sure the bed stays at a consistent temperature.
This is what the print looks like after the first layer of the base. As you can see the grey color has printed around the blue and will eventually encase it once the model is complete.
Here is what the model looks like once it is completed. As you can see the colors are no longer visible, but you can see the connectors.
Once the die was taken off the build plate the other side looks like this. There are some artifacts on this print that can be improved with a change in layer height and some updated settings.
Next, the die connector piece will be printed.
As you can see support material was generated around the model to hold up certain parts. Once the supports are removed, the connector looks like this.
Now that the die components are complete, the die can be assembled.
The die can now be folded together. Here is an image of a finished die. Note that this is not a final product and some minor changes are still required for aesthetics.
Conclusion
Now I have a system for 3D printing two-colored dice. This is the last technical post, so here is a link to the first business post.
Check Out the Website at www.dicedesigner.com.
