A Guide To The Grape Pedro Ximenez
Interlude
Welcome to this post about the grape variety known as Pedro Ximenez. A variety that is mostly cultivated in Spain. Known for a deep intensity and complexity but still maybe not as well known as it should be. In the last post we covered the family of grapes Muscat.
Something that everyone should read up on. We are doing these posts to learn more about the world of wine to feel more confident navigating it. Much like the last one we will discuss the history of the region, the style of wine that it makes, climate and geography and of course some recommendations for you. So without further ado, let’s get started!
History of the grape
There have been many different stories or suggestions as to where and how the grape came to be. In the year 1661 a German ampelographer made the case for the grape originating from either the Canary Islands or Madeira. He said it was later brought to the wind regions of Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Mosel in Germany. Here it was cultivated for some time and then a Spanish soldier by the name Pedro Ximen brought it back home to Spain for propagation. His idea was that either the soldier brought it back or a Cathlic Cardinal by the name Ximenez did it.
This theory of the origin was spread throughout the educated wine experts. It was even suggested that the grape was related to other German grapes like Elbling and Riesling. But with the new technologies that we have at hand has been able to disprove this. Today’s ampelography has stronger evidence for the case that it actually comes from southern Spain, somewhere in the Andalusia region. ‘Here it has been grown since the 17th century.
It was in the year 1618 described as the famous wines of the “Pedro Ximénez de Málaga”. A relatively recent discovery was made in 2007 which showed that it was the offspring of an Arabic table grape called Gibi. This parent grape was grown to a great extent throughout southern France and the Iberian Peninsula. The story that I like the most is that it was named after a winemaker that dedicated himself to establish it in the Iberian peninsula many many centuries ago after he had discovered it as a varietal and offspring to another grape.
The grape was grown in many different Spanish regions but has been most famous for the wines from Montilla-Moriles. It has been growing in Australia since the 1830s. Here it is now made into fortified wines with a sherry character to it. Historically also a very fitting grape to make sweet wine from in the country.
The style of wine
We have touched briefly on the type of wine that the grape has been most famous for. That is the sweet sherries made in the region of Jerez in Spain. Often not very suited for table wine purposes, they shine instead as fortified wines like the Sherry blend or as a single varietal wine that is labeled as PX. The reason for this is the naturally low acidity in the grapes.
It is grown mostly throughout the region of Montilla-Marines in Spain but also sees some cultivation in southern Spain too. Such as Valencia, Canary Islands and Extremadura. Even though Jerez is the place that is mostly associated with the grape, here only 5 % of the vineyards are planted with Pedro Ximenez. But in Montilla-Marines a whopping 70 % is covered with grapes. The reason is that most of the actual production happens in Jerez as the winemakers import the winemust from Montilla-Marines and finish the process here. PX wines are the best expression of the grape.
It is not restricted to Spain and can therefore be made all over the world. The wines are made by sun-drying the grapes to an almost raisin-like texture. This method really intensifies the flavours. What liquid that can still be extracted is partially fermented and afterwards later aged in solera systems. The wines show off lush sweet flavours with aromas of toffee and figs. The best producers will also give you notes of chocolate and dried fruit.
Climate and geography
So the climate that the grape can be grown in is quite versatile, but the results can therefore vary a lot. If you are to make sweet wines from it then it will need a very hot climate. This is why it fits in so well in southern Spain. Here the soils are also quite dry and not very rich in nutrients. This makes it so that the vines have to dig very deep in the ground to get the necessary elements to survive.
The grapes become therefore more concentrated in flavour and the yields are also smaller. The vines become very hardy because of this and can manage drought relatively well. If grown in more humid climates it can be blended to white blends. The grapes don’t become quite as intense and can even show off slight minerality together with the signature flavours of figs and dried fruit. Most notably is in Portugal, more specifically the region of Alentejo. Often referred to as Perrum here though.
Recommendations
So what kind of wines do I tend to buy when I want Pedro Ximenez? Well I have to say that my favourite is the PX wines. I just find them to be the absolute best. They make for great ingredients in sauces. Something that you might not think is what it’s for. But for me I almost associate it more with sauce making then with drinking. The depth it can bring to sauce or cooking in general is almost overpowering. It’s a lot of fun and rewarding to cook with.
Last words
That’s a wrap for this post about the grape variety known as Pedro Ximenez. A great grape that comes from long traditions of winemaking in Spain. A feeling of culture is felt whenever I use it. I hope that you have enjoyed reading this and feel more confident now navigating the world of wine. Stay tuned for the next post where we will cover the grape variety Manseng.
