The ABCs of Skincare Acids: A Beginner’s Crash Course

Sanchali Bhogaonkar
6 min readFeb 18, 2024

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Hey there, skincare enthusiasts! Today, we’re diving into some common skin concerns and the ingredients that can help address them. These are the go-to ingredients you’ve probably seen all over the internet. Plus, we’ll discuss whether it’s worth splurging or saving on common skincare products, whether you should opt for a serum or moisturizer with specific ingredients, and why choosing the right ingredient for your skin is crucial.

Navigating the world of skincare acids can be a bit overwhelming, but fear not! For a heads up, I have an oily acne-prone skin type, so you’ll be reading through some personal experiences as well. I’ll be your guide through the ABCs of skin care, offering a beginner’s crash course to simplify things. We’ll focus on popular acids that are often used without proper knowledge, simply because they’re easily accessible over the counter.

Throughout this article, we’ll explore the benefits of skincare acids, debunk some common myths, and break down the differences between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. Plus, I’ll share practical tips for tackling various skin issues, whether it’s acne, dry patches, or those pesky signs of aging. So, get ready to level up your skincare game — I’m excited to share my insights with you! Let’s dive right in!

✨ Difference between AHAs, BHAs, & PHAs

🌸 AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water-soluble acids that exfoliate and smooth the skin’s surface. One typical AHA is glycolic acid, which comes from sugar cane. It removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

🌸 BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble acids that enter deep into the pores, making them suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid is a common BHA obtained from willow bark. It unclogs pores, reduces irritation, and prevents breakouts by removing excess oil and dead skin cells.

🌸 PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids): PHAs are gentle exfoliants that deliver similar advantages to AHAs but cause less irritation, making them ideal for sensitive skin. One example of a PHA is gluconolactone, which has moisturizing characteristics and aids in the improvement of skin texture, redness reduction, and overall skin tone and brightness.

✨ For Exfoliation — Enhancing Skin Texture

🌸 Importance of Exfoliation

Regular exfoliation is key to maintaining healthy and vibrant skin. By removing dead skin cells, it clears pores, minimizes acne, and boosts skincare absorption. This process also enhances cell turnover, resulting in a smoother texture, even tone, and a radiant complexion. However, it’s important to exfoliate gently and no more than once a week to avoid irritation and maximize benefits.

🌸 Best Acids & My Insights — Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Kojic Acid

If you’re using acids like Salicylic, Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic, or Kojic Acid for the first time, start with a patch test to ensure compatibility. Ease into it slowly, using a lower concentration every other day to prevent irritation. Consider starting with mild options like Mandelic or Lactic Acid. Moisturize afterward to keep your skin hydrated, and don’t forget sunscreen during the day. Always remember that such exfoliants, even if they’re gentle, can perform differently for different skin types. I began my exfoliation journey with a Mandelic Acid face mask from Dr. Sheths, complemented by a weekly hydrating sheet mask.

✨ For Brightening & Skin Aging — Revealing That Radiant Glow

🌸 Use Cases of Brightening Ingredients

Brightening ingredients like Alpha Arbutin and Vitamin C are essential for radiant skin! They reduce black spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven tone, giving you a youthful glow. Alpha Arbutin and Vitamin C inhibit melanin production, while Niacinamide fades hyperpigmentation and fortifies the skin’s barrier. Retinol enhances cell turnover and collagen production, smoothing and firming the skin, while Azelaic Acid brightens and addresses blemishes. If you’re thinking of using Vitamin A or Retinol, consult a dermatologist due to its strong nature.

🌸 Best Acids & My Insights Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Retinol (Vitamin A), Azelaic Acid

If you’re diving into Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Retinol (Vitamin A), or Azelaic Acid for the first time to brighten your skin and tackle aging, here’s a friendly heads-up. Niacinamide is the friendliest skin food that you can pair with almost everything as it helps in shrinking your pores, controlling oil, fading blemishes, and hydrating your skin. Before you get started, it’s a good idea to do a patch test. When incorporating these active ingredients into your routine, start slowly to avoid overwhelming your skin. Don’t forget to moisturize afterward, and always apply sunscreen during the day. Remember, patience is key. A pro tip, don’t use these ingredients if you’re having active acne. Though you can use Niacinamide on active acne, avoid using Vitamin C till your acne is completely gone or you’re having some post-acne scars.

✨ For Hydration — Getting That Dewy Plump Skin

🌸 Importance of Hydration

Hydration plays a vital role in maintaining the health and vitality of your skin. It ensures that your skin remains moisturized, resilient, and protected against various environmental factors. Proper hydration helps to prevent dryness, maintain skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. By keeping your skin hydrated, you can achieve a smoother, softer complexion and promote a more youthful appearance. Incorporating hydrating skincare products and drinking an adequate amount of water are essential steps in ensuring your skin stays nourished and radiant.

🌸 Best Ingredients & My Insights — Hyaluronic Acid, Peptides, Ceramides, Niacinamide, Glycerin

If you’re new to using Hyaluronic Acid, Peptides, Ceramides, Niacinamide, or Glycerin for hydration, here are some friendly tips to get you started. Before diving in, it’s a good idea to do a patch test, because some serums, along with Hyaluronic Acid do have other ingredients that your skin may react aggressively to. Start slowly and introduce them one at a time to see how your skin responds. Don’t forget to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in all that hydration. And remember, consistency is key. A lot of people have the wrong notion that oily skin doesn’t require hydration. That’s a big myth, in fact, oily skin when given the right amount of hydration, both internally and externally, produces less oil.

✨ Debunking Common Myths — Having The Facts Checked

✅ Oily skin does require a moisturizer. Use a gel-based moisturizer so it can penetrate better along with ceramides to build a better skin barrier.

✅ Most of your skincare products already have Niacinamide, so don’t spend on buying a Niacinamide serum. Instead, go for a light-weight Hyaluronic Acid serum (for dry-skin types).

✅ Don’t waste your money on facewashes with actives, those actives aren’t going to work because you’ll wash it away eventually. Actives need to stay on your skin for at least an hour to work, so invest in good-quality serums and moisturizers instead.

✅ If you have a serum with actives, you don’t need a moisturizer with more actives. Instead, go for a moisturizer having ceramides and glycerin.

✅ Not everyone requires Vitamin C for brightening, you can also go for ingredients like Niacinamide and Alpha Arbutin. If you’re someone who has active acne, avoid using Vitamin C for the time being, use Niacinamide instead.

✅ Always look at the ingredients list before buying a skincare product. If you find a product that claims to be ‘non-comedogenic’, but you see ingredients like Mystiric Acid, Stearic Acid, or any essential oils, that product will indeed clog your pores.

✅ When starting with Retinol, use it every other night so your skin gets used to it. If you’re under the age of 20, you don’t need a Retinol, focus more on hydration.

✅ Sheet masks twice a week maximum, clay/mud masks once a week. Overdoing with exfoliation is super easy. Don’t use peeling solutions if you have acne/rosacea.

So, we’ve reached the end of our journey through the ABCs of Skincare Acids, and I hope you found it both insightful and empowering. By debunking some common myths and shedding light on the benefits of these acids, I hope more people are aware of these ingredients and make smart choices.

Remember, skincare is all about finding what works best for you, although there is no harm in experimenting, always consult with a dermatologist before incorporating strong acids. Armed with this newfound understanding, I have no doubt that you’ll be well on your way to achieving the healthy, glowing skin you’ve always dreamed of.

✨ Click HERE to read about the Indian skincare brands I love — along with product recommendations (ones I personally used), tips, and insights!

Thanks for reading < 3

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Sanchali Bhogaonkar

An enthusiastic writer who's all about k-dramas, skincare, and novel recommendations!