How is Fast Fashion So Cheap? #payyourworkers
“Something is worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.” The professors at the business school I attended for my BBA in Finance and Management repeated this phrase often. If we copy and paste this concept onto fashion consumption in the last 10 years, we can come to the conclusion that clothing is not something people value very highly.
People are not willing to pay very much for fashion, and they won’t keep what they bought for very long. Clothing has become something disposable, to be worn once or a few times and discarded. This pattern is perplexing as clothing is a major communicator of identity, wealth, and social status. The cycle of overconsumption and discarding reveals a warped definition of wealth where the ability to waste is considered a luxury.
Fast fashion is the term used to describe companies that mass-produce trendy ready to wear clothing. Top brands in fast fashion include Zara, H&M, Forever21, Shein, Pretty Little Thing, Fashion Nova, Top Shop, and many others. These brands are considered “fast” in the fashion industry for several reasons: firstly, they replicate runway styles and sell them in store in as little time as a week, secondly, they release many micro seasons (the traditional model is 2–4 seasons: spring/summer, fall/winter, while fast fashion companies like H&M release up to 52 times per year), and additionally production and shipping are managed for maximum instant gratification (not quality).
Fast fashion has never been expensive, and only continues to become cheaper with time. “Why is it so cheap?” I ask and investigate the question. True to the concept of supply and demand, and my professors’ proverb, when consumers willingness to pay decreases, prices must decrease because the sellers must make sales. We are in an environment where consumers’ attention spans are very short, therefore they must be constantly stimulated and because the rate at which they want to consume has increased, their budgets for each purchase are lower. Plus, if you know you are going to wear something just once or twice, why splurge on it?
“How is it so cheap?” is my next and more vital question. The truth is fast fashion has always gotten ahead by cutting corners, and continues trimming edges. The environmental and social costs of “unbeatable prices” must fall somewhere. The truth is, fast fashion brands use the cheapest possible materials and labor.
Cheap, synthetic materials begin polluting even while they are being created. The textile industry is responsible for a gross amount of water pollution as dyes and chemicals are released untreated into water sources. In addition, some synthetics release microplastics every time they are washed. One of the biggest impacts of fast, low-quality fashion, is the amount of landfilled waste created. Not only do synthetics never break down, release microplastics and even small amounts of harmful dyes into water tables, the habit of constant consumption and waste leads to the exploitation of the world’s most vulnerable and valuable resource — human beings.
Fast fashion is built on labor that has the lowest cost possible. This labor comes from countries like Bangladesh, India, Thailand, and China, among many others, where labor is poorly regulated or not regulated at all. Working conditions are dangerous from chemical exposure, unsafe structures, extremely low wages, poor sanitation and healthcare, and even forced labor and child labor. (For more information and interviews with workers who have experienced these conditions, watch The True Cost documentary on Youtube.)
The rise of the #payyourworkers hashtag has brought awareness and attention to issues of labor rights violations around the world. In March, 2021, 1,388 workers arrived to the Victoria’s Secret factory in Thailand to find themselves locked out and the factory shut down, without notice, severance pay, and with an account of unpaid wages. Ongoing now is what is considered the “worst wage theft of history” as UK brands refuse to pay Indian factory workers minimum wage. The stories are endless and heartbreaking. (payyourworkers.org is a verified source for news on this topic.)
Remember, something is worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it. This means these companies do not value their factory workers, because they are not willing to pay them a fair or livable wage. I believe that this business decision reflects a distorted view of the value of human life, work, and takes advantage of the vulnerable. Consider that these companies’ practices and operations regarding compensation and working conditions would be illegal in both North America and Europe, where the brands’ sales are thriving. These brands outsource just beyond the reach of accountability and regulation, and most consumers turn a blind eye to it.
In case you want to take action and stop buying from these brands, but feel financially stuck to them, remember this… Fast fashion brands keep you hooked by delivering low quality (you’ll have to replace it sooner than later) and hyper specific trends (it will be cool today and you won’t dare to wear it next month). Regular consumers of fast fashion actually spend more money on clothing than consumers who occasionally purchase premium goods, because purchases are made more frequently and the lifespan of each piece is much shorter. (Do the math and divide the price by number of times you’ll wear something… you’ll be surprised when comparing quality staples and fast fashion trends.)
