Shangri-La: Why you need to discover Bhutan

A monk climbs the stairs of the imposing Punakha Dzong (Photo: Sarit Ray)

The natural beauty and the imposing Dzongs will leave you wide-eyed; the abundance of chillies in the food will make your eyes water; Bhutan is unlike anything you’ve experienced before

My relatives in Siliguri (West Bengal) are surprised I’m going to Bhutan. Phuentsoling (the entry point to Bhutan, by road) is just a three-hour drive for them. Yet, while they’ve been to nearby Darjeeling and Gangtok innumerable times, they’ve never given Bhutan much thought.

But the unspoilt, unhurried towns of Bhutan beat tourist-overrun Darjeeling hands down; the mountains are pristine, dotted only by low, traditional houses; and the Dzongs (monasteries) are so spectacular, they make you believe in the Himalayan utopia James Hilton wrote about.

Flight to Paro

Flights are usually monotonous affairs. But stay awake for this one. An hour into the flight to Paro (Bhutan’s only airport), piercing through the clouds on the left, stands Mount Everest, and its three surrounding peaks. But the thrill isn’t over. As the plane starts its descent, you’re flying level with mountains on both sides. Landing here, in fact, is so tricky that only a handful of specially trained pilots are allowed to do it.

Paro

Paro could be out of a fairy-tale –a little town with postcard-style neat shops and houses, a shallow, transparent river flowing swiftly, and the 17th century Rinpung Dzong (dzongs are fortresses that also serve as Buddhist monasteries) keeping vigil over it.

The sleepy little town of Paro (Photos: Sarit Ray)

But Paro’s chief attraction is the Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest), that literally hangs off a cliff 3,000m above sea level. It’s a two-hour trek. So arm yourself with enough water, sunscreen, something to eat; and resist the urge to climb aboard the ponies that take you more than halfway up, but can be risky.

Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest), that sits on a cliff 3,000m above sea level (Photo: Sarit Ray)

While in town, visit the Archery Grounds. It’s Bhutan’s national sport, and archers here shoot an insane distance of 145m (the Olympic distance is half, at 90m).

Thimphu

Bhutan’s capital city is quite small. So if you’re looking to tick things off a list, you could do it in a day. But spend time in Thimpu and the place grows on you. Chat with the friendly locals, sit and watch people go by (or heavy metal bands belt it out) at the Clock Tower Square, walk into the breathtaking football stadium if a game is on, or stray into the large (and neat) vegetable market.

Walk through the streets, meet the locals, buy a papier-mache mask to bring back as a souvenir (Photos: Sarit Ray)

Do see the main attractions, though — the Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the colourful (but touristy) weekend market (a Bhutanese mask makes a great souvenir), and the Changangkha Lhakhang, a 12th century temple. A less-common place to visit is the Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory, where they make all sorts of pretty, pattered paper products using traditional methods.

Inside Thimphu’s Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory. Those are real flowers being turned into paper patterns (Photo: Sarit Ray)

Punakha

Dzongs are such a familiar sight in Bhutan, you might wonder if it’s worth a two-hour drive (and a permit you need to apply for in Thimpu a day prior) to see another one. It is. For Punakha Dzong is magical — sitting at the junction of two rivers, and lined by lavender Jacaranda trees around this time of the year. Walk about, let a friendly monk show you around, and absorb the nearly tangible sense of quiet that surrounds this place.

The Punakha Dzong (Photos: Sarit Ray)

Shangri-La? This could be it.


The story was originally published in Hindustan Times Cafe on June 7, 2015. 
The story and the photos are copyrighted, and may not be re-used without written permission.