You’re going to wipe-out, fall off, and face plant. This is part of the process of surfing, and particularly learning to surf. When you come off, you paddle back out to catch another wave. You don’t try to catch the wave you just fell from; that one’s done. You are learning the skill of surfing. The swell continues to come in, and the contours of sand on the bottom of the ocean will continue to throw up big waves.