The history Behind The Choker

Shivali Jain
4 min readDec 30, 2018
Degas’s “Dancer Onstage with a Bouquet” 1876

Golden choker necklaces were crafted by Sumerian artisans around 2500 BC. Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were made popular by the Princess of Wales in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations, worn to protect what even back then they understood to be a very important part of the body, the neck.

Chokers were common across ancient cultures, and cycled in and out of style during the most recent centuries in the West — prized for their ability both to conceal the neck and to highlight it.

The history of the choker dates back thousands of years, to the world’s earliest civilizations, the Sumer empire in Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt.

Chokers have wound around human necks for thousands of years — symbols, always, of the delicate dance fashion enables between vulnerability and power. Whether worn by people in Western Africa or Egypt or Sumer, the adornments may have served similar purposes. As Yvonne Markowitz, the curator emerita of jewelry at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, told National Jeweler, “a lot of ancient jewelry is protective and amuletic.”

In Western culture, high jewelry chokers are visible here and again throughout history, including during the Renaissance, with portraits from that time showing necklaces being worn high on the throat.

There are several portraits of Queen Victoria (1819–1901) depicting her wearing a choker during her reign and Alexandra,the Princess of Wales (1844–1925), often wore chokers to cover a scar on her neck which is believed to have been from a childhood operation. Princess Alexandra began to have an effect on fashion, setting trends for the next 50 years or so, as society ladies began to copy her. During the Victorian era, wealthy ladies wore chokers as a fashion statement, many of which were adorned with jewels.

The trend for chokers stretched through into the roaring 20s with ladies wearing beaded or ribbon chokers and in the 1940s, chokers made another comeback in the form of “dog collars”. At this time, they were beginning to be made from various materials as well as lace, ribbon, velvet, pearls and diamonds.

In the 1990s, chokers again became fashionable and many celebrities sported them. One of the most memorable types of chokers from this era is the “tattoo” choker. Made of plastic, the “tattoo” choker was “scratchy” at best, but its netted design proved popular among trendsetters and goths.

And so, now, chokers are in style again, gracing the necks of the women (and occasionally the men) who are American culture’s readiest answer to royalty. In recent years chokers have been popular with a number of celebrities including Gwyneth Paltrow who wore one to the 1999 Academy Awards. Paris Hilton wore three inches of Swarovski around her neck in 2002. Rihanna has also been featured wearing chokers.

It’s fascinating to learn how chokers first came about around 500 years ago and how they have changed over the years. Having stood the test of time, it’s evident that chokers are a true fashion icon — and these facts surely tell us that chokers will be around for many years to come.

Name : Shivali Jain

Submitted to : Belinda Ma’am

Subject : Cultural History of Fashion

( Fashion Business Management)

ISDI Parsons, Mumbai

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