Bon Om Touk, Cambodia’s Thrilling Water Festival
A race through time.
Stroke, stroke, stroke! A long, sleek dragon boat cuts swiftly across the still waters of the Tonle Sap like a knife, one of many engaged in a frantic waterborne race.
On board, dozens of oarsmen are bent over in intense concentration as they row in perfectly practised unison, their sinewy arms bulging from the sustained effort.
As its naga-like profile crosses the finish line in a photo finish, cheers erupt from the appreciative crowd gathered along the riverbank as this year’s champion is crowned, their bragging rights assured for the year.
This is Bon Om Touk, the exhilarating Cambodian water festival that is part thanksgiving and part ancient celebration of martial might.
Smoke on the water
Bon Om Touk (literally, “boat-racing festival”) can be traced back to the time of Jayavarman VII, the 12th century ruler widely regarded as the most powerful of the Khmer kings.
The 12th century was a tumultuous time for the Khmer Empire. With Champa to the east and Dai Viet to the north, the Khmer found themselves locked in near-perpetual conflict with one or both of their neighbours, who at times also clashed with each other.
By this time, the long-running wars with the Cham had started to take their toll. What began with a Khmer raid on the Cham city of Kauthara in 950 had escalated into a centuries-long series of tit-for-tat invasions, with neither side able to gain the upper hand.
There were some close calls for the Khmer, though.
After the devastating Battle of Tonle Sap in 1177, which saw Cham warships travel up the Mekong River to Tonle Sap lake, conquer Angkor and kill the Khmer king Tribhuvanadityavarman, the empire was on the brink of collapse.
Amid this chaos, Jayavarman VII emerged to take control. The fiftysomething prince, who had cut his teeth in military campaigns in Champa, united the Khmer under his banner and drove the Cham from his homeland.
A decisive moment in this independence struggle was the defeat of the Cham navy by Khmer forces in 1181, again on Tonle Sap lake.
So important was the victory that it was carved into bas-reliefs on the walls of the Bayon temple in Angkor Thom and Banteay Chhmar — a permanent reminder of the valour shown in that encounter.
It is said that the Khmer kings would thenceforth organise boat races to choose a champion from the navy and to prepare their elite naval forces for battle.
Since then, the Khmer and their descendants, the Cambodians, have taken to the water on the full moon of the 12th lunar month every year to show off their prowess and commemorate their victory over the Cham.
Down to the waterline
Also known as the Cambodian Water Festival, Bon Om Touk is one of the most important celebrations in Cambodia after the Khmer New Year and the ancestor-venerating Pchum Ben.
Falling in late October or early November, it also marks the reversal of flow between the Tonle Sap and the Mekong River, signalling the end of the monsoon season.
For three days, workplaces and schools are shut, and people flock to the capital Phnom Penh or Siem Reap to revel in the festivities.
The largest celebration takes place in Phnom Penh, right where the Mekong River meets the Tonle Sap.
The festivities begin with the royal dragon boat race. Every year, over a million people flood into the capital alone to witness the event, the highlight of Bon Om Touk.
Presided over by the king, the Phnom Penh boat race involves as many as 400 teams from villages across the country. All are competing for the glory of being called the fastest in the land.
The races are a matter of pride for villages, and preparations begin in earnest months in advance. Communities pool their money to make the trip to the capital to watch their team compete and boats are painstakingly made by hand using wood from the koki (Hopea odorata) tree.
The long, narrow pirogues, which float just above the water line, can reach up to 30 metres in length and are manned by 30 to 100 oarsmen led by a coxswain at the bow.
The vessels are brightly painted with the colours of their village and, increasingly in modern times, emblazoned with the logos of corporate sponsors. They are usually decorated with dragons or fish, and some feature eyes on the bow to ward off evil.
Many of the young men participating in the event arrive several days early to practice. They can sometimes be seen standing waist-high in the river, paddling away under the watchful gaze of their trainer as they refine their technique.
On the first two days of the festival, two boats at a time race over the 1.6-kilometre course from the port to the Royal Palace.
On the third day, all the boats race at once, giving rise to sometimes chaotic scenes where crews suffer injuries and even fatalities.
The final day is also when the overall winner is announced, with boats parading past the crowd with dancers dressed as apsaras on the bow.
Let the river run
But it’s not all about the boat races. Over time, Bon Om Touk has shed much of its military aspects, incorporating elements of thanksgiving.
The festival is now also a chance to give thanks to the water goddess Preah Mae Kongkea for her generous bounty. Cambodians believe the deity offers protection and provides sustenance in the form of fish and water for farming.
As a show of gratitude, illuminated floats are sent onto the water at 7pm every night during the three days, accompanied by a fireworks display.
Traditionally, Cambodians would make their own small floats for this ritual, known as Bandaet Pratip, which some historians speculate inspired Thailand’s Loy Krathong festival. Nowadays, it’s more common to see large floats prepared by government ministries and organisations.
On the final night of Bon Om Touk, coinciding with the full moon, locals leave offerings to the moon outside their homes in the form of food, drink and incense. Known as Sampeah Preah Khae (Moon Salutation), these tributes are believed to bring good luck and ensure a bountiful harvest.
On this night, a special dish known as ak ambok is also eaten. Consisting of flattened rice roasted with coconut and banana, it is ritually eaten at the stroke of midnight when Cambodians gather at temples to worship the moon.
Sea within a sea
With boat races, illuminated floats, fireworks, open-air concerts, fun fairs and plenty of food stalls, Bon Om Touk is a festive affair that befits one of Cambodia’s most important celebrations.
But celebrating it can be a dangerous affair, especially in Phnom Penh.
Every year, tens of thousands of visitors throng the Cambodian capital for the hottest ticket of the year. The result? A crush of people — sometimes quite literally.
Fatal stampedes are not unheard of, with large-scale festivities being periodically banned in response. The worst tragedy occurred In 2010, when a crowd surge in Phnom Penh left at least 378 people dead and over 700 injured, leading to a four-year hiatus.
Since then, security and crowd control measures have been improved, and Bon Om Touk is now much safer. The festival remains one of the best ways to experience Cambodia’s rich, vibrant culture and the resilience of its people.
First published in airasia Play on 17 Nov 2023.