Origin of Biryani

Nambi Sankaran
3 min readApr 4, 2020

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TLDR; Not the word, but the origin of the dish

Muslim Invaders are generally given credit for the popular south indian dish “Biryani”. The story goes as follows,

The word Biryani is derived from the Persian word Birian, which means ‘fried before cooking’ and Birinj, the Persian word for rice. There are various theories related to the origin of this scrumptious dish. Many historians believe that biryani originated from Persia and was brought to India by the Mughals. Biryani was further developed in the Mughal royal kitchen.

Please note that historians “believe” that biryani originated in Persia and came to India.

But where did Biryani originate?

Contrary to the “beliefs” of the historians, Biryani originated in South India.

Let’s look into ancient Tamil Literature “ Pura-Nanuru” for some clues.

Pura-Nanuru

Purananuru is one of the oldest compilation of poems in the world, which contains 400 poems sung by 167 poets. These poems were composed between 200 BCE to 200 CE.

Verse 33 — Cholan Nalan-killi

The soldiers were fed “oon-soru” (meat rice) next to their camps.

This verse was written by “Kovoor Kilar” about the Chola King NalanKilli after he captured a seven layered fort held by the Pandyan. NalanKilli emblazoned the Tiger symbol on the fort. After doing so, the soldiers were fed “oon-soru” (meat rice) in their camps”

Oon Soru was provided by Chola King NalanKilli to his military.

Verse 113 — Death of Vel Pari

Pari Vel used to offer “oon soru” with goat meat along with liquor.

This verse was written by “Kapilar”, after “Vel Pari” was killed by the treachery of Chera, Chola and Pandya kings. “Pari Vel” was a great giver like Karna and known to give to anyone came to him.

After his death, Kabilar is lamenting that who will feed us “oon soru” made with goat meat and offer us liquor.

Oon Soru ( Biryani )

So far, we saw two references of “Oon Soru” in Pura-Nanuru.

The first reference mentions that “Oon Soru” was fed to the soldiers after the war. The era of Nalankilli is 115 BCE. Moghuls (Mongols) invaded India in 1526. NalanKilli fed “Oon Soru” to his troops, 16 centuries earlier.

The Second reference mentions that “Vel Pari” fed “Oon Soru” and “Liquor” to his guests. So, this confirms the fact that “Oon Soru” was offered by the Kings.

It is highly possible that the Mongols hired a South Indian chef to prepare “Oon Soru” for their mercenaries. Since, many of these mercenaries hailed from Persia, they could have named this dish “Biryani”.

Most Indian historians are not aware of Tamil history and literature, so, they may have “believed” that “Biryani” comes from Persia, based on the persian name “Biryani”. This is an error due to lack of knowledge.

By the way, there are more references of “Oon Soru” in Tamil Literature.

Conclusion

We can safely conclude that “Oon Soru” originated in South India. “Biryani” is simply a persian name for “Oon Soru”.

References

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purananuru

http://www.tamilvu.org/library/nationalized/pdf/59-puliyurkesigan/010.purananuru.pdf

https://www.news18.com/news/lifestyle/food-from-persia-to-your-plate-origin-history-and-types-of-biryani-1336569.html

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Nambi Sankaran

Self taught software engineer, technologist. interested in finding the truth irrespective of the subject.