La Purito is all about the climbs. The longest of three routes has six of them, punctuated by five descents–though the downhill sections are over so quickly it’s really just the climbs which leave a lasting impression. On August 5 2018, I took part along with 2,500 others. If you’re planning to do it, or if you enjoy the idea of other people suffering, read on!
Designed by Joaquim Rodríguez for the 2015 Vuelta a España, this route has gone down in the annals as being perhaps the toughest stage of any grand tour, ever.
Mikel Landa went on to win that dramatic stage in a ridiculous four and a half hours; we would be granted an additional seven for the event and I had a feeling I’d need every last one of them.
08:00am: climb #1
From the moment I clipped in we were headed upwards. The first 11km took the field gently up 300m of elevation from Sant Julià de Lòria, along the cool valley floor to the parish of Encamp where the real climbing begins.
The day before the event I’d tested my legs on a quick reconnaissance of the first col, the Collada de Beixalís, so I knew what was coming: a category 2 climb, around seven kilometres with an average gradient of 8%. The tarmac on this first obstacle is excellent and on fresh legs in the morning sun it’s really enjoyable.
Saying that, on event day, a lot of riders fell foul of “start line mania”, thrashing themselves too much before they’d hit the foot of the climb proper–and once they began stumbling and pinging out of their pedals there was no easy clipping back in on those initial, busy hairpins. I was happy I’d held back–it kept me full of energy and able to scoot past traffic jams.
10:00am: climb #2
Two hours into the event and I was feeling pretty chipper; one climb was crossed off, temperatures were pleasant (especially on the shaded northern mountain flanks between Ordino and Canillo) and the Andorran scenery was spectacular.
By this time the crowds were heading up the Coll d’Ordino to the first of the refreshments stations, and what a sight greeted our tiring eyes upon crossing the summit–a perfect vision of calories and chemical toilets, situated atop a grassy alpine plateau.
The descent down into Canillo was our first reminder that La Purito is not a closed-road event. Cars ambitiously trying to make their way up the hairpins found themselves confronted by a sea of red lycra and squealing brakes.
Once onto the main road at the bottom there’s a further 15km of downhill all the way back to the start line. Care and attention are definitely needed on this section–whilst there are signs to warn traffic, and the groups of cyclists are still clumped closely enough together to be very visible, there are roundabouts, dual carriageways, uneven surfaces, and drainage features to negotiate, on what is a very fast descent. My rear tyre suffered an impact puncture after hitting an inspection cover at speed, forcing a repair stop just before Andorra la Vella. This slowed me down a bit, but as I wasn’t going for a specific time there was no point getting stressed about all the red jerseys flying past me.
11:50am: climb #3
I briefly stopped off at a garage to pump some decent pressure into my new tube, then continued on to where Sant Julià de Lòria awaited, now basking in the midday sun, pointing riders up towards the Coll de la Rabassa. This was climb number three, the halfway point, and whereas the La Purito event organisers list it as a category 1 ascent, everywhere else I’ve checked lists it as being 13km of hors catégorie (uncategorised) pleasure. Strava marks some segments on this climb as being 15%, and those very steep stretches begin immediately.
The temperature differences were notable in Andorra. The short stints lower down in the valley were very warm after mid-morning, but with every 100m climbed there was a marked drop in the heat. Breezes up on the tops combined with soaking wet gear became a strangely motivating factor in getting up the gradients.
It’s fair to say that by this stage–around 70km and 3,000m of elevation–I was starting to feel it, and was mindful of keeping calories and fluid levels up. Natural springs on this climb were very welcome–not a single participant cycled past uninterested.
01:45pm: climb #4
With another mountain summited, and another refreshments station abused (two fistfuls of jelly babies really didn’t seem unreasonable at the time), I headed down into the valley once again. This 15km descent was particularly enjoyable with its wide vistas, empty roads, and long corners. Temperatures rose as my heart rate settled, and with a smile on my face I freewheeled through the town again, like a lamb to the slaughter, to the lower slopes of the Collada de la Gallina.
My bike computer registered 45°C as I passed between the buildings at the start of the climb, and it certainly felt that hot. But looking down at the race details taped to my crossbar I could see that just eleven or so kilometres separated me from the top of the climb and the next refreshments stop. Easy!
Of all the La Purito climbs, this is the one I remember most vividly. About halfway up I noticed riders cycling back down.
“Strange” I thought, “I was sure this was a circular route, evidently we have to summit this col and ride back down”.
It is a circular route. The riders passing in the other direction had thought better of it and turned around. A couple of kilometres further and the penny dropped. Sustained sections of 18% left no alternative but to get out of the saddle, hit the lowest gear I had, and grind for all I was worth. Zig-zagging across the tarmac is the only way to get up it, and if I’d have stopped I don’t think I’d have been able to get my wheels turning again.
So it was with great satisfaction that I passed the photographer at the top and stuffed my mouth (and jersey pockets) with more jelly babies.
04:00pm: climb #5
Clouds were forming as I made my way, with a thinning group, back up the valley towards the penultimate climb. Raindrops fell, thunder rumbled, and temperatures dropped. Alto de la Comella is much shorter than the climbs we’d already done, coming in just shy of 500m elevation gain, but the gradients felt very familiar by now, and having taken me more than 115km and up 4,000m my legs no longer saw the funny side.
Shortly before the top, another refreshments stand was perfectly timed, though the atmosphere by this point, whilst enjoyable, was distinctly less energetic than previous stops. There was no hanging around–food went in, bottles were filled, and I was off again towards the only thing I could think about: the next refreshments stop.
05:30pm: climb #6
One last stop in Encamp, on what were now wet roads, and I was off up the final climb of the day. The finish line was almost within touching distance: just 10km and 800m of climbing. I’d long since stopped taking photos, I just needed to get up that hill. If you’re an average rider like me, at this point swathes of finishers (often wrapped in cardboard to keep themselves warm) will be hurtling past you in the other direction–this one does require you to summit and turn around. Together with locals lining the road you’ll hear them call “Animo!”, encouraging you up the final obstacle.
06:35pm
Simultaneous cramp in both hamstrings slowed me down on the upper slopes, but a bit of discomfort is just part of the deal, and knowing how close the finish was I almost relished the feeling. The final few kilometres gradually lessen in severity so I pushed on at the same speed as everyone around me, and eventually, one by one, we crossed the line at 2,083m on the chilly summit of Els Cortals d’Encamp.
La Purito is in its infancy, but it’s a superb and well organised event. For details about the routes, dates, and registration, visit the website or follow the man himself on Twitter and Instagram.
