Plain Walking

Most summers will find me in the Croatian town of Stari Grad (meaning old town) on the beautiful island of Hvar.

The town was founded by Greeks from Paros in c384BC and originally named Faros. The ancient name is remembered each year through the Faros Marathon, a 16km swim starting and ending at the town end of Stari Grad’s four nautical mile long bay.

Within the town there are traces of both Greek and later Roman settlements. But it is what is know as Stari Grad Plain which is the real jewel in the crown. The Plain is an area of approximately 6 by 3.5 kilometres comprising 74 parcels of land separated by dry stone walls and irrigation channels. It’s barely changed in its 2,400 years of existence and still grows the same crops of manly grapes and olives. Every so often there are small stone houses known as trims which were used for storage.

Across the longer aspect of the Plain, there is an unmade road linking Stari Grad to the town of Vrboska. This road make for a peaceful and delightful, though extremely hot, walk. En route, if you wish, there is the diversion of the remains of a Roman villa, complete with olive press (see picture).

The slopes above the Plain are home to all manner of wildlife including wild boar. Snakes and other creatures may cross your path depending on the time of day.

The walk across the Plain is thoroughly recommended if only for the fact that you feel lost in time. Most of the walk has little to identify that you are in the 21st century. It’s almost as if you are back in time just a few decades before the birth of Alexander the Great. The Plain itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is well deserved.

Just one tip. Remember to take plenty of water!