Stepping Into The Oldest City In Germany
It’s 8:00 AM and I am rolling in bed. Mentally drained, devoid of energy (or so it seems), and with a motivation to get up that barely exists. It is a national bank holiday, and of all the “fun” things I could be doing, I start by heading to the laundromat to poorly wash and poorly dry my clothes. For fifty minutes, I read What I Talk About When I Talk About Running by Haruki Murakami. No, I don’t get inspired to write a book. Or run. Instead, I feel frustrated by my lack of initiative, my failure to engage in long-term activities with uncertain outcomes. And unpredictable results. Why write a book that might not be published? Why run every day if I’m not competing with anyone? I dislike competing. It reveals a part of myself that I don’t particularly like. It is not that I dislike losing, I don’t actually mind losing, but, if that’s the case, you can bet I will beat myself up and think of everything else I could have done but didn’t.
So, I got in the car and made a decision: I am going to Trier. By myself. Just because it has been saved on my Google Maps for long, it is about a two-hour drive, and I am an adult. An independent and autonomous woman who can enjoy her own company. If I woke up late and can’t spend the entire day in Trier, I can at least enjoy the afternoon. That’s better than nothing. That will suffice.
Off we go. Dried clothes in the trunk and coffee in the car cup holder. It is a beautiful day. A sunny one. A mix of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran takes over my playlist. Could be worse. I am a romantic, and I am dating myself.
I arrive in Trier by lunchtime. Park the car and walk to Porta Nigra, the main highlights I would like to visit. On my way there, I stop by the Main Market to have something to eat.
The Main Market, or Hauptmarkt, is the main city square and a bustling heart of the city. All around you see an array of vibrant and colorful facades, and impressive architectural details! In the middle of the square is the Market Cross, a replica of the original erected in 958 AD, which symbolizes the city’s historical significance and autonomy.
All over the the square, cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating offer a perfect spot to relax and soak in the vibrant ambiance. Overall, Hauptmarkt is like a central hub for both locals and tourists, making it an ideal starting point for exploring Trier’s historical sites.
I make my way towards the northern entrance of Trier, presided over by Porta Nigra, a big construction looming just at the end of the a street dotted with half-timbered buildings. I love them.
Half-timbered refers to a method of building construction in which the wooden frame of a structure is exposed, with the spaces between the wooden beams filled with materials such as brick, plaster, or wattle and daub (a mixture of woven wooden strips covered with a combination of soil, clay, straw, and sometimes animal dung). The wooden beams are often arranged in decorative patterns, offering a sneak peak into how they were crafted.
The art is there to be shown and admired, and it was indeed admired until my attention was stolen by the Black Gate.
Porta Nigra, or the Black Gate, is a Roman city gate dating back to around 170 AD and one of the most iconic landmarks in Trier. It stands as a testament to the city’s importance during the Roman Empire and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The name Porta Nigra comes from the darkened color of its sandstone blocks, a result of centuries of weathering. The gate consists of two large towers connected by a central section with multiple floors, with the upper ones offering stunning views of the city.
Originally part of a larger defensive wall, Porta Nigra served first as a grand entrance to the city and a symbol of its prosperity, and later, during the medieval period, as a church and fortress. Yes, a church!
In the 11th century, the Greek monk Simeon of Trier chose to live as a hermit inside the Porta Nigra. After his death, he was canonized, and the gate converted into the Church of St. Simeon. Modifications were made and kept to turn this Roman military structure into a place of Christian worship until the early 19th century when, under Napoleon’s orders, the building was restored to its original Roman appearance.
Still, next to Porta Nigra in Trier, you’ll find the Simeonstift, originally built to serve as a monastery dedicated to Saint Simeon. Now, it houses the City Museum Simeonstift, which artifacts and exhibits span from ancient Roman times through the medieval period and into the modern era. The museum is not specially appealing. It is imperative to have an audio guide to be able to properly understand what you are seeing and why. However, the pateo is really nice if one needs to do a pit stop amidst the confusion of the streets.
Fully recharged, I came back to Hauptmarkt, and head towards Trier Cathedral, the oldest Christian church in Germany!
The story goes that after Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity in the Roman Empire in AD 312, his mother allowed part of her palace to be used as the first church on this spot. In AD 326, to celebrate the anniversary of his reign, Constantine began the construction of two great churches: St. Peter’s in Rome and this huge cathedral in Trier.
As I wander through Trier Cathedral’s ancient halls, I am transported back in time. The cathedral is a patchwork of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture, quietly enclosing a shrine that is believed to contain a Holy Robe worn by Jesus Christ. Beyond its historical significance, Trier Cathedral hosts concerts, exhibitions, and other events that breathe new life into its halls. It is a lively old church standing still in a lively old city.
Back to the streets, I quickly check the time and Maps. I want to explore the Baths and the Amphitheater but no time for both, thus I clumsily through a coin and… Amphitheater here we go!
On my way there, I came to cross this beautiful garden full of people enjoying themselves: chatting, sunbathing, reading books, playing cards, volley, kids running around… I felt drawn to it. I felt like stopping and just enjoying being surrounded by cheerful souls, warming up the blood in my veins, feeling the grass in my feet. That’s living too.
The garden belongs to the Rococo Palace, also known as the Electoral Palace. Legend has it that the Rococo Palace’s extravagant design was inspired by a bet between rival architects to see who could create the most over-the-top building. On the left side of the picture, you can see the Basilica of Constantine, also known as the Aula Palatina, built by Constantine, the Great, in the early 4th century.
The Basilica originally serve as an imperial audience hall and its size and brickwork are beyond impressive, reason why the basilica stands today as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Past the garden, I crossed a bridge, walked a bit more and… Amphitheater, I am seeing you!
Trier Amphitheater, also known as the Arena, was built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Emperor Augustus, and is one of the largest Roman amphitheaters ever constructed north of the Alps.
It boasts an impressive elliptical shape with towering stone walls that once accommodated up to 20,000 spectators. This served as the epicenter of entertainment and cultural gatherings in Roman Trier, showcasing a diverse array of events ranging from gladiatorial contests to animal hunts.
Excavations conducted over the years have unearthed fascinating artifacts, including weapons, coins, and fragments of ancient pottery, and the amphitheater’s strategic location near the Roman city walls speaks to its importance as a symbol of Roman power and influence in the region.
It is truly amazing. To visit the underground cellar, the tunnels and to think of the tears of joy and pain, of the sweat and the blood that once soaked that same floor we stand in… it’s a call for humility.
As my day in Trier comes to an end, I am filled with a deep sense of contentment. From the imposing Porta Nigra to the serene gardens of the Rococo Palace, and the ancient Trier Cathedral, each landmark tells a story that bridges the past with the present. Walking through Trier, I felt a connection to the countless generations that have walked these same streets. Was the short trip worth it? Totally yes. Trier is a joyful city, a living museum, a testament to history’s enduring presence, capable indeed of boosting even the darkest spirit.
