A Russian Day in Paris: What to Do, Where to Eat, Without Ever Leaving the French Capital
The Franco-Russian cultural interchange dates back centuries, with Russia long having a coup de coeur for French culture, exemplified through the influence its had in Russian literature, architecture, art... Cultural interchange also constitutes an example of soft power, and France is one of Russia’s most prominent examples in Western Europe due to their long-lasting bilateral relations and the major Russian emigration wave in the 1920s.
A longtime favourite destination for the Russian elites and political exiles, France and its culture influenced literary giants such as Pushkin, Tolstoy, artists such as Chagall and Soutine, or Diaghilev, the founder of the legendary ‘Ballets Russes.’ The depth of the interchange also permeates the language with the Russian elite primarily speaking French and words such as ‘bistrot’, designating small and moderately priced restaurants, allegedly stemming from the Russian word for ‘fast’ or ‘quickly,’ originated from Russian troops that occupied France during the Napoleonic Wars.
The recently inaugurated Orthodox Church that stands in the shadows of the Eiffel Tower, proves that Russian cultural diplomacy is very well alive in Paris. Here is a list of some of the most prominent Russian cultural heritage sites, restaurants, and other attractions. So indulge in some authentic vodka, discover Soviet-era art, and brush up on your literary knowledge — all without setting foot outside of the capital.
Holy Trinity Cathedral — Located in the 7th arrondissement, the Cathedral’s five gilded domes are a glistening sight right under the Eiffel Tower. Inaugurated in 2016, this cathedral also doubles as the Russian Orthodox spiritual and cultural centre. Symbolising one of the latest signs of friendship between Russia and France, the cathedral also has a bookstore, an open space for hosting temporary exhibitions, and a coffee shop.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral — If you’re looking for a more authentically Russian spiritual and architectural experience, this cathedral checks off all the boxes. Consecrated in 1861, it is a jewel of the Byzantine style and for years a hotspot for the Russian population in Paris — even hosting the wedding of Pablo Picasso and Olga Khokhlova, and funeral ceremonies for artistic geniuses such as filmmaker Andrei Tarkovsky and painter Wassily Kandinsky.
St Sergius Church — Located in the 19th arrondissement, in the area known as Crimée (Crimea — aptly), this church is smaller and more discreet, lacking the traditional golden domes. Yet its medieval architectural style is unique characterised by its pyramidal silhouette and the prominent use of materials such as wood. It’s an interesting change of scenery for architecture and culture lovers alike.
The Russian Center for Science and Culture — This cultural centre hosts more than 100 events per year, inducing art shows, concerts, book fairs, conferences etc. In addition, it also has a large book and video library of Russian works. It also hosts the Russian Conservatory Alexander Scriabin offering music lessons for various instruments including the typical Russian balalaika, as well as seasonal concerts.
Zadkine Museum — Considered one of the most important Cubist sculptors of the 20th century, this museum was established by the artist’s wife, Valentine Prax, who donated over 300 sculptures, as well as drawings, photographs and tapestries. Located near the iconic area of Montparnasse, which hosted many famous artists during the 1920s, the museum is a hidden jewel, offering a calm atmosphere from the bustle of the city.
Turgeniev Museum — If you have the drive to venture outside of Parisian inner-city limits, make sure to check out this museum established for the literary genius Ivan Turgenev. This half-Russian half-Swiss style chalet was the writer’s abode until his death in 1883. The museum also offers Russian lessons and Russian tea served in the traditional samovar as well as cakes.
Librairie du Globe — To complete your Russophile tour of Paris head over to this Russian bookstore located near Bastille. With its impressive stock of Russian books, as well as French and English translations, immerse yourself in Russian literature from the classics to the contemporaries. If you don’t feel like picking up a book, check out their wide array of posters and Russian DVDs. The bookstore also hosts film screenings, book signings, and roundtables.
Ikra — Where else in Paris can you be serenaded by musicians playing traditional Russian music and drink vodka out of ice shots? Ikra offers the best of Russian cuisine with its different varieties of vodka and caviar. For an authentic experience, try the Olivier Salad (which is everything but a salad) and pelmeni (dumplings filled with meat or vegetables) served with a dollop of sour cream.
Série Limithée Paris Moscou — A Russian caterer opened by two sisters, Série Limithée Paris Moscou offers authentic Russian dishes in a cosy atmosphere at reasonable prices. Be sure to try their different varieties of pirozhki (baked or fried buns) stuffed with meat, vegetables, or fruits.
Café Pouchkine — A legendary and opulent address: this French-style café serves aristocratic Russian cuisine. Its opulent interior design will transport you back to the time of the Tsars. If you’re having lunch there, an absolute must is their Kamchatka crab salad, borscht, or beef stroganoff. During tea time or just as a snack, don’t forget to try their famous macarons.
