An Architectural Pilgrimage Vol. II
Lincoln, Norwich (C of E), Norwich (RC), Guildford, Aldershot, and Winchester Cathedral
As stated in the first volume, I am on a journey to visit all 98 cathedrals in the UK, take pictures, learn their histories, and share my thoughts. The more cathedrals I visit, the more I realise how different they all are. In this article alone, they all have different colour palettes, atmospheres, shapes, building materials and stories. This volume in particular has taken me from the Midlands, to East Anglia and the South — beginning with Lincoln:
Lincoln Cathedral
30/12/23
Driving into the city, the Cathedral stands proud and prominent on a large hill looming over the city. It is a sight to behold. I parked in Castle Car Park which is located between the Cathedral and Lincoln Castle. Just outside the entrance is a charming, cobbled street that presents an image of quintessential medieval England. It feels removed from modernity and a welcome depiction of a quieter lifestyle.
The building is similar in shape to the one in Truro, yet somehow grander and on a more epic scale. The similarities between Lincoln and Truro Cathedral make sense as the same architect who was appointed “to design and restore the north transept, part of the south-west tower, the chapter-house and cloister” was also the architect of Truro Cathedral. (Trurocathedral.org)
Walking through the arch, you enter the cathedral green and are confronted with a feat of masonry. So much detail is packed into a grandiose wall, with two towers emerging from above.
General admission was £11 which included the opportunity to join a regularly scheduled tour, and an annual pass. I am more than happy to pay to visit these places when they are reasonable priced, encourage multiple visits and use the money to upkeep our national heritage.
Inside, there was so much open, empty space — especially in the Crossing — that some areas felt a bit underutilised. Not necessarily a negative, but a comment on its expansive nature. Though perhaps slightly exaggerated in editing, the interior was very warm in tone, with rich oranges and browns bouncing off the walls.
The one thing that stood out in this cathedral, aside from the enormity of it, was the abundance of stained glass windows, and their intricacies. They were all so colourful, bright, and detailed, displaying different stories and notable religious figures.
My favourite part of Lincoln Cathedral was the Chapter House. Attached via the cloister, it is a separate, cyclical room with a centre pillar and bench seats all around. It has its own unique atmosphere, removed from the rest of the cathedral — it is quieter as it is usually empty when you enter. According to the visitor leaflet, it was built in the early 13th century where it hosted parliaments in the 1300s.
There is so much to see, that one visit is not enough. Luckily the ticket is good for 1 year, so I will be visiting again for the tour, and to learn even more — especially as my first visit was somewhat rushed. If you visit, be on the lookout for the famous Lincoln Imp, a grotesque hiding inside the cathedral walls.
Norwich Cathedral (C of E)
22/01/24
Norwich is a really nice city, full of independent shops, an outdoor covered market, and home to two cathedrals — one Anglican and one Catholic. I visited the Church of England cathedral first, in the golden hour, as the sun was setting. Approaching the entrance, the sun could be seen radiating the tower which happens to be the second tallest cathedral tower in England, after the one in Salisbury Cathedral.
Norwich Cathedral is also home to the second largest cloister in England, again surpassed by Salisbury Cathedral. On the green, there is a labyrinth that the pamphlet states has a “path like the path of life, reflecting its many twists and turns”. The church dates back to 1096 where it was originally a Benedictine monastery and displays one of Europe’s finest examples of Romanesque architecture. (Norwich Cathedral Website)
At every angle, the spire towers above all. As it started to get darker, I entered. The warm lights lit up the interior, contrasting well with the dark blue sky coming through the windows.
The Choir separates the nave and the presbytery, partitioning the building.
The Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Norwich) (RC)
23/01/24
Norwich’s catholic cathedral, known as the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, is a classic example of gothic revival architecture. It is also one of my favourites I have visited so far. For those interested, the parking is very tight and there are few spaces so if you were to visit, I would suggest going on a weekday early in the morning or when there are no services on.
The dingy stone, the pointy aesthetics and gargoyles all scream gothic — especially from this angle, it looks like a classic gothic castle.
Inside, the lights shining on the limestone produced an amazing green hue. It felt like the cathedral had been carved out of rock — the best way to describe the feel of the space is cavernous. I could not stop looking up at all the converging lines, arches and pillars drenched in a cool lime green.
The High Altar sits in the centre of the Crossing, open for all to see, whether you sit in the North or South Transept, or the Nave. It is completed with a large crucifix suspended above, a staple addition to a catholic cathedral.
It was so nice to see that, although welcome to tourists and visitors, the cathedral has remained primarily a place of worship. It was the first cathedral I have visited so far that felt like it was still in use for prayer, and not just a historical site — many people were in the pews in individual silent prayer. Of course all the other cathedrals have their worshippers and their services, but Norwich’s catholic community seemed very present, as they took full advantage of this incredible space.
Built as a result of Henry Fitzalan Howard’s generosity as a way to express his thankfulness to God for his happy marriage, the construction shows there were no expenses spared. It truly is a gothic cathedral. The cathedral’s website has a great hidden places tour video which explores a few of the places that aren’t readily open to the public.
Guildford Cathedral
01/02/24
The Cathedral Church of the Holy Spirit, more commonly known as Guildford Cathedral, is a comparatively modern church. Building began in 1936, but 3 years in, the Second World War halted its construction. Work restarted in 1954 with the Buy a Brick fundraising campaign. As there was very little money available, the community came together and funded the project, literally brick by brick. It is a lovely story of community spirit and togetherness after two horrific wars. The cathedral was finally consecrated on 17th May 1961. Despite being consecrated, construction was not completed until 1966.
The cathedral sits on a big hill like many others, with a long drive leading up to the front entrance. The outside is mostly built out of bricks, but the interior has a more interesting story. The architect, Sir Edward Maufe, combined traditional and modern building techniques, including the use of high level cast in-situ concrete.
“The cross pictured above was erected on Stag Hill to mark the site of the new Cathedral in April 1933. It was made from teak timbers from the battleship HMS Ganges.” (https://www.guildford-cathedral.org/learn/history/foundations)
Though aesthetically different to many cathedrals or churches in England, I love the interior of Guildford’s cathedral. Its simple design, the white and light-grey colour palette makes the space feel enormous. It is an uncluttered and entirely adaptable room.
The sunny day only helped add to the bright and airy atmosphere.
Cathedral Church of St Michael and St George (Aldershot) (RC)
01/02/24
This Roman Catholic cathedral in the military town of Aldershot serves as the catholic cathedral for the Bishopric of the Forces. It was initially “intended as the principal church for the Anglican chaplaincies of the British Army”, but due to the Church of England having too many underused churches in the area and a rise in catholic soldiers, the church was handed over and dedicated to St Michael and St George. (National Churches Trust)
Though rather unimpressive on the outside, the church within felt cosy. There are adornments, leaflets and decorations everywhere. When I visited, the place was completely empty, yet it felt warm and inviting. The wooden ceiling looks like an upturned ships hull, pairing well with the stone arches. Similar to Guildford’s, the military ties to Aldershot Cathedral are significant and ever present.
The clear glass windows above the arches allowed a lot of light to enter, making it feel warmer. Many cathedrals can feel cold as a result of their size and darkness but Aldershot’s feels more like a local church, which has its own charms.
Winchester Cathedral
15/02/24
I found Winchester to be an odd place. It has many remnants of an old market town clashing with modernity. I spent 15 mins queuing up to get into a car park — I have no idea why it was so busy.
The cathedral green is a beautiful centrepiece for the city. The building has space to breathe, to impose itself, and to act as a backdrop for those walking round town or having picnics on the grass.
Winchester Cathedral has leaned more into the idea of being a tourist destination as opposed to a place of worship which is not a bad thing. Catering towards a more historic angle, and charging £12.50 for adults for an annual pass, pays for the upkeep of this culturally significant building. Though it sometimes retracts from the religious aura that you can imagine the place once had, having exhibitions, tours, and dozens of staff onsite passing on interesting facts, increases the footfall and helps maintain some of our heritage.
The Festival of the Moon exhibition was on when I visited. A giant moon was hung in the centre of the nave and lit up — I would have preferred it not to be there when taking photographs, but as a work of art, it was impressive. What is still more impressive though, is the original masonry all around the interior. At the High Altar, there is a 15th century screen covered with intricately carved 19th century statues. This and the West Window are definitely the stand-out features of Winchester Cathedral.
According to the pamphlet, the West Window was “destroyed by Parliamentary troops during the English Civil War, rebuilt in 1660 using shattered glass from around the Cathedral.” I have been collecting the pamphlets as I go along and they all tend to have a floor plan in them. It was only until now that I have noticed that all the altars face East, and having searched why, I have discovered that there are many theories of why this is. Some say it was a custom to pray in the direction of Jerusalem and others suggest it is because “Christ’s second coming was expected to be from the east”. (Wikipedia) Either way, it seems to be the norm when constructing churches and is a rule that is followed everywhere possible.
As a final note, I have noticed an improvement in my photography as I start to get back into the swing of things after a 2–3 year hiatus. As the weather improves, and there is better lighting in these typically dark cathedrals, the shots become crisper, less noisy and better looking. This project has got me back out there doing the things I love — learning and making art.
England
Aldershot, Arundel, Birmingham (C of E), Birmingham (RC), Blackburn, Bradford, Brentwood, Bristol, St Edmundsbury (Bury), Canterbury, Carlisle, Chelmsford, Chester, Chichester, Clifton, Coventry, Derby, Durham, Ely, Exeter, Gloucester, Guilford, Hereford, Lancaster, Leeds, Leicester, Lichfield, Lincoln, Liverpool, Liverpool Metropolitan, London (St Pauls), London (RC), Manchester, Middlesborough, Newcastle (C of E), Newcastle (RC), Norwich (C of E), Norwich (RC), Northampton, Nottingham, Oxford, Peel, Peterborough, Plymouth, Portsmouth (C of E), Portsmouth (RC), Ripon, St Albans, Salford, Salisbury, Sheffield (C of E), Sheffield (RC), Shrewsbury, Southwark (C of E), Southwark — St Georges Cathedral (RC), Southwell Minster, Truro, Wakefield, Wells, Westminster, Winchester, Worcester, York Minster.
Scotland
Aberdeen, Ayr, Dornoch, Dundee, Edinburgh St Mary’s Episcopal, Edinburgh St Giles, Glasgow, Glasgow — St Mary’s Cathedral, Inverness, Millport, Motherwell, Oban, Paisley, Perth.
Wales
Bangor, Brecon, Cardiff, Llandaff, Newport, St Asaph, St David’s, Swansea, Wrexham.
Northern Ireland
Armagh — St Patrick’s (A), Armagh — St Patrick’s (RC), Belfast — St Annes (A), Belfast — St Peter’s (RC), Clogher — St Macartans, Derry — St Columb’s, Down Cathedral, Dromore Cathedral, Enniskillen — St Marcartin’s, St Eugene’s, Lisburn — Christ Church, Newry Cathedral.
10/98 cathedrals completed.
All photographs and images are my own and I reserve the rights to them (except those stated otherwise)
