Modernity and Museums
Day 2: Jordan Museum, Abdali Boulevard
The morning in Amman unveiled itself with a grey, rain-kissed sky, setting a tranquil yet sombre tone for the day. Reluctant to wander too far in the drizzle, I started my day with a cosy breakfast at a charming café nestled on Rainbow Street. As I sipped my tea, the pitter-patter of raindrops played a soothing rhythm, preparing me for a day of indoor exploration. With any outdoor exploration ruled out because of the weather, my destination for today was the esteemed Jordan Museum, a short walk away from my hotel. Standing amidst its gardens, I looked around to see the city of Amman spread out on all of the hills surrounding the museum. Hills and valleys characterise Amman’s topography, a city where neighbourhoods usually have jabal (mountain) or wadi (valley) prefixed to their name.
Established in 2014, the Jordan Museum is a treasure trove of antiquities, with two exhibits of exceptional significance: the Dead Sea Scrolls, a collection of ancient manuscripts that offer invaluable insights into the religious beliefs and practices of the time, and the Ain Ghazal statues, one of the oldest known human statues ever found. Their presence in the museum speaks volumes of the deep-rooted history of human settlement and artistic endeavour in this region, a land that has been at the forefront of agriculture, trade, culture, and religion.
The museum’s exhibits are arranged in a chronological order, with visitors prodded along a fascinating timeline that spans millennia. All of the exhibits had detail in both English and Arabic, and as I made my way out of the museum a couple of hours later, I had in me a renewed understanding and admiration of Jordan’s rich history. This sliver of land embracing the Jordan River has forever been a crossroads of civilizations, a melting pot of cultures, religions, and empires. From the ancient whispers of the Nabateans to the profound echoes of the Roman Empire, every stone and artifact here tells a story of survival, conquest, and innovation. It’s a land where history is not just remembered, but deeply felt — in its hills, its streets, and most enduringly, in the spirit of its people. Jordan, a bridge between seas and deserts, has not just witnessed history; it has been an active participant in the shaping of our human story.
Waiting for my next ride in the museum’s gardens, I gazed out over Amman’s hills, spotting the Citadel and the Umayyad Palace shrouded in low clouds. While tomorrow’s forecast promised clearer skies for exploring these ancient sites, today’s chill nudged me towards a warmer, indoor destination — Abdali, a symbol of Amman’s evolving identity. This modern district, replete with malls, residences, and swanky hotels, stands as a stark contrast to the historic relics I had been admiring, showcasing the city’s remarkable ability to blend the old with the new.
Located right at the heart of Amman, the Abdali project is a tribute to former monarch King Abdullah I, brought to life following a significant meeting between the former Lebanese Prime Minister and business magnate, Rafic Hariri, and Jordan’s King Abdullah II. This ambitious initiative was envisioned to transform Amman into a commercial and financial nucleus of the Middle East, serving as a beacon of hope amid troubled neighbours: Palestine, Israel, Syria, and Lebanon. In a nation like Jordan, grappling with limited natural resources and water scarcity, the stable government, human capital, and favourable economic conditions stand as pillars of potential, drawing in investment. Today, Abdali buzzes as the new epicentre of business and luxury. Walking its streets, flanked by gleaming skyscrapers on both sides, I passed the offices of major tech and consulting firms from around the world, all marking their presence in Jordan. Between these corporate giants and the bustling retail spaces winds the Abdali Boulevard, a pedestrian-friendly artery besotted with high-end stores and restaurants. As I settled beneath a canopy to enjoy a coffee, the diversity of Jordan’s population was unmistakable: Syrians, Lebanese, Palestinians, and others, all in various stages of life, walked by, each a living chapter of not just Jordan’s rich, multifaceted story, but of the Levant as a whole.
Despite years of regional turmoil and challenges, Jordan’s resilience vividly manifests in the dynamic landscape of Abdali. Amidst the architectural symphony of its towering skyscrapers and the energetic rhythm of urban life, Abdali stands as a proud testament to the nation’s enduring spirit and unwavering determination. As the day gradually yielded to the evening’s embrace, the streets of Abdali buzzed with an amplified vitality, resonating with the footsteps of locals and visitors alike.
Making my way back to the hotel, I was enveloped by the rich tapestry of history that blankets every corner of Amman. The city, alive with its myriad stories, seemed to whisper tales of the past through its very streets. As I ascended to the hotel’s terrace, a serene calm of the evening air greeted me, filled with the sounds of birds returning to their nests, blending harmoniously with the call of the azaan emanating from mosques scattered across the metropolis.
In that moment of quiet reflection, my gaze was drawn to the distant Raghadan Hill, where the Jordanian flag fluttered proudly against the evening sky. Deriving its design from the pan-Arab flag used during the Great Arab Revolt of 1916, it stood as a powerful symbol of unity, hope, and peace, an emblematic beacon amidst the uncertainty and turbulence of the times. Yet this land has always been a site of conquest and competing empires — and tomorrow, I will be heading to the site that stands as a testament to it all — the Citadel of Amman.
