BEIRUT: The capital of Lebanon
Originally known as Berytus, Beirut is the largest city in Lebanon and the 4th largest capital in the Levant. It was buried 7 times, and each time rose from the ashes, stronger and more prominent than before. Representative of the Lebanese indomitable spirit! One would think that it is a fatalistic capital, always on the brink of collapse or annihilation, yet somehow through Divine Providence it survives and rebounds. We cannot speak of Beirut, without providing a backdrop of its people and the country in general.
We are originally Semitic. Later, defined as Arameans covering the region of Greater Syria, sharing the same language and traditions. Then, during the Hellenistic period we were denominated as Phoenicians, and then as Syro-Phoenicians by the Romans. We spoke the Syriac language, which our Maronite Christians still use in the practice of their faith. Beirut goes back beyond 5,000 years BC. Its ruins and landmarks include Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Crusader, and Ottoman. The Roman Empire boasted 2 prominent Law Schools, one pre-eminently in Beirut, and the other in Constantinople, the eastern seat of their empire.
Lebanon is one of the oldest countries in the world and mentioned over 70 times in the Holy Bible. It is immortalized through its famous Cedars of Lebanon (also called The Cedars of God), a unique specie in the world. But, another of its famous cities is Byblos (modern-day Jbeil) dating between 7,000–7,500 years BC (or even more according to some historians), making it the oldest city in the world. It is located north of Beirut.
The population of Beirut is about 2.5 million over an area of almost 20km. It is a peninsula on the beautiful Mediterranean shore, with a backdrop of towering green hills and mountains, it offers a beautiful panoramic scenery. In summer, one can see the snow-capped mountains, while swimming in the blue Mediterranean Sea, which is not more than an hour’s drive. Imagine skiing in the morning and then going to the beach in the afternoon. Where can one enjoy such a contrast?
We have 4 distinct seasons, without the dark and austere winters of the western hemisphere. In fact, we have the sun year-round, obviously with longer days in summer. In Spring, the temperature is a cool 18C during the day, dropping to around 13C at night (slightly chilly). You can get all the vegetables and fruits across the seasons.
Lebanese are very friendly and hospitable towards foreigners. Undoubtedly, they are very warm and generous when they take a liking to you. They may take their familiarity too far by being inquisitive and unconsciously impertinent. It is always best to be blunt from the onset and set your boundaries. I assure you that they will not take offense. If you don’t, they can be embarrassingly intrusive, without realizing it.
Beirut may not be as sprawling as a European capital, but I assure you that it will have everything for everyone with many more places to offer during the day and or through the night. The city throbs 24/7. There are always great local and international cultural events to interest everyone. A wholesome trip requires a few weeks. However, I’ll give you a general overview of the places to visit during the day through to midnight. If you are still left with some energy to burn after midnight, there are many piano bars, jazz clubs, nightclubs, etc. Depending on your taste and what you’re after, this program may require a more customized approach. It is best to have a local reference or a friend to advise you or accompany you. Like in every urban city, it is best to be accompanied by a local who speaks the language. The good and the bad come together. You will certainly not be attacked or kidnapped, but it is always best to be safer than sorry and ruin your vacation. No Lebanese will be happy if say, you were pickpocketed by a foreign immigrant on our turf. It will ruin your holiday giving our city a bad name.
LOCATIONS
*Port of Beirut: where the notorious bombing of 04/08/20 took place.
*Souk Beirut: the central district, referred to as “downtown”.
*Sahet Al Shouhada or Martyrs’ Square.
*Al Amine Mosque: the Central Mosque next to the oldest churches in Beirut.
*Saint George’s Cathedral: with a preview into nearby Roman excavations.
*Saray Beirut: the old Ottoman and later French Governor’s palace.
*Saint George Hotel, next to the Phoenicia Hotel: the prominent landmarks on the Corniche (the bayside).
*AUB, The American University of Beirut.
*Mathaf or National Museum.
*Ashrafyeh (traditional neighborhood): the Soursok Museum and Boubouffe Restaurant, amongst other excellent restaurants and cafes.
*Gemmayzeh (traditional neighborhood) for restaurants, bars, and coffee shops.
*Mar Mikhael (traditional neighborhood): restaurants, bars, and coffee shops.
*The Corniche: where all the Beirut crowd strolls or goes for sports in the early mornings or at sunset.
Rawcheh: more impressive than Capri, with a restaurant in its massive offshore rock is referred to as the Pigeon Grotto (in the picture at the top of the article).
Mark my word, relax, and absorb your surroundings. By this, I mean that, wherever you go night or day, stroll around, stop at a sidewalk café for a coffee, freshly-squeezed juice, a sandwich, whatever you feel like. Don’t rush, take it all in. You can interrupt anyone to ask for directions or information. They will gladly oblige a foreigner, without expecting anything in return. Obligingly, they may even accompany or take you to your destination.
Never miss the sunset in Beirut, you will never have the same sunset twice! Make sure you take a picture every day and then you’ll realize how kind Mother Nature is to us, painting a different masterpiece every day.
REFERENCES
Sammy’s Sanctuary (On Booking & Airbnb), @50$/night, including a Lebanese breakfast, with typical local dishes on order, and a daily traditional salad. It includes free information, advice, intercession, references, taxis, uber, car hire, etc.
Beirut Food Fair Saturdays. An excellent location to savor everything authentically Lebanese.
The Sunday Fair There are 2 such Fairs. One is opposite the “Forum” and the other is towards “Bourj Hammoud/Karantina”. They include everything from personal grooming and attire to antique art objects and home décor.
Bohsali/Hallab is traditionally known for the best in assorted oriental sweets and desserts, including ice creams.
Al Rifai is traditionally known for dried fruits, nuts, and chocolates.
Najjar surpasses the commercial “Starbucks”, where you can find an assortment of freshly-roasted and prepared coffee.
Emm Hsein is one of the 3 best in traditional Lebanese cuisine.
Mhanna is the 2nd.
Al Halabi is the 3rd.
Sousi in the old Mar Elias neighborhood, is one of the most popular spots for a quick breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It is not upscale, but one of the best for typical Lebanese dishes.
NOTES
-When in Lebanon, always go for Lebanese cuisine. When you go for continental cuisine, it will be unnecessarily expensive and modified to the Lebanese palate.
-I found that cuisines that are loyal to their tradition are the Indian and Chinese, particularly when their proprietors are their own nationals.
-It is advised to reserve in advance when going out to traditional restaurants for lunch or dinner. They may either be fully booked or reserved for a particular occasion.
-When it comes to Lebanese sandwiches (a meal in itself), or “rolled” pizzas, they are in abundance everywhere.
TIPS
Shared taxis are referred to as “Service” and operate on a fixed rate. Buses are less than half the cost. Hired cab rates are pre-negotiated and obviously more expensive. Other hired taxis are available online, like Uber, etc. No need for tips.
It is not advised to tip by percentage in Lebanon, the way it is done on the Continent or in the U.S. At high-end restaurants, 5–6$ is appropriate. Usually, where the service is personalized like in a beauty parlor or a barber’s shop, 2–3$ will do.
Make sure you make a visit to the barber (men) or coiffeur (women) before leaving Beirut. A delightful experience in grooming and pampering.
Sammy RNAJ — sammy.rnaj.writer@gmail.com
