Finding my “Seoul” in South Korea ;)

Stacie Chan
Jul 21, 2017 · 14 min read

What a fantastic place to just… be . No need for a jam-packed itinerary or a list of must-see destinations. Every street in Seoul is an explosion of skyscrapers containing high-energy restaurants and boutiques. People stream in and out, unapologetically giving in to every consumer impulse — from food to shopping to beauty. Everything is affordable, so you can eat delicious food to your heart’s content and purchase any item at a reasonable price. The unique culture screams from every corner of each efficiently run-subway station, with uber-feminine women in fashionable sheath dresses and men with their oddly coiffed perms all moving quickly to the next trendy place-to-be.

Highlight: Hapjeong, where every restaurant and store is its own architectural sight to behold. Think the vibrancy of Manhattan plus the cool-factor of Brooklyn. The Korea War Memorial was an extremely close second, and was a heartfelt history lesson.

Lowlight: Not a lowlight, per se, but the Korean haircut that I had been planning to get forever (in order to donate my hair) was very $$$. But the four head massages they gave me definitely offset the cost.

Bottom Line: there are cheap, direct flights to Korea. Grab a friend for a quick week-long trip. You’ll feel like you’re in an alternate universe, but one that’s welcoming and exciting, and one that you’ll wish you could stay in just a bit longer.

We loved Korea thiiiiiis much!

Hapjeong neighborhood: 5 stars

This is the spot to hang out in. Mind you, Seoul is massive — it’s the fourth most populated city in the world. But of all the neighborhoods we visited, there was something super special about the Hapjeong neighborhood. Can a place be buzzing with life, but also laid-back? Ultra hip, but not teeming with tourists? Yup, that’s Hapjeong. There’s even a sunglasses store called “Gentle Monster” that showcases a distinct art exhibit for each new collection they release. It’s *that* kind of trendy.

Every building in Hapjeong was photo-worthy.

Every restaurant and store you pass, your hand will instinctively reach towards your camera to take a photo because the architectural design “speaks to you.” But after five consecutive photos of back-to-back stores, you ditch the camera. It’s enough to just savor the sights sans snapshots.

Hapjeong also bleeds into the Hongdae neighborhood, where you’ll feel a noticeable age difference due to the large university population. Just walk around and stare. It’s ok, people expect you to people-watch.

Korea War Memorial: 5 stars

Proud Americans at the Korea War Memorial

Spending July 4th in another country feels downright unpatriotic, but a visit to the War Memorial made me so indubitably proud to be an American. I must have been asleep during that chapter in History Class, but the War Memorial was a refresher course of the bitter Korean Civil War from the 50s, and how integral the US was in aiding both sides to come to a cease fire. Many more political thoughts, but simply: I was proud of the US’s role in helping negotiate peace, no matter how the situation has unfolded today. No, I don’t believe we should stick our nose in every international conflict, but the battle for democracy is one worth fighting for.

From the memorial: “Our nation honors her sons and daughters who answered the call to defend a country they never knew and a people they never met.”

The restoration and replicas of some actual fighter jets and battleships was… surreal. It was awe-inspiring and commanding, but also grim and frankly depressing. No matter how just the cause and the fight, war is ugly and millions of deaths are inevitable.

Itaewon neighborhood: 5 stars

This is the international district that makes you forget that you’re in Korea. The diversity is a pleasant surprise, with doner kebab, pizza and Indian food as some of the main cuisines, not bibimbap or tteokbokki. You can check out the Line store, the messaging app that’s super popular in Asia. Let’s just say, we spent way too much time taking photos and making ridiculous gifs with stuffed animals :X

In Korea, we think we’re cute.

Also, keep heading up the hill, where you’ll find an enormous mosque. It’s a stark, yet stunning, contrast, and definitely not a religious building that I expected to see in the middle of Seoul.

Pixar 30-year anniversary exhibit: 5 stars

I now want to watch every Pixar movie ever made.

This is a temporary exhibit that showcases the history of Pixar and its ~8 most successful feature films plus some shorts. It was completely mesmerizing, and you can’t help but leave captivated with a renewed appreciate for animation. It’s merely pen and paper (ok and super fancy tech graphics, these days) but Pixar movies are storytelling at its best. All their movies have simple, yet moving, plot lines with familiar characters that resonate no matter what culture you’re in. Visit the exhibit while it lasts!

DMZ (demilitarized zone): 4 stars

Oh hey there, officer…

Yikes, shit’s gettin’ real. Given that I was in South Korea the week that North Korea announced a nuclear missile that could reach Alaska, the gravity of the situation weighed even more on me. You forget that the two sides are still at war, with the North Koreans incessantly plotting ways to break through the DMZ and invalidating the Armistice Agreement. To date, the South Koreans have unearthed 20 underground tunnels that the North designed to plant dynamite and devastate central Seoul. This was not only an important history lesson, but a jarring wake-up call to a present-day war that is still raging across the Pacific, closer to home than we think.

South Korea’s pervasive theme of “Reunification” seemed an admirable goal, yet slightly naive given the current climate. The South Koreans even built a fully-functioning subway station “Dorasan” to connect to Pyeongyang, if the North Koreans are ever willing to become one nation again.

Hanok Village: 4 stars

This is a sweet village set in the heart of busy Seoul. It feels a bit like you’re transformed to a few decades ago, before Seoul was a bustling hive of millions of people. Korean women walk around in the traditional Hanbok dress, and there is an anachronistic quaintness that still exists. If you don’t find a hushed reverence on your own, there will be plenty of signs that remind you to “Shh! People live here”

Smiling extra quietly in Hanok Village in Seoul

Myeongdong: 4 stars

This is Seoul captured in one neighborhood. It’s got flash, lights, every item sold under the sun. There might be more restaurants than people, as buildings are multiple stories high. Don’t forget to look up because there might be another more delicious restaurant on the fifth floor, right beneath the bowling alley and the workout gym.

If you’re looking for a good haircut, stop by Juno Hair, where they’ll give you the royal treatment — but at a price.

The longest-lasting souvenir I got from Korea

Gangnam district: 4 stars

Oop oop Gangnam style! Heyyyy sexy ladaayy…

Stop by the Psy platform and do the famous Gangnam style dance. Or I guess you don’t have to, since “Gangnam Style” is no longer the most viewed YouTube video of all time. I also have a deeper appreciation for the meaning behind the song. The Gangnam district is emblematic of the nouveau riche- lots of wealth but in an ostentatious way that lacks the distinguished feel of other neighborhoods.

And if all the flash and pomp isn’t your thing, you can always retreat underneath to the subway station where stores rival their above-ground counterparts in selection. I bought a dress for only $32 and numerous beauty products. (Oh please make my skin look as glowing and luminous as Korean girls’…) I could have spent a full day down there shopping and buying things to fix my face.

Changgeonchong Temple + Secret Garden: 3 stars

The temple was gorgeous, but the strict tour times really cramped our style. It’s worth the quick $8 visit, but if you don’t time your visit with their Secret Garden schedule, just skip it.

Still a fantastic photo opp ;)

North Seoul Tower: 3 stars

I thought the stereotype was that *men* don’t ask for directions? After walking from the Korea War Memorial up a colossal hill, we discovered that there was no walkable path to the North Seoul Tower, which is supposed to have the best views of the city at sunset.

After retroactively asking locals for directions to the tower, we discovered that you have to take a cable car up to the top. Views were so-so, as the fog/smog(?) kept us from getting a crystal clear view of the city.

We couldn’t catch the views, so we opt-ed for a photo in front of these Christmas tree looking things made of locks.

BUSAN:

Haedong Yonggung temple: 5 stars

Not all temples are created equal. This one is stunning, as it’s nestled on the cliffs of Busan to create a breathtaking photo opp with the ocean in the background. Bonus points that there are two giant gold twin pig statues. It’s as if Ashlie and I were the sacred guardians of the place!

Christmas Card-worthy

Gamcheon Village: 4.5 stars

A pastel rainbow of quaintness

Sorry to do the half star cheat, but I think Gamcheon Village warrants it. It was an incredibly bright and gosh darn happy place with its rows of pastel homes dotting the hillside. Originally settled by people of the Takgeukdo religion, the village is structured with its houses tiered so that no house blocks any house behind it, to allow each family to prosper.

Unfortunately, when we arrived, most of the shops and activities were closed. So in my head, this is totally a 5-star visit if you go during the day. But the murals and artwork sprinkled throughout the village still proudly remained on display.

Busan Downtown area: 4 stars

We must have walked through the same street intersection at least 5 times because the assortment of various street foods was incredible. We would eat pork belly bibimbap rolls from one cart, vow to restrain ourselves to peruse other food, but then get suckered into purchasing crispy Korean pancake at another stall. Four vendors later, we realized we never made it to the BBQ area. Oh well, we’ll save that for a return trip.

Dumplings, gimbap, some squiggly fishcake on a stick, and suspect-looking red “meat”.

Jagalchi Fish Market: 4 stars

If you like seafood, you must stop here.

Pro tip: don’t order from a restaurant, go to the actual fish market where all sorts of creatures are flopping around. First confirm with a restaurant that they’ll cook your fresh finds, then go to the market and start picking the critters that will be your next meal. It’s much more economical than sitting at a restaurant. (We paid $70 for a delicious meal of uni and eel, which was far steeper than it should have been.)

#PicturesofAsiansTakingPicturesofFood

Haeundae Beach: 3 stars

It was cloudy and overcast (early July is the wet, monsoon-y season). But a beach is a beach. And a girl’s gotta tan. It was nice to walk along the (somewhat frigid) ocean water to people watch. Alert: Koreans’ beachware is *a lot* more conservative than Westerners. To avoid being the skank-a-licious Westerners, consider a more modest bathing suit.

(photo intentionally missing… just imagine a super cloudy beach instead)

Jeju Island:

This is a tiny island off the southern coast, which is a short ~40min plane ride away. It’s a nice change of pace and worth a very short daytrip.

Hike Mt. Hallasan: 4 stars

This 14 km/9 mi hike is a must-do, if only to remind your body of what it’s like to burn calories rather than consume 3,000 calories on the daily. The lush trek was quite beautiful, despite the foggy landscape.

In between huffing and puffing

Manjanggul hike: 3 stars

Boy, was this a refreshingly cool reprieve from the Korean humidity. It was also a nice ~3km walk inside a massive lava cave. (in my first draft, I typed “lava cake.” Muscle memory is a funny thing.) It was cool to see (pun intended), but not a must-do.

A solidified lava tube, deep inside the Manjjangul cave

Dragon’s Head statue: 2 stars

If you squint real tightly, cock your head to the left and align yourself juuuust right, this kinda sorta resembles a dragon. Wait a sec, what do dragons even look like? They’re not even real…

Other alternatives that looked interesting on Jeju Island: Green Tea Farm and “Chestnut” Forest. We didn’t have enough time to go though.

FOOD. FOOD FOOD FOOD. FOOOOOOOOOD

Fried Chicken: what’s better than fried chicken? Fried chicken and beer. If I had one last meal on earth, fried chicken would be a top contender. And I may have just found the spot in Seoul called “BBQ”. Real original.

Bread: holy moly, everyone knows the Japanese are the master bakers in Asia. But Koreans really give them a run for their money. Every bakery boasts an array of freshly baked loaves and buns . If I wore perfume, I would capture the smells of Korean bakeries and bottle it up to make “Eau de Korean Bakery.” There was one particular bakery in Busan, which only had Korean signage, that stole our hearts — and stomachs. We went back *twice* in one day just to get the condensed milk brioche loaf with the perfect sugar crust and soft pillow-y inside.

Sweet heaven in a beautiful bread loaf

Black BBQ pork on Jeju Island: Go to “pork street.” ‘Nuff said. They cook pork in four different cuts/ways: fried, grilled, bulgogi, belly. Yes, belly should be a way that all meats are prepared. (This may have been my heaven on earth, no disrespect to the millions of people on earth who don’t eat pork.)

Consuming our weight in pork

Cold noodles: Back home in the states, I’m not the biggest fan. I mean, why would you eat cold noodles when you could eat *hot* noodles? A hot day in Busan, that’s why. And when it’s $3 for a delicious bowl of cold, spicy noodles, you’ll be smiling in disbelief in between every sloppy slurp.

Pro tip: every meal comes with panchon, basically an endless assortment of appetizers ranging from kimchi, other pickled vegetables and jap chae (cold mung bean noodles.) However, you can’t be a cheapskate and eat only panchon. Most restaurants will require that each person order an entree or a full order.

Gimbap: This is like the bastard stepbrother to sushi rolls in terms of notoriety back in the States. But it’s so good, definitely deserves as least half-brother status. Traditional gimbap just has vegetables, but it can be stuffed with tuna or meat. Exit the Jagalchi subway station in Busan, and stumble upon a gem of a gimbap place where you get a *giant* fresh made gimbap roll for $2 (remember, this includes all the panchon and soup you like)

I wish I had a Korean mother who made me gimbap every day for lunch…

Bibimbap: BI.BIM.BAP. I know this is readily available in the States, but it’s just so darn good. I recommend ordering it with the beef tartare, cause, you know, I’m an omnivore.

A rainbow medley of scrumptious meat and vegetables

Chicken ginseng soup: this is comfort food at its finest. The whole chicken is basically falling off the bone (spot the wishbone!), and once it does, it reveals an abundance of rice stuffing. The ginseng flavor is not overpowering and does something magical to the whole garlic cloves so that they’re actually edible by themselves…even sweet. Oh. my. Yum.

Mandu: Korean dumplings. Just trust me on this one cause… dumplings.

Seafood: this peninsula offers every creature from the sea. Get it all. I wanted to try something a bit more adventurous like live octopus, but my travel buddy opted for the catch of the day instead.

Logistics:

Traveling alone:

Eh, don’t do it.. South Korea is way more fun when you’ve got a travel buddy. Especially when you and your travel buddy have 27 years of friendship, sisterhood and inside jokes, the trip is going to be a riot no matter what. Shoutout to our friend, Anzor, who took us to hidden spots like the mosque in Itaewon and restaurant gems and clubs in Hapjeong. I’m sure he would play tour guide for a fee!

Logistics: Make sure to get two full weekends in Seoul. We barely scratched the surface of their nightlife and I can’t wait to go back. The middle of your trip could be spent in Busan (2 days) and Jeju Island (1 day).

When you get to Seoul, buy a 5-day pass or at least a day-pass. We were the idiots buying a one-way ticket each time we hopped on the (very efficient) subway. Did I mention that they have pristine public restrooms at *every* stop? When I think of how this compares to San Francisco, I just can’t even…

Oh, and there’s wi-fi everywhere. It’s not the strongest signal, and drops frequently, but it’s enough to not need to get a SIM card. Plus, it’s really nice to unplug.

Time of Year: Early-July is muggy and humid. I recommend going almost any other week so you can see clear blue skies and not worry about the rain. Yet we still had an incredible time :)

Money: Every place accepts credit cards, even the subway station vendors below ground. You can exchange your USD for some Korean won (KRW), but it’s not really necessary.

Lodging: Go the Airbnb route. You get to stay right in the heart of the neighborhoods you want for $50–60 a night. We stayed in these studios that are made for businessmen who work all the time and don’t need a large space or full-kitchen. Many will have two beds and just enough room to feel like a spacious hotel room.

Annyeonghaseyo, Seoul! We’ll be back next time with an empty suitcase for more shopping and an empty belly for more food.

These two gluttonous pigs will return!

)

Stacie Chan

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