You’re out there in the water on a perfect, Ocean Beach morning and it’s sunny and warm. Okay, maybe not so warm. Actually it’s pretty fucking cold. But you’re in the water and the sun is out.
And so are your friends. It’s like your entire surf posse decided to show up this morning. No one called anyone. It was just one of those mornings.
The waves have been heavy over the past couple weeks — a little more than you can handle at this point. And there’ve been reports of great whites not too far off the coast. Hopefully they’re gone by now.
The tide’s high and the waves are clean. You paddle into one and it’s not as steep as you expect. You don’t get tossed. You actually have a nice, friendly lane right in front of you that’s calling your name. And you take it.
And you make it.
You ride across the face, and then down, and then back up, and then down again. It’s a great ride. Your best in weeks. And you’re stoked.
As you get back on your board, you start to wonder if any of the guys back in the lineup saw that one. And just as you’re thinking that, you hear a call from your best friend, right behind you.
He’d ridden the same wave and seen everything.
“That was sick duuude,” he said. “I wish I got that on GoPro!”
But it didn’t matter. He had seen it and that was enough. All you need is one other person to share in that glory with you. To know how much fun you just had. To cheer you on and encourage you to get back out there.
Friends are the best, man. I couldn’t do it without ‘em.