My Solo Trip to Kyanjin Ri (4779m) — Langtang Trek(March 4th-8th 2017)
As I was planning to go to Tsho Rolpa via Rolwaling valley, something unexpected came up. I got the news that there was a heavy snowfall in that area and a monk couldn’t reach the gumba above because he couldn’t find the way up because of a lot of snow. I was so disappointed that I had to cancel my plan and had to change my destination. In short time, I decided to get upto Kyanjin Gompa via Langtang valley. I got the ticket to Syafrubeshi on Friday. I got to work and all I was thinking about at work that day was about my trekking and how much fun it would be. I was so excited.
Day I: (Kathmandu-Syafrubeshi) (7 hrs)
On saturday, I woke up early as the bus was to leave Machhapokhari at around 8:30 and I hadn’t packed my bag yet. I did it fast and completed my packing in about 15 mins. Then, I got to Machhapokhari and the bus was already there. I got in and about 30 mins past departure time, the bus started and it took about 7 hours to reach Syafrubeshi. When I got there, I got into a hotel and put my bag there and left the room for some sight-seeing in the area. From the road, about 15 mins downhill, there lies Bhotekoshi river. I got there too and stayed there for about 30 mins enjoying the flow of water and its sound which was really relaxing after a long bus ride. Then, I climbed up to the road and saw a temple uphill. I didn’t know what temple it was. I decided to go there and it took me about 20 mins to get to the temple and the trail was all stairs. From up there, Syafrubeshi looked beautiful with some devastating earthquake triggered landslides. It was a mixed feeling. I stayed there for around 30 mins and then I got down to a hotel for some food. I ate my dinner there as well and got to my hotel for some sleep as I was tired.
Day II: (Syafrubeshi-Khamjing-Sherpagaon-Rimiche-Lama Hotel) (7:15 hrs)
The next morning, I woke up at around 7:30 and had a cup of tea at the hotel. It was so refreshing. Then, I left for Lama hotel from the hotel at around 9:00. It takes about 15–20 mins to get to Army Checkpoint which is straight down the road. There is a suspension bridge after the checkpoint. After crossing the bridge above the beautiful Bhotekoshi, there were two trails. One was to get to Lama hotel directly alongside Langtang Khola and another was to get to Khamjing (a small yet beautiful Tibetan village) which was uphill and the way was steep as hell. As I had heard before that due to the earthquake and landslides, the direct trail to Lama hotel was closed and everyone had to choose the route I chose. But, I was wrong. When I walked about 30 mins uphill, I saw three tourists with two guides who chose the other way. I walked for another one and a half hours without seeing a single soul through the jungle. As I decided not to carry any knife because I thought it would make me more fearful and I was right. I just walked with the flow of nature all alone and was enjoying it. The views were just so mesmerizing. Then, finally after two and a half hours, I reached Khamjing at around 11:30. I was so hungry and ate my lunch at a hotel. The old man at the hotel just couldn’t stop talking. We talked about a lot of things including earthquake, Lhosar and Tibetan language as well. He taught me some tibetan words but I forgot it as it was so difficult to learn a new language so fast. The view was so beautiful from there as I could see Chilime Hydropower water reservoir and up above the mountains too. It just felt soothing. The guy from the hotel packed me some Lhosar rotis for my snacks along the way which are called “Jheru”. I thanked him with my heart and left the hotel at around 12:30 as it would take around 2–2:30 hrs to reach Sherpagaon but the route was so beautiful that I didn’t feel tired. I walked uphill for about 30 mins. After that, the way was no more uphill until I got to Sherpagaon. I met a couple from Austria on the way to Sherpagaon. I stopped for tea at a hotel at Sherpagaon. The owner of the hotel told me about how every house there was destroyed by the earthquake. They built it after that and the village looked like it was unaffected. I chatted with the couple(hotel owners) about many stuffs. While I was talking with them, the couple from Austria arrived. Then, I talked with them. They were from Salzburg. The guy told me that he did Annapurna circuit trek about 10 years back and shared some of the experiences. We talked politics as he brought up that the relation between Nepal and China was improving and it might not be beneficial to our country. I tried to explain him how the competition between India and China for Nepal will indeed be fruitful. Then, I concluded my chat and told them I would see them at Lama Hotel and I left. I walked about one hour more and got to Rimiche. There is just one hotel there. About 30 mins from Rimiche, I finally reached Lama Hotel which is at the bank of Langtang Khola. I put my backpack in the hotel room and went to visit Langtang river. I just sat in a big stone for about half an hour in peace.
It was so relaxing and the sound of the river flowing was so pacifying. In the evening, I talked to the hotel owners and other locals who were there. It was like everyone there survived the earthquake in some strange ways. It was really heart-breaking to hear that some of their relatives died in the earthquake. After about 2–3 hours of chitchat and having my dinner, I went to my room. As soon as I lied in my bed, I fell asleep in an instant as I was so tired.
Day III: (Lama Hotel-Riverside-Woodland-Ghodatabela-Thangsyap-Langtang village-Mundu-Kyanjin Gompa) (7:30 hrs)
I woke up at around 7:00. The hotel owner told me that if I left right now, then only I could get to Kyanjin Gompa that day in time. As I was lazy, I had my tea and breakfast with as much time as possible. At that time, I met with a couple who were from New York City. The guy was the captain of the cruise ship from New York to Hawaii and back. As I never talked to any captain, I was so curious about a lot of things. I shared my story when I was in New York City and how I had bad experiences with the people in the subway there many times. They laughed and told me that not all people are the same. Then, I told them I was getting to Kyanjin Gompa that day and left at around 8:30. Also, they told me that they were only getting to Mundu that day. I walked with my pace enjoying the beautiful views, Langtang river and Langtang mountain which I saw for the first time when I walked for about 2 hours. In the meantime, I saw a lot of destroyed houses. After about an hour from Lama Hotel, I got to Riverside where all the hotels were destroyed. Now, only one hotel lie there. After some time of walking ups and downs through the jungle, I got to Woodland. No hotels are there right now as all are destroyed. Also, everything was destroyed in Ghoda Tabela as well.
After about 3 hours of walking from Lama Hotel, I got to Thangsyap at around 11:30. The wind was so cold and chilly that even after walking, I didn’t have any sweat in my body. I had my lunch at Thangsyap and there was only one hotel there. Others were destroyed in the earthquake and maintenance were going on. All the time when I was in Thangsyap, I was near the fire as I was so cold. After having my lunch, at about 12:30, I left for Kyanjin Gompa.
After some time, I could see Langtang valley, which was one of the greatly affected village by the earthquake. After one hour of walking, I got to the place where the village used to be. There was nothing but the stones and rocks. Its estimated that 308 people died there including 176 local Langtang residents, 80 foreigners and 10 army personnels. More than 100 bodies were never found. So, when I was passing through the village, I just couldn’t control my emotions as I felt literally like walking above the grave of those people. It is just so sad. I felt like crying but I came strong and started walking. There are some hotels just after about 30 mins of walking from the place. But, no hotels are open right now as maintenance was going on there as well. Its called New Langtang Village.
I met a guy there and I asked him how far Kyanjin Gompa is from there. He told me its still far. I started walking again. I got to Mundu at around 2:00. Just after about 15 mins of walking from Mundu, I saw a house and stopped for tea there as it was so cold. The chilly wind was unstoppable. There was an old man who was taking care of his horse when I arrived there. He made me a cup of tea and I sat near the fire and talked with the guy. He shared some interesting stories about his life and I shared some things that I wouldn’t have shared with anyone. When I tried to pay him, he didn’t take my money and instead provided me with another cup of tea and a packet of biscuit. After having them, I told the guy I would meet him on my way back and left. I was walking alone with my camera. After about 2:15 hours of walking alone, I finally reached Kyanjin Gompa at around 4:30. I felt so wonderful as I was surrounded by the mountains.
I was approached by a lady hotel owner and she took me to her hotel. When I got to the hotel, I quickly put the backpack in my room and got to the kitchen where the fireplace was. When I came from my room to the kitchen, there was a Nepali guy outside who was talking with the hotel owner. As I was warming up with my cup of tea near the fire, the lady told me that two guys were planning to cross Ganja La Pass the next morning. I was thinking they were foreigners all the time. On Thursday after my return to Kathmandu, I got the news that two Nepali guys were lost since the day they left Kyanjin Gompa. It was on the same day I left the place for Lama Hotel. And when I saw the pictures of two guys, I found out that one was the same guy I saw talking to hotel owner lady. I quickly realized that those were the two guys that lady was talking about and they weren’t foreigners but Nepalese. Its just so sad that fellow adventurers are lost.
I talked with the people there about how to get to Kyanjin Ri and Tserko Ri and how difficult the route was. One of the guy told me that it is very difficult to reach Tserko Ri the next day since the wind was so bad that day and had been since 2–3 days. I decided that I would only get to Kyanjin Ri the next day. After some time, I had my dinner and I quickly headed towards my room. The room was so cold. I had two jackets on with 3 shirts inside. I put one blanket and still I couldn’t stand the cold. Luckily, I found another blanket which was on another bed and used it. Finally, I felt like I was warming and I quickly fell asleep.
Day IV: (Kyanjin Gompa-Kyanjin Ri I (4328m)-Kyanjin Ri II (4779m)-Kyanjin Gompa-Lama Hotel) (7:15 hrs)
I woke up late and slept so good as I was tired. I had a cup of tea and a packet of biscuit and quickly left for Kyanjin Ri as most of the people who go there start early and leave at 8 o’clock. I left at around 9:15. The way to get to Kyanjin Ri is so steep. I walked fast enjoying the views of the mountains surrounding me. I reached Kyanjin Ri I (4328m). I overtook all of the foreigners who started early and finally got to the top at 10:15.
I took some pictures as the view of Langtang Lirung was just so beautiful from there. I could see Langtang glaciers as well. It was just so lovely. After about 10 mins, other guys got there as well. Then, I saw a guy coming down from Kyanjin Ri II (4779m) to Kyanjin Ri I where I was. He got there in no time and I asked him if he had any tips for me. He told me that I just needed to walk and be careful with the wind as it was so hard and was trying to blow me away. Then, I left for Kyanjin Ri II and I was all alone walking the trail to get there. I walked and walked and finally at around 11:20, I reached to the top of Kyanjin Ri II. It was just wonderful. I felt so awesome inside me. I took pictures of the views from there. I decided that I would wait for two guys whom I saw walking up. After about 30 mins, they got to the top too.
They were couple from Dortmund, Germany. They told me that it was their 6th visit to Nepal. We talked for some time and we took pictures of each other. Finally, I had a picture of me with the nature as I was just taking pictures of just the nature until I got to that point. I felt so wonderful and relaxed. Then, another guy got there who told us that he was trying to get to a peak which I didn’t realize there was until he told us. The trail was so steep and uphill to get there and the wind was so bad. But still, he started his journey to the top as me and the other couple started ours towards Kyanjin Gompa. The guys told me that its almost impossible to get to Lama Hotel. I got to Kyanjin Gompa at 12:30. I had my lunch as I was so hungry. Then, I relaxed for some time.
There were two guides and a porter there who said they were getting to Thangsyap that day. I asked them if I could get to Lama Hotel as I already decided that I would get to Tserko Ri the next time I get there as the wind was so bad. They told me that its impossible to get there before dark. I quickly packed my backpack, paid the hotel and left for Lama Hotel at around 2:15. I walked fast pushing my limit. I was literally running but still found a lot of time for taking pictures of the things that I missed the day before. When I got to Riverside, it was starting to get dark. I walked about 20 mins in the dark through the jungle before I got to Lama Hotel at about 6:45. I felt so good.
I then went to the hotel and got to the room. I quickly headed towards the kitchen for the fireplace. After a cup of tea, I was hungry so fast. I had my dinner and talked to the hotel owners and had some chitchat about their life stories and I shared mine as well. Then, I headed to my room and quickly fell asleep.
Day V: (Lama Hotel-Bamboo-Syafrubeshi-Kathmandu) (4 hrs walk, 6:30 hrs bus ride)
I woke up late at about 9:00 and slept good. I had a fresh cup of coffee and breakfast. Then, at about 10:15 I saw those guides who left Thangsyap in the morning. They didn’t stop as they told me that they were trying to get to Kathmandu that day by reserving a jeep. Then, they left. I also realized that I could catch them and get to Kathmandu the same day with them. After about 1 hour, I left Lama Hotel at about 11:15. As the route this time was not the same route that I took when I got to Lama Hotel from Syafrubeshi on my first trekking day. From Rimiche, the trail is divided. I walked downwards and was trying to catch many things as possible on my camera and enjoying the views as well. I had to walk through the thick forest until I got to Syafrubeshi. Also, there are 2–3 small villages on that route. One of them is Bamboo. Finally, I reached Syafrubeshi at around 3:30. Those guides were waiting for any jeep and hadn’t found any until I got there. They told me that they got to Syafru about 30 mins earlier. Luckily, we found a jeep which was carrying foreigners from Kathmandu to Syafru and we talked to the owner of the jeep. We were 5 guys in total. He agreed and we left for Kathmandu. I arrived Kathmandu at around 10 pm. This trekking happened to be one of the unforgettable and memorable trip for me and was short and sweet.
Some suggestions for future travelers:
- Trekking boots are needed as many parts of the trails are rocky and have small stones.
- Wind-proof jacket, gloves, caps are recommended as the wind is very chilling.
- Altitude sickness medicines are recommended(I didn’t need it for myself as I was confident :)) Don’t do that :)
- Cold-creams, lip cares are needed as the skin becomes very dry.
- Also, if you are going alone, judge very carefully and always trust your instinct.
- Total cost for me was about Rs. 6000 including the bus fares. The cost may deviate depending on which hotel you live and what you eat.
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If you want to enjoy other solo trek blogs of mine, here are the links:
https://medium.com/@suman.dhakal/my-solo-trek-to-tsho-rolpa-4580m-may-16th-21st-2017-2552c92fe18d
