Thursday 29th, September 2016
I checked the forecast for the week last night, we have a long weekend coming up and no swell on the horizon, only a storm swell today…so obviously I called in sick.
Wind is blowing strobg, rain is falling sowb, it’s 10am and there is only one other guy out the front of C street. It’s 3–4ft, messy, grey…with perfect sections here and there in the middle of all the madness if you know where to look. It’s pretty fun, but my arms are burning after 45min of constant paddling in between waves.
At 3pm, it’s mid tide going low and the sun is back. Rain stopped, wind stopped and it’s classic “post storm” conditions. There is less and less waves but they’re getting better and better. I share the peak with one other guy and we’re quickly joined by a horde of groms. By 4pm, most of the surfers decide to go in and I get have a peak and a sunset to myself. You can feel the beginning of summer in the surf. Water is transparent and air is warm, I’m glad I called in sick this morning, feeling better now.