I trekked for 9 days in Torres del Paine, Chile and so can you

Susan Gregg Koger
7 min readApr 14, 2017

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Let’s go for a trek! It will be easy and entirely flat, I promise!

I’ve done plenty of day-hikes in my time. Some have been really intense — think 15 miles with 1100 feet of elevation change in a day in Big Sur — but I wasn’t sure I could handle this trek. But, when a friend invited us on a trip of a lifetime to Patagonia, I couldn’t say no. Actually, I tried to say no but one of my girlfriends convinced me to do it. So I did it.

This was absolutely the most physically challenging thing I have ever done. But it was totally worth it.

Here’s what I learned. Hiking with a pack is really different. You will be sore in places you didn’t know were possible. Your knees and ankles will likely really, really hurt. And you will have to poop in a hole (a big fear of mine!)

Incredible early sunset light in Torres del Paine, Chile

But, you will meet the most amazing people. You will be proud of yourself and you will have the breath stolen from your lungs every time you round a bend to a new vista. You will appreciate real toilets and lukewarm water in a way that you never knew possible. You will be really, really hungry and food will taste amazing, even though you know it is not actually that tasty. In short: you will be alive!

I did it and I loved it. And I think you will too. Here’s my packing list to get you started. Happy Trails!

What I lived in for 9 days. Everything pictured here with the exception of 2 pairs of socks and a few more pairs of underwear.

The Osprey Aura 65 AG Pack with a 3 liter Camelbak
This is my first pack but I can’t imagine that it gets much better. Did a lot of research before buying this one and, even though it hurt for the first few days, it now feels like part of my body. I honestly did not even try it on before we left for the airport, because I am a crazy person.

Superfit Hero leggings are truly the best.

Superfit Hero leggings (1)
I am proud to be friends with Micki Krimmel, the founder of Superfit Hero, and an investor / advisor to the company. These are incredibly high quality, and the side pockets were perfect to keep my phone and tissues close at hand.

Onzie leggings (similar) (1)
Nice for the warmer days. I’ve had these for 2 years and I wear them all the time. High quality, although I really missed having pockets the days I wore these.

Day 2 of 9 trekking in Torres del Paine, Chile

Madewell sweat pants (similar) (1)
I thrifted these the weekend before our trip and was so glad to have them. Perfect for nights at camp and for the bus rides to and from the park.

Uniqlo heattech turtleneck (1)
I planned to wear a sports bra underneath these Uniqlo tops as my base layer but realized about 1 hour into the first day that I didn’t need one. This was my first time EVER hiking without a bra and I am NEVER going back. For me, it is just way more comfortable (even if I did get a few looks every now and then on the trail) Next time I trek, I’m going to bring 2 of these for maximum UV protection. I washed this after 2 or 3 wears.

When you don’t wear a bra, it’s way easier to get photos like this! And trust me, you will want this photo.

Uniqlo heattech scoop neck (1)
This was fine but the turtleneck version was better for hiking. Lesson learned!

Merrell Moab Mid waterproof boots
I’ve had these for about 6 months now and they have served me well. I’ve probably hiked 200 miles in them and I love love love them. Haven’t had a single blister yet.

Darn Tough socks (3 pairs)
Wool socks are the BEST and Darn Tough are also the best. Honestly, don’t even think about trying anything else.

Teva Olowahu flip-flops
but wish I had these Tevas instead so I could have worn them with socks at camp.

Jumping for joy in Torres del Paine, Chile

Cotton ModCloth x Wrangler tee (1)
Perfect for sleeping, or wearing over my turtleneck at dinner to calm the nipples down a bit (ha!)

Uniqlo underwear (5)
I’d wash my pair in the shower on the nights that we had warm water, and then keep them in my outer pocket to fully dry the next day. Easy! I probably could have made it with 3 or 4 pairs, but 5 kept me worry-free.

It rained our first evening on the trail. Thankfully, it looked like this by morning.

Goodr sunglasses
Affordable & lightweight. Totally scratched by the end of the trip but that was my fault.

Fingerless gloves
Handknit wool gloves I picked up in Argentina. I recommend fingerless for easy photo-taking!

Vintage Wrangler bandana
Incredibly useful to keep my crazy hair out of my eyes. Also wore this as a scarf when it was colder and I was wearing my beanie hat.

NPR wool-blend beanie
Fun story: bought this as a gift for my husband when we were dating, probably 13 or 14 years ago. It continues to serve us well.

Can you spot the glacier in the background?

Uniqlo ultra light down parka (1)
Can’t stress enough how much I love this jacket. High quality, really lightweight, and such great value for the price. That hood came in handy in the wind.

Marmot fleece jacket (1)
This was nice as an extra layer beneath my parka at camp. I was given this as a gift from a venture capitalist, otherwise I wouldn’t have purchased it on my own. The thumbholes are actually quite nice.

Marmot PreCip pants (1)
MUST. We were really lucky and only had rain on the first day but I would have been soaked otherwise.

Marmot PreCip jacket (1)
Also a must. The armpit zipper vents are really useful, and I personally love this two-tone green color-way.

With my hiking buddies Eric & Sean on our first day in the park.

Palo Santo incense sticks (6)
I love smelling these when I open my pack. I love burning them in my tent at night. I also passed them along to new friends on the trail. Worth the weight!

Getting really really meta.

Outdoor ukulele
Also so worth the extra weight. Incredible memories and new friends were made with this lady by my side.

North Face Cat’s Meow Sleeping Bag
I’m allergic to feathers/down, so this is a synthetic bag and thus larger than needed. I wouldn’t recommend unless you’re special like me :)

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season Mattress Regular
Comfy and easy to inflate.

Therm-a-Rest Air Head Pillow
Same as above!

Overlooking Grey Glacier in Torres del Paine, Chile. Can you spot Eric?

Black Diamond Alpine Trekking Poles
I’ve never hiked with poles before but I think it’s a must when you’re wearing a pack and hiking this many miles. I have no complaints about these and they definitely saved my ass on the downhill several times.

Hilleberg Anjan 3 Tent
My husband Eric carried the tent, so this isn’t technically part of my pack but I did sleep in it most nights on the trail (otherwise we stayed in the refugios — hostel like structures at camp) This tent is more than enough room for us, even though Eric is 6'3", and it is lightweight and very easy to set up and tear down.

MSR Windburner
My husband carried this too, and made us meals of rice, lentils, and peanuts (actually quite delicious) and many, many cups of hot tea with it.

Beginning of our 2nd day on the trail in Torres del Paine, Chile.

Camp towels
Wash these before you use them for the first time!

Sporks

Cooking supplies

Speaker
we brought the JBL Flip3 which is best in class. We could have gone smaller but it was nice to have the Flip3’s sound quality and battery life when we wanted music on the trail.

Solar phone charger
Mostly charged from a power outlet, but the solar panels definitely gives some extra and is a good emergency backup.

Headlamp

Toilet paper and Biowipes and depending on where you’re hiking, a camp trowel

Tasting the rainbow in Torres del Paine, Chile

Dry sack / bag to do laundry in

Swiss Army RangerGrip 61 knife
Wine bottle opener is a must… just in case.

Toiletries
Coola sunscreen (the best)
nail clipper and file
contact lens solution and case
toothbrush & toothpaste
jojoba oil in tiny dropper
chapstick (MUST)
a few tampons, just in case
tiny comb
Pepto Bismol, Imodium, Claritin, any other medicines you might need.

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Susan Gregg Koger

Foodie, musician, entrepreneur, animal lover, circus freak, artist, feminist. Founder of ModCloth.