Le Puy En Velay, Haute-Loire, France
Welcome back.
Today we are going right off the tourist trail to explore the village of Le Puy-en-Velay.
This village is in the mountainous regions of central France known as “Massif Central” in what we believe is the most underrated tourist region, Rhone-Alpes. According to historic records this region of France was first settled by humans probably longer than anywhere else in the country. It is not surprising therefore that many ancient Roman ruins can be found in this area.
Getting There
Le Puy-en-Velay is closest to the city of Lyon. Lyon has an international airport with connections to Frankfurt, Germany, one of the main hubs into and out of Europe.
Le Puy is located about 148 km south-west of Lyon. If you plan to visit Lyon and you have a spare day or two Le Puy is worth a visit.
The best and fastest way to get to Le Puy is to hire a car in Lyon. The drive is not particularly pretty as it goes through some old industrial areas such as Saint Etienne, we joke in our family that it has to be the ugliest town in France which is somewhat unkind as the old town centre is quite pretty.
French people joke that St Etienne is the city of foreigners as it has one of the largest populations of North Africans than almost any other city except maybe Marseilles.
A word of warning, the road between Lyon and Saint Etienne is known for a high number motor vehicle accidents. I don’t recommend you drive this route in winter or at night, it can be particularly hazardous as it is very poorly lit and very busy during peak hours. During winter it can be particularly dangerous as it is common to encounter snow on this route.
To most French Le Puy-en-Velay is famous for holding the largest annual renaissance festival in France. Renaissance and medieval festivals are a great experience because people dress up as they did during the medieval periods and parade around the village admiring each others costumes and exploring all the medieval foods, art, craft and music.
Kids get to dress up and battle the knights in their full armour. I love it because it’s like travelling back in time. If you have never experienced such an event it is something that belongs on your bucket list.
If you want to visit the Le Puy festival it is usually held around mid-September. Here’s a website where you can keep an eye out for the announcement of the next festival.
Notre Dame de France
No matter where you stand in Le Puy you cannot miss Notre Dame de France statue on the Rocher Corneille (Centre Statue on the Hill). You can climb Rocher Corneille and the inside of Notre Dame and get spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.
Notre Dame (below) is an all metal construction, terracotta colored, Madonna made from melted down cannons used in the Crimean War. Some of the used cannons still sit next to the Madonna guarding her.
Cathedral Notre Dame Du Pay
The local 12th century Cathedral Notre Dame Du Puy (below) is built on another volcanic pinnacle with a stone pathway of Rue des Tables that leads up the churches entrance. The eastern influence is unmistakable as you work up the pathway to the church. The interior of the church is adorned with 13th century frescoes and a copy of the black Madonna brought back from the crusades and burned during the revolution.
St Michel-d’Aiguilhe
Cathedral Notre Dame is not the only church in Le Puy, situated on the last of the three pinnacles around which the town was built is St Michel-d’Aiguilhe. This is an 11thcentury Romanesque chapel. After spending the day climbing up to Notre Dame church and up to the Madonna we decided we were too tired to climb the 268 steps to this church. We can always come back for another visit.
Le Puy is also known for its religious history and the charming historical streets winding their way up to the cathedral. The streets provide a great place to stop off in one of the many restaurants where local specialities are served, including AOC (controlled origin) Le Puy lentils and of course the famous Velay Vervaine, a precious liquor offering digestive benefits (consume in moderation).
Le Puy-en-Velay is also famous for its hand-made lace. The Bobbin Lace Learning Center offers exhibits and a boutique to learn more about the age-old activities.
PLACES TO VISIT NEAR LE PUY EN VELAY
One place very nearby that is worth seeing is Polignac, where a fortress has been built on a great rock that provides an extraordinary natural defence (just north of Le Puy en Velay).
See also the Cascade de la Beaume, a very picturesque waterfall near Solignac, a little way to the south of Le Puy-en-Velay and reached via a 20-minute walk through a tranquil wooded valley (starts near Agizoux).
Next week I plan to visit some more of the popular villages in the Rhone-Alpes countryside.
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