Southern France — Ardeche to Provence
Welcome back to French Vacation Tips,
Check out this quote — got to agree with the sentiment. Especially at the moment with the January cold, grey and wet weather still lingering! Every time we talk about moving back to Australia, I suddenly think of all the reasons I want to stay here!
So we’re heading south to the Provence where the climate is warmer, and the sun shines most days! Provence is a wonderful area with lots of places to see and experience. Once again, we’re not going to talk much about all the high-frequency tourist sites. I plan to do a quick tour in Aix-en-Provence and Avignon and spend time in the less travelled places we recommend.
There are many wonderful place and villages to stay in Provence. Don’t necessarily stick to the bigger towns, or one spot. The villages are spread wide, and there are things to see everywhere in this large region. We have a friend with a flat, set among the vines in Les Sablet, for 2 people in Provence that I can put you in touch with if you need a base.
Provence is a place known for its lavender fields, olive groves, vineyards, Roman ruins and the Mistral wind that blows in from the south. The Mediterranean influence in this region is evident with the colourful, terracotta roofed village often set on the hills to afford views of the countryside. It is an area for a leisurely holiday, picnics in the shade, eating, tasting wines, and going to markets to get samples of the exquisite local delicacies and wonderful fresh market produce to cook up yourself.
In Provence you’ll need a car! The best way to get to the region is to catch a high-speed train from Paris to Aix-en-Provence or Marseille, and rent a car there.
Last week we talked about Nyon. This week we will start from Nyon and work our way down the autoroute towards Marseille. This is going to take me at least 2 newsletters, so hop on board the wanderers tour of Provence.
Richerenches
On your way from Nyons to get to Grignan, about 30 minutes, is the tiny town of Richerenches. Situated in a small area called the Enclave des Papes, or Popes Enclave the town was owned by feudal lords until 1317 when the States of the Holy Sea bought it from the Dauphin of France and remained owners until the French Revolution 400 years later!
This town is famous for two things, truffles and the Templar Knights.
The first thing the village is famous for is truffles! On the 3rd Sunday in January a mass for truffles is read. At this unusual mass instead of money, truffles are donated! After the service the traditionally dressed brotherhood of the rabassiers (the people who search for truffles with trained dogs or pigs) take the donated truffles to a small square in front of the Hôtel de Ville, where they are auctioned. The revenues are for the maintenance of the church and parochial expenses.
The second reason for visiting the village is the Templar Knights. In 1136, a local lord, Hugh of Bourbouton, gave the Knights Templar land at Richerenches. Two years later he gave even more, and the next day he took his vows as a Templar. He eventually became the Commander of the Templar commandery of Richerenches, which rose to be one of the most important Templar commanderies in Provence. Richerenches is home to one of the best preserved Templar Knights residences in France.
In this same area, slightly to the north, is Grillon where there are the remains of the Dauphin and Pope ramparts and beautiful houses line the narrow streets. It is 4 km from my next suggested stop at Grignan!
Grignan
We visited Grignan after our pilgrimage to the Mediterranean for our summer holiday. What a beautiful place to spend a couple of hours on your way south into Provence! The town itself is located in the south of the Drôme department, close to Mont Ventoux, the highest mountain in Provence.
In July, the town can be seen from all around, with the chateau on the top of the hill and sunflower and lavender fields in full flower.
The medieval castle has been renovated several times since its original construction as a fortress in the 12th century. From 1668 to 1690, François de Castellane-Adhemar turned it into a Renaissance palace.
In the 17th-century, François Adhémar de Monteil transformed the fortress into a luxurious residence. The chateau is worth a visit, as you take in the spectacular views standing on the terrace looking out across the valley filled with lavender and vines.
Located under the castle terrace, the Collégiale Saint-Sauveur church was constructed between 1535 and 1539 at the request of Louis Adhémar. The Renaissance façade is flanked by two square towers and a beautiful Gothic rose window. Notice the balustrade on the roof line which is actually the chateau terrace balustrade.
Inside Saint-Sauveur is an impressive 17th-century altar and organ loft. On the floor in front of the altar is a funerary stone marking the sealed entrance to the tomb of Madame de Sévigné, whose daughter was married to François de Castellane-Adhemar. The letters she sent to her daughter Françoise Marguerite, Comtesse de Grignan, which were published after her death turned her into a celebrity. She moved to Grignan in 1664 and died in 1696. A favourite writing spot of Madame de Sévigné, where she described the people and the things of her time, was the Rochecourbière Cave, located about a half kilometre from Grignan.
The towns specialties include black diamond truffles, apricot jam, pâté, pumpkin bread, goat cheese, and wines. Grignan-les-Adhémar wines are created by blending five grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Ginsault, Carignan, Mourvèdrethe which gives these wines their power, smoothness and color.
Another site in the town where you can sit on a hot day with a picnic lunch is the beautiful washhouse which was built in 1840. The circular basin with 16 Doric columns is made of stones from the nearby village of Chamaret. This washhouse keeps the memory of washerwomen gossiping while beating their linen, which was then bleached in the sun and quickly dried by the Mistral wind.
Ardeche Gorges
An hours driving east of Grignan is the Pont d’Arc, a large natural bridge, located in the Ardèche Gorges, 5 km from the town of Vallon-Pont-d’Arc. In winter, this place is quiet with few tourists, but in the summer months expect there to be a huge number of tourists. The river in winter can also be treacherous as it can flood. The arch, described as the natural entrance to the Ardèche Canyon and carved out by the Ardèche River, is 60 m wide and 54 m high. It is a verypopular canoeing and kayaking area.
If you love canoeing, the Ardeche river has got to go on your bucket list.
The gorges run along the road from Vallon-Pont-d’Arc to St-Martin d’Ardeche, about 32 km, giving you amazing views of the canyons made of limestone.
In the near vicinity of the arch is the Chauvet-Pont-d’Arc Cave, containing the earliest known Palaeolithic cave paintings, about 30,000 years old (See also the 3D documentary Cave of Forgotten Dreams by film director Werner Herzog).
Orange
Another 1hr 20 mins south Orange was the capital of a wide area of northern Provence, which was parcelled up into lots for the Roman colonists.
Orange of two thousand years ago was a miniature Rome, complete with many of the public buildings that would have been familiar to a citizen of the Roman Empire, except that the scale of the buildings were reduced.
The town is renowned for its Roman architecture, and its Roman theatre, the Théâtre antique d’Orange, is described as the most impressive amphitheatre still existing in Europe. The Triumphal Arch of Orange is said to date from the time of Augustus or Tiberius. The arch, theatre, and surroundings were listed in 1981 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
The Musée (Museum) displays the biggest (7.56 x 5.90 m) Cadastral Roman Maps ever recovered, etched on marble. Cadastral Maps are a comprehensive register of the real estate or real property’s metes-and-bounds (meter paces and boundary points) of the country. They cover the area between Orange, Nîmes, and Montélimar.
You cannot miss the Orange market which is held on Saturdays, that takes over all the streets of the old town. Make sure to move your car out of the town centre as they will tow it away if its in the way. The market had a fantastic array of local produce, herbs, olives and napery. It is more directed to locals so the prices are far cheaper than the market in Aix-en-Provence!
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
An hour south of the Pont d’Arc is a village all red wine buffs have heard of, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Now’s your chance to visit it! Châteauneuf-du-Pape lies about 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) north of the town of Avignon. For all its fame this village still has a great atmosphere and has been vastly unaffected by the popularity of its wine.
A ruined mediaeval castle sits at the top and dominates the landscape to the south. Built in the 14th century for Pope John XXII, the second of the popes who resided in Avignon. Even though ruined, the walk to the castle is worthwhile to see the view of the countryside and Rhône River.
The village is famous for the production of red wine, and almost all the cultivable land is planted with grapevines. Caves (wine cellars) abound in this quaint village. Great for tasting, buying or eating at one of the restaurants.
If you don’t know, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is famous for its rich red wines, infused with the heat and herbs of the local region, and enhanced by the complexity which comes from blending several of the 14 permitted grape varieties. Even in France a good french vintage red starts at about 30 euros a bottle.
Avignon
Avignon, is most famous for the song from your childhood. It is on the left bank of the Rhône River, with about 12,000 inhabitants living in its’ ancient town centre enclosed by the medieval ramparts. The town is a must see and our little family agree it is much prettier than Aix-en-Provence. The old town is superb, the fabulous restaurants in the town square. You’ll find it easier to park your car outside the walls and walk through the winding streets of the ancient town.
Between 1309 and 1377 during the Avignon Papacy, seven successive popes resided in Avignon. In 1348, Pope Clement VI bought the town from Joanna I of Naples, and papal control persisted until 1791 when, during the French Revolution, it became part of France. The town is now the capital of the Vaucluse department and one of the few French cities to have preserved its ramparts.
The historic centre, which includes the Palais des Papes, the cathedral, and the Pont d’Avignon, remember the song you may have sung in French class at school, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The medieval monuments and the annual Festival d’Avignon have helped to make the town a major centre for tourism.
Next newsletter will be about some other beautiful French towns in the Provence area, heading down to the coast! Look out for the Pont du Gard, Uzés, Aix-en-Provence and many other gorgeous places!
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