Un ‘masking’ the textile waste

Swasti Jain
5 min readJul 29, 2020

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This article focuses on a very pressing issue of waste generation by the textile industry. Now, with the rising COVID-19 cases, masks have not only become a necessity but a new fashion item too. Currently, it has been estimated that if we keep on using and disposing of the masks at this rate, there will soon be more masks than jellyfish in the ocean. So, this blog does not only suggest ways in which we can minimize waste generation at an individual level but also tells us about different steps and strategies that can be implemented by several brands. Finally, it includes a glimpse of the work I am doing to help the society.

Waste can be art. It’s a statement about the possibilities.

THE PROBLEM:

Textile waste in landfills
85% of the textile waste ends up in the landfills every year

Textile Waste

The consumers are buying more clothes and keeping them for less time. Global fashion production has doubled in the past 15 years and its associated impact on the environment is continuously increasing. The waste produced by the fashion industry is on a massive scale. According to the researchers, 95% of the textiles that are dumped each year could be recycled.[1]

MASKS: A new corona waste

This video shows how the single-use medical masks are affecting the life below water and adding to the already existing plastic waste in the oceans.

With the rise in the number of Covid-19 cases, the need for masks and PPE kits have risen too. The problem of waste generation is already too high and now the single-use medical masks are adding to it. Most of these masks contain or are made of polypropylene, which does not break down quickly.

Graphic by: Swasti Jain; Surreal or just real? It is a surreal graphic but it can become a real scenario if we continue disposing masks at this rate.

Marine plastic pollution is already a serious problem. Over eight million tonnes of plastic enter our oceans every year. This plastic slowly breaks down into micro-plastic, which enters food chains through biomagnification and its impact is devastating. Many brands are looking at this pandemic as an opportunity to increase their sales of masks.

Mask is not a consumer trend, it is a necessity and its disposal should be our responsibility.

THE SOLUTION:

How can we fix the problem of waste generation at an individual level?

At an individual level, we can change this pattern. With the help of conscious consumerism and ethical practices, we can together overcome this grave problem.

Upcycling consists of a variety of processes by which old products can be modified and given a second life as they are turned into a new product. In other words, it is about products that can be re-adapted/re-purposed in a creative way to expand their lifespan.

Example: Upcycle old cotton articles at home and make beautifully printed masks out of it. Even if there is no sewing machine, masks can be made with various other hacks. (using rubber bands, hand stitching, elastics)

Re-use: According to Elizabeth L. Cline (the author of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion) we only wear our clothes 7 times on average before discarding them. So, wear your clothes for a longer period and avoid giving into seasonal trends and compulsive shopping habits.

Participate/organize cloth swap events: A place where individuals can swap their clothes(which are in good condition) with other people. This way a person need not get rid of the garment completely, rather it can be re-used by some other individual.

So, from wearing, restyling and repairing the clothes that we already own, swapping the clothes we no longer require, to actively buying clothes made with recycled fibers/upcycled fabrics, or more sustainable raw materials, there are many fashion-forward ways to enjoy a closet with a cause.

What can brands/organizations do to minimize waste generation?

Switch to Circular economy models instead of following the waste-creating linear models. Linear clothing system has a damaging effect on society and the environment.

This is what a linear clothing system looks like
An example of a refined circular model

Circular System: It is often defined as a system in which raw materials that are used to create consumer products, are re-used at the end of their life cycle to create new products over and over.

By focusing on how a product will be made, how it will be used, and what will happen to it afterward, designers can unlock the full value of clothing rather than seeing it lost to the landfills.

The process begins right from selecting the fabrics which can be re-utilized. Other innovations include the rise of sharing platforms that create access to clothing and accessories (Rental sites), as well as product life extension where garments can be taken into stores for repair and maintenance.

Several brands have already adopted the circular models like TeeMill and ECOALF. They are focusing on recycling the garments at the molecular level. They have come up with technologies that can even recycle blends like Polycot. TeeMill has also put QR codes on their garment tags; once the consumer is done wearing the garment, he/she can scan the code and can return the garment for free. The brand has been providing incentives in the form of discounts to the costumers who send their used garments back for recycling.

The challenge of closing the loop on medical products: Medical sector generates a large amount of waste, but the application of circular design principles is difficult because of the clinical challenges of safety and sterility that re-use of products entail. The design of medical masks is a high-risk field, where any reduction in functionality could endanger lives. Separation of recyclable waste and circularity of healthcare products are fields yet to be explored.

What did I do to help society and reduce textile waste at the same time?

Re-usable cloth masks can be easily made at home. Here is a tutorial to make a DIY face mask.

Under the #millionmaskchallenge, an initiative by NIFT students, I stitched and distributed masks to the underprivileged and disadvantaged people. I upcycled old cotton Kurtis and bedsheets and turned them into beautiful reusable masks. I recorded a tutorial for the people to make a DIY face mask at home.

CONCLUSION

We together need to address the issue of waste generation and do our bit. Sustainability is not a one-man job, but it can be attained by every person’s effort. The process of unlearning our old habits should begin now and the vision of a sustainable future must prevail.

References

[1] http://www.smartasn.org/ | Secondary Materials and Recycling Textiles [SMART]

[2]https://www.fashionrevolution.org/waste-is-it-really-in-fashion/

[3] Towards design strategies for circular medical products |G.M.KaneC.A.BakkerA.R.Balkenende

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