The shelves of the night-the secrets of Saint-Pol-de-Léon’s skull boxes
One of the best aspects of this lifestyle is that we often stumble upon intriguing places and curiosities by sheer chance, particularly when we’re not actively seeking them.
Just before Christmas, we visited Saint-Pol-de-Léon. It is a picturesque town, located very close to our current home, and we had been there before but this time we decided to take a peek inside the Saint-Paul Aurélien Cathedral by pure chance. And there we found a detail that seemed quite macabre and prompted me to seek more information about what it was all about.
This Cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece that reflects the town’s rich history and heritage. It is one of the town’s most remarkable landmarks. Dedicated to Saint Paul Aurélien, one of Brittany’s seven founder saints, the cathedral’s impressive architecture, including its soaring spires and intricate details, attracts both pilgrims and curious travelers.
But it’s not just the cathedral itself that attracts visitors; it’s also what’s housed within — a collection known as “Les Étagères de la Nuit” or “The Shelves of the Night.” This collection consists of 31 hand-painted wooden boxes, dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries, each containing an authentic human skull. Most of the skulls can be seen through heart- or trefoil-shaped holes in the boxes.
These skull boxes, while mysterious in nature, are not exclusive to Saint-Pol-de-Léon. They are part of a broader European tradition of preserving human remains. Ossuaries and charnel houses were common features, providing practical solutions to the challenges of overcrowded cemeteries. Within these boxes, the bones offer a window into the lives of individuals from various backgrounds and social strata. The collection includes the remains of monks, doctors, education officers, local lords, bakers, and even children.
Skull boxes were frequently employed when dealing with the deceased during cemetery clearances to make space for new burials. Approximately five years after burial, once decomposition had occurred, the bones were exhumed from their graves and relocated to an ossuary. Skulls, unlike other bones, typically received distinctive treatment. When the identity of the deceased was known, their skull was placed in a small wooden reliquary. Each box was then carefully adorned with the deceased’s name or initials, along with the date of their passing.
The skull boxes come in various shapes, patterns, and sizes, often resembling miniature chapels complete with a Christian cross on top. These boxes go beyond being mere containers; they are intricate expressions of art and devotion. Adorned with elaborate designs and religious symbols, they offer a glimpse into the beliefs and customs of their time. Some boxes feature inscriptions that detail the occupant’s profession, along with brief memento mori reminders on their fronts. Among the common funerary symbols adorning these remarkable containers are tears, hourglasses, and even additional skulls. Crosses, tears, and memento mori motifs serve as poignant reminders of the impermanence of life and the importance of prayer for the departed.
While the practice of preserving human skulls and bones may appear macabre by contemporary standards, it was often steeped in religious beliefs concerning the afterlife, resurrection, and the importance of honoring and praying for the departed. The inscriptions and symbols adorning the reliquaries held spiritual significance. Despite the somewhat unsettling nature of these reliquaries, they are firmly rooted in religious traditions. They evoke themes of rebirth, remembrance, and the journey to the hereafter. Inscriptions like “d.c.d” (décédé·e, meaning deceased), “ci gist,” or “ci gît” (here lies) convey profound spiritual meanings that encourage contemplation.
Collections like “Les Étagères de la Nuit” are invaluable cultural artifacts. They offer insights into the past, illustrating how societies once coped with issues of burial and memory. Efforts to safeguard and protect these collections ensure that they continue to enrich our understanding of history.
Visitors to the Saint-Paul Aurélien Cathedral have the unique opportunity to explore this extraordinary collection. The skulls and reliquaries, displayed behind a wrought-iron gate, create a captivating atmosphere that encourages reflection on mortality, legacy, and the passage of time.
“Les Étagères de la Nuit” in the Saint-Paul Aurélien Cathedral is a remarkable testament to Brittany’s historical and cultural heritage. It invites us to delve into the past, to contemplate life and death, and to appreciate the enduring legacy of those who came before us. As we stand before these enigmatic relics, we are reminded that even in the silence of the night, the echoes of history continue to resonate.
If you ever visit this part of Bretagne, don’t miss the opportunity to explore the Saint-Paul Aurélien Cathedral and the captivating ‘Les Étagères de la Nuit.’ The collection is very beautiful and thought-provoking, and the atmosphere in the cathedral is pleasantly dark, enhanced by the mood-setting choir singing overhead. The cathedral holds numerous other highly interesting details; ‘Les Étagères de la Nuit.’ is just one piece of its offerings and history.
Tanja Palmunen, Anglesmorts.art
