TEA TRAVEL LANGUAGE
8 Trip-worthy Spots to Sip Tea in Basque Country
If you take tea seriously, then finding a proper tea place while on vacation can be daunting. I am sharing a shortlist of cafés and salons de thé in Basque Country, what teas to expect, and which nearby places you must visit.
Egun on (hello / bonjour / hola)! In a region where having une étoile Michelin is king, a trip to a salon de thé may not even make your culinary list. Heck, a friend only mentioned it as a place to find either the famous Gâteau Basque or some repose from the cold weather in early March. Don’t worry, here are a few tea spots (and cafés) in the Basque Country that a tea addict and foodie would approve of. Goazen (let’s go / allons-y / vamos)!
Donostia-San Sebastian, Gipuzkoa, Spain
1. MyTea, el Arte del Té
- Tea: orthodox, classic, bespoke
- Bonus: tea accessories, confiture, workshops
- Language: English, French, Spanish
- Side Trip(s): luxury brand shopping, pintxo bar hopping
This artisanal tea shop in Donostia’s central shopping district is the spot for small-batch, natural and organic teas. Tea blender Claudia Baeza is a Chilean who studied in Paris, married a French man, and then moved to Donostia. When asked which blend she is most proud of, she offered: Invierno Regaliz, her take on Euskara’s favorite herb, licorice; and, Jardines de Provenza, memories of France. You can find over 100 orthodox teas and traditional blends, alongside gift sets and tea accessories. Claudia also offers tea workshops for those wanting a more immersive experience. I love her store, and we share the same passion for bespoke tea.
Address: Etxaide Kalea, 6, bajo 1, Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain 20005
Telephone: +34 843 98 20 33
Website: MyTea, el Arte del Té
2. Donostea&Coffee
- Tea: classic, traditional, blends
- Bonus: coffee, wine, beer, light food, local feel, opens at 8h30
- Language: English, French, Spanish
- Side Trip(s): Pont Maria Cristina, Cristina Enea Parkea
Early breakfast spot in Spain where locals go. Need I say more? But this early neighborhood café had me coming back daily for other reasons. It is homey and perfect for feeling like a Donostian. Their menu is pretty extensive including viennoiseries, sandwiches, tostarricas, and of course pintxos. My favorites are Bocato Mixto Iberico, Tosta de Jamon y Tomate, and Mermelada y Mantequilla (marmalade and butter). They serve Basilur Tea, a Sri Lankan brand known for Ceylon tea, but also has classic and traditional flavors. I stopped drinking caffeine over a year ago, but I couldn’t resist the local favorite, café con Leche, but with soja milk. I love a café with dairy-free options! They are open until 20h30, so often you will find locals hanging out with pintxos and a glass of beer or wine.
From here you can take a 10-minute walk and visit Cristina Enea park and then continue to Pont Maria Cristina for another 10 minutes. Cross the river and take the overpass footbridge above the railroad tracks. Take a left and follow the path down the park. Left on Nestor Basterretxea and arrive at Pont Maria Cristina.
Address: Antso Jakituna Hiribidea, 1, Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain 20010
Parking: Paid parking along the main boulevard Antso Jakituna Hiribidea. Do not park on side streets that are reserved for residents.
Telephone: +34 943 26 51 73
Website: Donostea&Coffee
3. Arteuparte Gallery
- Tea: BYO
- Bonus: coffee, beer, art
- Language: English, Spanish
- Side Trip(s): trendy shopping, Bar Desy for pintxos
Why is an art gallery included in this list? Because this is probably the coolest secret spot to pause all the shopping in the ultra-cool neighborhood, Gros. Inside the store is a staircase that leads to an intimate sitting room. There is a Nespresso Vendo machine where you can pop a Euro for espresso or lungo. Or, if you are like me, you can brew that teabag in your purse with the free hot water. Mon Dieu! MDR. There is also a beer fridge. We plopped down our shopping bags and spent over an hour, passing the time with the gallery owner and artist, Paul Lataburu. In between drinks, clothes shopping, art viewings, and fond conversation, we gained energy, more threads, three artworks, and a new friendship.
You must visit Bar Desy because hands down it is the best and friendliest pintxos bar in Donostia IMHO. It is just around the corner from Arteuparte. Order the hot pintxos. Best ones are the pulpo, hamburgesa (pintxos not main course), and the Cantabrian anchovies. Bar Desy — Local 19, Ronda Kalea, 4, 20001 Donostia-San Sebastian +34 943 29 37 63
Address: Kale Berria, 4, 20001 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Parking: Parking garage on Plaza Cataluña.
Telephone: +34 943 55 83 83
Website: Arteuparte Gallery
4. India Tearen Etxea
- Tea: orthodox, classic, traditional, herbs
- Bonus: tea accessories
- Language: Spanish, some English
- Side Trip(s): trendy shopping, San Ignazio Church, De Cataluña Plaza
No fuss, straight-up neighborhood tea store for that grab and go. Whereas others stash Ibuprofen and Antihistamine in their travel pouch, I opt for the ever-reliable wellness teas like chamomile, mint, chai, lavender, etc. I stopped by this spot to top up my tin. They source their tea from Germany, and they carry necessities like tea bag sleeves and strainers. Sometimes simplicity is the answer.
The Gros neighborhood is Donostia’s artsy district. It is also where surfers hang out, which explains the youthful and casual vibe. Visit the beach on this side of town!
Address: Padre Larroca Kalea, 11, 20001 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Parking: Parking garage on Plaza Cataluña.
Telephone: +34 692 71 89 99
Website: India Tearen Etxea
Ainhoa, Nouvelle Aquitaine, France
5. Pierre Oteiza
- Tea: classic tea bags
- Bonus: charcuterie, cheese, artisan products, friendly staff, warm community
- Language: English, French, some Euskara and Spanish
- Side Trip(s): Notre Dame de l’Assomption, Qur Karrika
This famous artisan from Les Aldudes breeds the rare Basque pig (Pie Noir du Pays Basque or Euskal Txerri) and produces jambon de Kintoa. I tried to buy some from his deli shop in Saint Jean de Luz but gave up on the long wait. So, I was pleasantly surprised to find his café in Ainhoa where we sat and enjoyed artisan products over a cup of tea, coffee, and hot chocolate. The tea selection is limited to Lipton tea bags. Pourquoi pas, the star is the charcuterie anyway. The storekeeper served us a mélange of saucisson and chorizo des Aldudes, jambon de Kintoa, and Fromage de brebis de la Ferme Feranyo (sheep’s milk cheese from Feranyo Farm). We visited in early March, so there were hardly any tourists. This allowed us to speak with shopkeepers and locals at length. We got a taste of the true spirit of the Ainhoars!
En fait, j’ai eu de bonnes conversations avec la serveuse et les proprietaires de la boutique de souvenirs à côté du Pierre Oteiza café. On a parlé de tout, de la météo à mes vacances. Ils sont tous trés gentils et accueillants. J’ai apprécié la chance de pratiquer mon français.
Say Bonjour to the souvenir shop folks around the corner from the Pierre Oteiza café. I am unsure if the store’s name is L’Air du Pays, but I entered through the side door.
Also visit Donybane (L’Atelier de L’artis’Ane) for natural perfumes made by Corinne Ducourneau. She also sells Gâteau Basque from the artisinal biscuiterie Okina in case you can’t make the trip to Idaux-Mendy! Quartier Karrika 64250 Ainhoa +33 (0)5 59 29 23 48
Don’t be disappointed if you can’t climb to the summit of Atsulai to see the Aubépine chapel because the Notre Dame de l’Assomption on the main road is breathtaking. Just don’t forget to put a Euro in the coin slot at the corner end of the church to hear the music and see the light display!
Address: Qur Karrika, 64250 Ainhoa, France
Parking: Designated visitor parking at the town’s entrance
Telephone: +33 5 59 29 30 43
Website: Pierre Oteiza Ainhoa
Saint Jean de Luz, Nouvelle Aquitaine, France
6. Cafés Kikeran
- Tea: grand crus, classic, traditional, tisanes, blends
- Bonus: coffee roaster, single-origin coffee, épicerie
- Language: English, French
- Side Trip(s): Les Halles market, Maison Louis XIV, Maison Adam, shopping
Leave it to a tea addict to make a beeline to an impressive display of Dammann Frères tea tins despite being beside a buvette (bar). I visited the stall inside Les Halles de Saint Jean de Luz, but Kikeran also has its main store across the market. Here you can find coffee beans and teas en VRAC (in bulk) but you can also just purchase a cup of tea or coffee. There are hundreds of teas, including grand crus and classics. I would not be surprised if they carry Gyokuro or Dong Ding Oolong. For coffee, they have single-origin beans, and they roast unique house blends like Etxeko Goxoa (per their website). I kept it simple though and just ordered an Earl Grey Fleurs sans citron to kick off my morning.
I fell in love with Saint Jean de Luz because it reminded me of my San Francisco Bay Area hometown. Taste the original macaron recipe at Maison Adam, right across from Place de Louis XIV. And, don’t forget to visit Maison Louis XIV.
Address: 23 boulevard Victor Hugo Saint-Jean-de-Luz, 64500, France
Parking: We parked in the lot on Bd du Commandant Passicot, in front of Muxu Tattoo.
Telephone: +33 5 59 26 05 37
Website: Café Kikeran
Bayonne, Nouvelle Aquitaine, France
7. Chocolat Cazenave
- Tea: perfumed tea
- Bonus: chocolate, historical site
- Language: English, French
- Side Trip(s): Château-Vieux, Cathédrale Saint Marie de Bayonne, Quai Amiral Jaureguiberry homes, Jardin Botanique de Bayonne, shopping
Did you know that Bayonne is the chocolate capital of France? It was in the port of Bayonne where the chocolate recipe first arrived in 1610. Located on the Chocolate avenue, this historic salon de thé serves the mousseux, a hand-whipped hot chocolate. It is still prepared in the same way as it was in 1854. They serve teas by Compagnie Anglaise des Thés and Palais de Thés, one of my favorites. I chose Thé du Hammam, a Turkish recipe with green tea, roses, green dates, berries, and orange flower water.
There are plenty of notable sites to visit in this city. Please do not leave without seeing the Château-Vieux which still has original parts from the 4th century. It was also surreal to walk along the path where Romans once did. The nearby Cathédral Saint Marie de Bayonne is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take a photo of the colorful Bayonne homes along the river Nive on Quai Amiral Jaureguiberry street. If you are still looking for more things to do, then there is always shopping.
Address: 19 Rue Port Neuf, 64100 Bayonne, France
Parking: Parking Place des Basques
Telephone: +33 5 59 59 03 16
Website: Chocolat Cazenave
Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain
8. Arvo Coffee and Plants
- Tea: curated loose-leaf teas
- Bonus: plant therapy
- Language: Spanish, English
- Side Trip(s): Guggenheim museum, restaurant & bars
There must be an unwritten rule that tea lovers adore plants too. Arvo has both, plus coffee, juice presses, and small plates. It is close to the Guggenheim museum, so you can grab a quick bite or take an afternoon break here. The baristas are cool with a laid-back vibe. If you close your eyes, you could be in a café in Brooklyn, NY. This time we opted for the sencha tea, green juice, and a café latte since it was raining.
We ate the best seafood at La Casita de Sabino. We dined on a weeknight alongside festive local businessmen gathering after a workday. Order the grilled white shrimp, razor clams, and of course the grilled fish. Be prepared to speak Spanish because only one server and a cook speak English. Iparraguirre Kalea, 1, 48009 Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain +34 611 21 68 22
We stopped by for brunch and breakfast pintxos at Sua San just before departing for the airport. It is a very good modern place. Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 79, 48009 Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain +34 944 98 77 51
Address: Barraincúa Kalea, 9, 48009 Bilbo, Bizkaia, Spain
Website: Arvo Coffee & Plants
One last note about Euskara, the Basque language. The locals get a kick out of tourists speaking it. Thus, I leave you with a few useful words:
Content circa 2022. Eskerri kasko! (thank you / merci / gracias).
