The Long and Winding Road to Lompoc and its Old Pile of Rocks

On the 14th day of our California mission tour, we embarked on our longest and most exerting journey yet. We knew the ride would test our bodies though we had time since our destination was Lompoc, where we knew we would find Mission La Purisima closed. As in Monterey, the California State Park System-operated sites aren’t open on Mondays; the California State Parks really do not like Mondays. Flexible, we hoped for a little Mission mojo by finding the original location destroyed by flood, earthquake, fire, native unrest, or perhaps, all of the above. Before heading out of SLO, we needed to fuel up and take care of a little bike and gear business at REI. We are in for a busy day!

Usually, there are good options for breakfast in SLO; however, the town I love doesn’t a) enjoy waking up early or b) operate businesses on Monday or Tuesday. It’s a college town, and everyone knows the cycle of life in a college town. Party hard Thursday night through Saturday. Spend Sunday reflecting on the bad decisions you made over the weekend. Recommit to bearing down on school on Monday thru Thursday, then reward yourself for your excellent work on Thursday night, and the cycle repeats! So, anyway, Mint+Craft on Monterey Street has delicious and healthy breakfasts and good coffee drinks, but it was closed. I reverted to plan B, Louisa’s Place on Higuera Street.

Louises Place is a classic diner spoon breakfast spot, with its counter and cozy booths offering a taste of old-fashioned charm. Stephen and I both zeroed in on their Cinnamon Roll breakfast. This offering is the classic eggs, meat, potatoes, and toast breakfast, except a cinnamon roll replaces the toast. YUM! The cinnamon rolled is not some pedestrian pop-n-fresh knock-off; it’s from the renowned Old West Bakery in Pismo Beach. This option proved to be irresistible, and we were not disappointed. With our bellies full of 2000 calories of fuel for the journey, we were on our way!

As we arrived at REI, a friendly employee greeted us behind a table with coffee and bagels as part of a “Ride to Work Week” event. When we explained that our work for the week is doing the California Mission Tour by bike, he said, “That qualifies!” Although having just enjoyed a big breakfast, we politely declined the offer. Inside the store, we picked up the seat pad lickety-split and took advantage of the bike service station for some air in the tires. The bike crew at REI went above and beyond, checking our tires, chains, and gears. They even discovered a staple in my rear tire, which they promptly took care of. Their expertise and helpfulness extended beyond bike service as we discussed our Mission tour, seeking advice on the best route between San Luis Obispo and Refugio Beach. We left REI feeling grateful for their exceptional service and ready to conquer the road ahead.

While speaking with the REI guys, I encouraged them to go to Mission San Antonio because it is a treasure and the least visited of all the Missions. The guys acknowledged that some struggle for attendance and funds, like Missions Soledad, San Miguel, and San Antonio. Based on our chats with Frankie, Janie, and other staff members at the Missions, we know that funding and staffing challenges are real. These struggles arise from the costs of maintenance, preservation, and visitor services. Preserving the Missions’ architectural integrity requires regular upkeep, restoration, and repairs. The costs associated with adobe preservation, earthquake retrofitting, and maintaining the surrounding grounds are substantial. And not all Missions are in thriving communities with access to patrons and organizations with the means or inclination to help. Increased public awareness, advocacy, and support for preservation efforts are crucial to overcoming these funding challenges and safeguarding these historical treasures for future generations. I hope our journey and these posts help in some small way.

We left REI and headed for Pismo Beach, passing along Madonna Road, Los Osos Valley Road, S. Higuera Street, and Ontario Road. The marine layer provided a serene backdrop and a comfortable temperature for our ride. The gentle tailwind rewarded us for choosing a north-to-south route by propelling us past SLO’s growing neighborhoods, across San Luis Creek, and into the more serene environs of the Avila Valley. We climbed a short grade and passed from San Luis Obispo to Pismo Beach. Stephen and I, natives of San Diego, felt transported to the beach town of our youth in northern San Diego County.

Pismo Beach has that nostalgic sleepy beach town feeling reminiscent of classic car trip getaways where families stayed in modest cottages, played in the surf and sand, and dined on simple, probably fried, seafood. Founded by John Michael Price in 1840, Price was a rancher who saw the potential for agriculture and livestock grazing and established the first recorded land grant for Rancho Pismo. “Pismo” originated from the Chumash word “pismu,” meaning tar, found along the nearby seashore.

Pismo Beach remained a small agricultural and ranching community until, in the late 1800s, visitors came to enjoy the natural beauty of the area and the therapeutic local hot springs. In 1911, after the first automobile bridge was constructed, the improved accessibility opened up Pismo Beach to become a popular seaside resort destination. The heyday came in the 1930s and 1940s, when the town’s beautiful sandy beaches, temperate climate, and abundant recreational activities attracted visitors from far and wide. Pismo Beach became known for its vibrant boardwalk, amusement park, and fishing pier. While the amusement park and some iconic structures have disappeared, the town has retained its charm as a coastal getaway. With dozens of restaurants, quaint motels, and cottages lining the road, Pismo beckons passersby to pull over and enjoy the pleasures of a seaside holiday.

As we continued our journey, we breezed past Grover Beach, Arroyo Grande, and Nipomo, alternating between sweeping views of the Pacific and picturesque vistas of farms, barns, and wildflowers. We pushed south and noticed the gradual shift as the once prominent oak trees began to thin out, making way for broader vistas and hilltops adorning the horizon. It was a visual reminder that we had crossed into a different climate with the emerging essence of Southern California unfolding before us. As the scenery spread across the miles, it revealed more facets of California’s diverse landscape. The varied landscapes are a testament to the Golden State’s remarkable diversity.

Crossing over the sandy river bed of the Santa Maria River, we entered the busy town of Santa Maria, which stands as the largest city between San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara. The town traces back to the Rancho Punta de Laguna, a Spanish land grant awarded to William Dana Orcutt in 1837. Primarily used for cattle ranching and agriculture, settlers were attracted to the area by its fertile soil and the favorable climate over time.

With the arrival of the Pacific Coast Railway in 1882, Santa Maria experienced significant growth by enabling the transportation of agricultural products to markets throughout California. The farm industry flourished, with crops such as strawberries, vegetables, and, later, vineyards. The Santa Maria-style barbecue has become synonymous with the town’s culinary heritage. This unique barbecue method involves slow-cooking tri-tip beef over red oak wood, resulting in a smoky and flavorful dish that has gained popularity throughout California and beyond. The barbecue remains strong, with numerous restaurants and events showcasing this mouthwatering culinary specialty. And of the barbecue scent wafted in the air as we pedaled through.

At Orcutt, we caught Gracioso Road and thoroughly enjoyed the peaceful, practically traffic-free track through ranches and farms. Until Komoot let us down, this time, the app insisted that it was okay to trespass on private property, but the big green gate and fence thought otherwise! We had to develop an alternative route, and, as luck would have it, that meant taking Highway 1. Highway 1 and Highway 135 share a road during this stretch. If I had paid closer attention to the map and had a slight death wish, we would have stayed to the left when the roads diverged and taken CA-135. Instead, we took CA-1 to San Antonio Rd, adding 7 miles to our day. What’re 7 miles between friends?

We survived CA-1 and found San Antonio Road quiet and pleasant, if a little bumpy. Komoot was not peaceful. She (female navigation voice) complained throughout the 7-mile detour imploring us to make a U-turn and retrace our path. Komoot even directed me to make a U-turn as we rejoined the planned route just before the Harris Grade. I had to block out Komoot’s admonishment actively. I generally appreciate Komoot, but the real-time navigation can be a little tricky and quirky.

Before we began climbing the Harris Grade on the home stretch to Lompoc, we met a long-distance touring cyclist, Karen. She was headed north, and we were going south. Still, Karen crossed the road to inquire about the road conditions ahead. We shared what we knew, and Karen mentioned that she had toured 21 states and was currently making a loop in California, north on the coast and south through the inland valleys. Karen is a true touring advocate, her bike laden with camp gear and other necessities. Traveling alone, she has had some tough nights finding suitable camping while avoiding unpleasant crowds. Karen mentioned the theft of all her equipment three weeks ago and her scramble to replace it to continue. Noticing our light loads, we confirmed that we are glamping, and she scolded us good-naturedly. Second time on the trip! Undeterred, we took off for Lompoc and our hotel.

Nestled in the scenic Santa Ynez Valley, the town of Lompoc is named for the Chumash word “Lum Poc,” meaning “stagnant waters” or “lagoon.” The name is a nod to the town’s location near the Santa Ynez River, which once formed a lagoon-like area in the region.

Lompoc’s history traces back to establishing the Spanish mission outpost, La Purisima Concepcion, founded in 1787. In the late 1800s, Lompoc became a hub for the temperance movement. Influential figures such as John S. Bell, a local businessman, and landowner, spearheaded efforts to establish a temperance colony and the formation of the Lompoc Valley Temperance Colony in 1874, attracting settlers who advocated for a sober and morally upright community.

Today, Lompoc is known for its diverse economy, with agriculture, aerospace, and viticulture playing significant roles. The town’s mild Mediterranean climate and fertile soil make it ideal for flower cultivation. And Lompoc is often referred to as the “Flower Seed Capital of the World” and hosts an annual flower festival.

Lompoc is home to Vandenberg Space Force Base, that conducts space launches and testing missile systems. The base has profoundly impacted the town’s economy and character, attracting a diverse population of military personnel and their families.

According to Lompoc’s Chamber of Commerce, its unique character is seen in the well-preserved historic architecture, including Victorian-era homes and downtown buildings. Visitors can explore its charming downtown area, filled with boutiques, antique shops, and cozy cafés. It embraces its small-town charm while offering a range of amenities and recreational opportunities. From exploring the surrounding vineyards of the Santa Rita Hills to enjoying outdoor adventures in the nearby Jalama Beach County Park, there is no shortage of activities for nature enthusiasts and wine lovers.

Maybe so, but as we cycled through Lompoc, we saw more struggling big box malls. These working-class multifamily units gradually gave way to neighborhoods of working-class single-family dwellings and finally to a few blocks of well-kept, charming cottages and houses. Lompoc, while hardworking and bustling, didn’t seem to have a lot of character. However, my lens was pretty narrow.

To get my Mission and history fix for the day, we searched for the original location of Mission La Purisima in Lompoc. Our journey led us through busy streets and neighborhoods on a bike path punctuated by a stop sign at every block for over 12 blocks. UGH! After 60+ miles, this insulted our legs and psyches, yet we persevered…Siempre Ade-freaking-lante!

When finally arriving at the original location, a plaque on a stone marked the Mission’s historical presence. I was disappointed as I expected some rubble or a pile of rocks. My friend, Lo, knows I love myself a pile of rocks! Turning to ride off, discouraged by the letdown, what do I see but a glorious, beautifully decrepit pile of rocks! Worn, weathered walls standing proudly amidst the prickly pear cacti and vibrant wildflowers. Satisfied by our discovery, we retraced our path toward our hotel.

After a few twists and turns, Komoot cooperated with some assistance from Apple Maps. I might have been too tired to intervene in their sibling rivalry, so perhaps I wasn’t paying close enough attention to their prompts. We finally arrived at the comfort of the Holiday Inn Express, ready to shower, unwind, refuel, and reflect on our day.

We will continue our mission tour tomorrow, riding to Mission La Purisima and Mission Santa Inés and then on to the Santa Barbara area, where we will meet our fellow travelers, Dave Mason, and Bob Howard-Anderson, for the next phase of our journey.