Tom Ford: The Business Genius of Fashion (Part 2)
Tom Ford is a one-of-a-kind icon man who took fashion from the runway to Wall Street — and then topped it all off on Hollywood’s red carpets.
Indeed, he’s not just a designer — he’s a cultural phenomenon with Gucci as his playground, Yves Saint Laurent as his canvas, and, eventually — the cinema as his stage.
Now, in episode 1, we covered Tom Ford’s transformative role in rejuvenating Gucci during the 1990s -
First hired by then-Creative Director Dawn Mello, Ford initially focused on women’s wear as part of a strategy to revive the struggling brand — and his bold design philosophy quickly catapulted him to greater responsibilities — including men’s wear and overall design direction.
Lastly, we discussed how despite internal tensions, Ford’s daring approach redefined Gucci’s image, won celebrity endorsements, and dramatically improved its financial performance — even facilitating acquisitions like Yves Saint Laurent.
In today’s episode, we’ll cover Tom Ford’s transition from Gucci to Yves Saint Laurent — and how he truly began to take charge for himself and redefine the role of “creative director” for fashion history.
1. The Genius At Gucci
Now, in the world of fashion, certain moments etch themselves into the collective cultural memory as turning points.
The Tom Ford era at Gucci was indisputably one of them.
Gucci’s transition from the brink of bankruptcy to a powerhouse that began acquiring other fashion houses like St. Laurent, Alexander McQueen, and Stella McCartney, marked a pivotal moment.
It was more than just a financial shift — it was an evolution of brand identity and industry norms.
The emergence of Tom Ford as the face of Gucci was a key catalyst in this metamorphosis.
You see, before Tom Ford, Gucci had Dawn Mello serving as design director, a figure largely unknown to the mainstream — until Ford’s ascendancy changed this dynamic entirely.
He wasn’t just a design director — he would become a celebrity, an “influencer” before the term had even entered the popular lexicon.
People didn’t merely think of Ford as someone behind the scenes — they saw him as an embodiment of the brand — lifting not only Gucci but also himself into the stratosphere of societal power figures.
Therefore, when Gucci expanded its empire to include other iconic brands, they rebranded as the Gucci Group and made a strategic move — appointing Tom Ford as the director of St. Laurent as well.
Ford took the helm and almost instantaneously repositioned St. Laurent as a brand synonymous with edgy, sensuous designs.
And his influence wasn’t limited to tailoring and textiles — he was reshaping the very culture of fashion.
You see, around this time, the industry started transitioning from using the title ‘design director’ to ‘creative director.’
The change wasn’t merely semantic.
Creative directors like Ford were transcending traditional responsibilities.
They weren’t just overseeing designs — they were curating experiences, molding brand images, and engaging with public perception on multiple levels.
While exact titles and duties may differ depending on the source, it is universally acknowledged that Ford managed significant roles in parallel — serving as the creative director for not just one, but two fashion powerhouses: Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent.
His influence wasn’t limited to artistic sketches or fashion shows — it reverberated across corporate boardrooms and strategic planning sessions.
This is because Ford wasn’t merely content with being a designer — he sought to be an innovator in the broader business context.
2. Tom Ford: The Burgeoning Business Icon
Now, Tom Ford’s reach began to expand beyond the design studio into areas like advertising, where he dramatically overhauled Gucci’s promotional approach.
Throughout the early part of the 21st century, Ford was the driving force behind audacious marketing initiatives that elicited a mix of admiration and skepticism.
Detractors may have labeled his work as excessively risqué or even incendiary — yet the efficacy of these campaigns was undeniable.
They sold more than mere garments — they sold a vision, a way of life, a philosophical stance even.
And in addition to his artistic pursuits, Ford also shouldered managerial responsibilities, morphing traditional perceptions of what a creative director could be.
Though the details of his executive roles may not be universally known — the fact remains that he simultaneously navigated the high-pressure worlds of both fashion design and corporate leadership.
This multi-dimensionality elevated him into a celebrity unto himself.
Not just any celebrity, but a powerhouse sought after by other stars and revered in high society.
Ford’s influence extended even further into the advertising realm, executing bold and daring campaigns that polarized opinions but never failed to generate buzz.
Far from being universally acclaimed, these provocative efforts were often criticized for pushing boundaries — with images that some considered too explicit.
Yet this very audacity captivated public imagination, spurred conversations — and, most crucially, accelerated sales.
The campaigns tapped into the zeitgeist in a way that was not only fashionable but also culturally resonant.
And such accomplishments didn’t go unnoticed in the upper echelons of the fashion industry.
Bernard Arnault — the formidable CEO of LVMH — couldn’t ignore the seismic shifts Ford was instigating at Gucci.
Intrigued by Ford’s transformative influence, Arnault saw an opportunity to possibly consolidate power within the luxury market by aligning himself with this newfound success.
Hence, he began a calculated effort to acquire Gucci shares — and over time, his stake in the company grew to a substantial 34%.
It’s also worth noting the complexity of the relationship between Arnault and Ford during this period.
Arnault was no stranger to the business of fashion — he was a titan in an industry built on aesthetic appeal and brand power.
His interest in Gucci wasn’t just financial — it was strategic, a calculated move in the high-stakes chessboard of luxury brands.
Ford, on the other hand, was wary of ceding creative control or becoming just another asset in LVMH’s sprawling portfolio.
Their dynamic was one of mutual admiration laced with caution.
Arnault was captivated by Ford’s creative genius and the financial rejuvenation he had brought to Gucci — while Ford respected Arnault’s business acumen but remained protective of his creative freedom.
This delicate interplay resulted in an uneasy but fascinating dance, and it also set the stage for the future rivalries and alliances that would shape the luxury fashion landscape for years to come.
So, in a world where names and numbers often dominate, Ford proved that creativity could be the strongest currency.
His fearless advertising strategies did more than just propel sales figures — they galvanized a brand, reshaped industry expectations, and introduced a new chapter in the ongoing narrative of luxury fashion.
3. Tom vs. The World
In an industry that often prefers diplomacy over direct confrontation, the dynamics between Gucci and LVMH turned heads.
At the center of it all were two influential figures — Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole, Gucci’s then-CEO.
De Sole’s faith in Ford wasn’t mere managerial trust — it was a full-throated endorsement of Ford’s capabilities.
Together, they mounted a legal and strategic defense against Bernard Arnault’s overt attempts to acquire Gucci.
Rather than being a simple capital exchange, Arnault’s maneuvers were seen as an aggressive takeover bid disguised as shareholder interest.
Ford and De Sole contended that Arnault should come forth with a formal and transparent offer if his intentions were genuine.
Ultimately, Arnault’s attempts were thwarted — laying the groundwork for a quiet yet enduring rivalry between Gucci and Louis Vuitton that persists to this day.
Today, one would be hard-pressed to find fashion enthusiasts who don’t have a strong preference for either Gucci or Louis Vuitton.
Each has cultivated its own aesthetic and brand identity, but imagine a parallel universe where Arnault succeeded in his acquisition.
Gucci would likely have been swallowed into LVMH’s conglomerate, operating under the same umbrella as Louis Vuitton.
The repercussions for the fashion industry would have been seismic, creating a monolithic power that could have stifled competition and innovation.
But the high-stakes corporate intrigue wasn’t the only battlefield.
Another drama unfolded, this time in the realm of pure aesthetics and brand identity.
When Gucci Group acquired Yves Saint Laurent, Ford was appointed as its creative director.
His penchant for provocative and audacious designs was well-known, and the public largely adored his artistic boldness.
However, Yves Saint Laurent — the brand’s founder who was still alive at that time — had a markedly different vision for his eponymous label.
His ideas, molded over decades, stood in stark contrast to Ford’s contemporary and daring sensibilities.
The clash between Ford and Saint Laurent was more than just a generational divide — it was a tug-of-war over the very soul of the YSL brand.
Saint Laurent had his own long-established ideas about how his brand should look and feel — views formed over 20 or 30 years that were deeply entrenched in the fashion world.
The confrontation was not merely whispered in the inner circles of the industry — it broke out publicly, turning the conflict into a high-profile fashion face-off.
This tension didn’t fester quietly within industry corridors; it erupted into public view.
Yves Saint Laurent expressed his disapproval rather bluntly — remarking that Ford was doing the best he could, but implying it was hardly up to his own lofty standards.
However, in the volatile world of fashion, sentimentality seldom trumps profitability.
With Ford at the helm, the YSL brand enjoyed a resurgence in revenue.
This financial boon reinforced the notion that fashion doesn’t stand still for anyone — it evolves or risks obsolescence.
Despite Saint Laurent’s reservations, the company pressed forward with Ford’s vision, — emboldened by its new-found financial vitality.
4. After Gucci
Yet, even visionaries like Ford aren’t immune to the vicissitudes of corporate change.
His near decade-long run as the creative powerhouse behind these iconic brands began to wane as new decision-makers arrived on the scene.
Their expectations and Ford’s creative direction started to diverge — culminating in his departure in 2004.
But Ford is a man of many talents — not content to rest on his laurels.
Upon leaving the fashion world, he set his sights on the realm of cinema.
While many raised their eyebrows at this pivot, Ford silenced skeptics when he released his directorial debut in 2009 — A Single Man.
The film — featuring A-list actor Colin Firth — was a critical success and showcased Ford’s artistic depth.
However, Tom Ford’s cinematic journey didn’t end with A Single Man.
He followed it up with Nocturnal Animals in 2016 — a neo-noir psychological thriller that he not only directed but also wrote and produced.
Based on Austin Wright’s 1993 novel Tony and Susan, the film received laudatory reviews for its layered performances — intricate direction, and visually captivating style.
Michael Shannon — one of the film’s standout performers — even garnered an Academy Award nomination for Best Supporting Actor.
And simultaneously, the year after leaving the fashion world in 2004, Ford made another audacious move — he launched his own fashion line under his namesake — Tom Ford.
Today, it stands as a pillar of modern luxury — remarkably ascending to a level of respect that rivals fashion houses that have been in existence for more than 100 years.
This ascendancy not only boosted Ford’s own profile but also underscored the significance of the creative director in the fashion industry.
No longer just the silent hands sketching behind closed doors, the creative director was revealed as the linchpin — the charismatic force driving both the aesthetic and commercial success of a brand.
Stay tuned for the next episode — where we will delve deeper into the rise and continued success of Tom Ford’s eponymous fashion empire.
