#haikureview: Sapporo Snow Festival

I’m sure there is a haiku somewhere in here.

two villains.

Let’s compare the reputation and social engagement of the police in the United States and in Japan for a moment, shall we? In Sapporo, Japan, there is an annual snow and ice celebration that was founded fifty years ago when a group of police challenged some school children to a snowman building competition. In the United States… well, let’s focus on Japan actually.

Sapporo is a fantastic city, and Hokkaido (Japan’s northernmost island) is absolutely fascinating in its differences from the rest of the country. Remember when Sarah Palin said that thing about seeing Russia from her porch? Well, in Hokkaido, you can actually do that. In fact, a long disputed tiny landmass off of Hokkaido was just given to Russia by the Japanese government, which is a cause of much concern to some right-wing protestors, but this is a review about adorable snow sculptures not regional geopolitical issues so can we get back on topic please?

Thank you.

Sapporo is known for it’s strong culinary traditions, amazing seafood, the friendliness of its citizens, and of course, snow. Let’s get right to the good stuff: the snow was truly awe-inspiring, as advertised. Corporations, government groups, community organizations, talented individuals: everyone is commissioning snow sculptures for this festival. The most elaborate structures involve original musical accompaniment, unbelievable light and video projections, and it’s just unlike anything I’ve ever seen. There is something archetypally satisfying about shuffling about in frigid weather holding a warm drink and ogling these products of human creativity and ingenuity with a bunch of strangers from all around the world.

Meanwhile, there are also really extreme snow sports taking place, including this event that I witnessed with bated breath.

how nobody died i do not know.

There are also ice sculptures, but after the glorious magnitude of the snow, the ice didn’t astound me the same way — I highly recommend that you learn from my mistakes and see the ice first so it can get it’s due admiration.

There are some other things you really need to know about but I’m getting tired so I will punch them out like snowballs instead of bullet points.

Visit the epic fish market if you like to eat fish. Fascinating delicacies. They are all about the roe and uni there.

you really have no idea how difficult it is to hold two roe between your chopsticks.

I stayed at the Sapporo Park Hotel. Perfect location, immaculate room, gorgeous white birch park views, impeccable service, and a super weird 70s glam members-only lounge that is just… you just have to go there to believe me.

I found a real hidden gem: the Bossa Cafe. A second floor homage to all things jazz, the whole point of the place is to just sit and listen to music pouring out of the immense sound system. Do enjoy a beverage and sounds. The pizza… maybe skip the pizza.

amazing speakers. and the juice at the onsen is made of blue berried honeysuckle puree. i hated it obviously.

Side trip from Sapporo: ONSENS. There are a bunch nearby but I’m sure the one I visited must be the best one. Hoheikyo. Old school sulfur hot springs surrounded by snowy mountains that will literally make you believe in god. Go there.

Lastly, I was wandering around the neighborhood one night, and came across a glowing window. A young Japanese man was looking out at me and literally waved at me to come inside, through the glass. This is unheard of behavior. I went inside, and it was a friendly little bar attached to a hostel. Every single human being there was a true gem, and I must give particularly appreciation to Shiba-san. Shiba, if you ever need anything in life, call me. I got your back.

look at that service. and that ainu owl. and that japanese pop star singing on a stage of snow!

Up next: What are Tokyo night clubs like I wonder???

Much love.

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