Food Culture and the Influence of Arab Cuisine In Bangalore
By Akanksha Bose
As Chicago based food historian Colleen Taylor Sen says, religion has a huge role to play in determining the way food enters and influences a particular nation. The continuity of basic elements of Indian food have been documented in scriptures as early as the Vedas, with the veneration of cows and the love of ghee as well the early plantation of items such as eggplant, millets, lentils and spices such as cardamom, turmeric and tamarind being used in dishes prepared through age old cooking techniques such as the smoking of hay over pits in the ground and the steaming of rose petals to extract flavor for sweets, there is a lot about Indian food culture that intrigues. India’s role in global food culture has been extremely significant, with it’s distribution of spices and especially items like eggplants which is eaten all over the regions of Central Asia, The Middle East and the Mediterranean.
Silk Route And India’s Role
The trading of spices and handlooms had been an old ongoing tradition, as India was known as the spice capital of the world before the British Invasion, the Silk Route was one of the major passage ways wherein traders would transport spices and handlooms from the eastern sectors to the western sectors, with India being one of the most popular in the spice business followed by Sri Lanka and Indonesia.The sites covered by the Silk route that ultimately connected China with the west, with various influences brought about in culture(on the basis of food) as well as religion, covered some important trade sites in India.These sites included Bihar, Jammu and Kashmir, Maharastra, Puducherry, Punjab, Tamil Nadu and Uttar Pradesh. Looking at the diversity of regions covered by this trade route, spices from the far north as well as the prominent spice states of the south were transported to Europe.
Bangalore and Food History
Bangalore food has an extraordinary culinary heritage. With radical influences from the Chola and Chalukya dynasties, the Vijayanagara Empire, being the main governing empire in the city took more than architectural influences, it had a massive effect on food bringing in important additions such as mustard and ground nut taken from monoliths descending from temples created in the same era.
The city was captured by British Empire in 1791 that led to the introduction of western eating habits as well as several aspects of British cuisine finding it’s place within elites, thereby giving a new shade to Vijayanagara’s food scene. But the influence of the Chalukya and Chola dynasties remained with imprints on modern Karnataka cuisine.
Karnataka Cuisine and Bangalore
Ragi and rice being the most important and staple grains, it is used in almost all the dominant dishes in South Karnataka, which includes Bangalore.Regular meals include rice and yogurt often with several additions to the same, including curry leaves, mustard seeds as well as a wistful amount of coconut, making it a common addition to a South Indian thali and equally refreshing to the palate.
Formal vegetarian meals, often served on a banana leaf are meant to be served and consumed in a particular fashion. There are a few staple items that one would definitely find in such occasions, such as Payla, Kosambari, bajji, bonda and several others. The whole course is separated into two 3 sections, the appetisers which contain the above delicacies, the second course, which is a set of curries consumed with rice, with lentils and ghee as well as a variety of dals.The final course always ends with rice and curd.The dessert though is a rather prominent piece of jaggery.
The non vegetarian alternatives consist of spicy meat(Pandi(pork) curry, mutton,chicken) with the special ingredient being kokum.
Bangalore and Modern Cuisine
Different types of cuisines have entered the scene after the IT sector made Bangalore, the “silicon valley” of India. Now, South Indian cuisine can be called the one of many in this city. With North Indian, Chinese and local food producers gaining market, the crowd of Bangalore is being introduced to what is a diaspora of choices.
While Bangalore caters to all types of population, their tradition remains with these iconic vegetarian restaurants -
1. MTR (Mavalli Tiffin Rooms)- Visiting this location, near Lalbagh doesn’t really seem much at the very first glance. But once entered, the benches on one side of the relatively small reception is filled to the brim with people, some holding attractive desserts in hand, while others wait patiently for their turn. When inquiring about who I could talk to, the manager first asked if I spoke Kannada, which brought about a bit of confusion on both the sides, pointing out the fact that MTR’s authenticity holds true right to its language. I couldn’t really get a proper statement as it was a Saturday and the manager said “It’s too much of a rush today, I cannot stand and speak, come on a weekday.” I still surveyed their seating area and asked around for customer insight, all of which were gloriously positive. Some said that MTR was “the place” to be for pure and unadulterated South Indian cuisine.
2. Vidyarthi Bhavan-Getting in through the massive iron gates was a herculean task in this one, located on Gandhi Bazaar, amidst a massive flower market, Vidyarthi Bhavan has its own world charm and that is found in the stone framework with wooden seats. With waiters wearing a dhoti and carrying plates to tables, crisp dosas and filter coffees hitting my nose, this ode to South Indian cuisine is any foodie’s place to be.When talking to the manager, he too speaks exclusively in Kannada, thwarting my efforts to learn about this place’s glorious heritage.
Both of these franchises are famous for their Masala Dose, Rava idli and Pongal.
Muslim Cuisine and the Entrance of Middle Eastern Cuisine
The Muslim cuisine in Bangalore is unique and brings about lots of influences from Mughlai, Hyderabadi or Nawabi cuisine with a Bangalorean twist.The majority of Muslim cuisine can be found on MM Road in Fraser Town as that area consists of accumulation of Muslim population. One of the sub branches of the famous restaurant Empire, known as Karama, is one of the busiest franchises in the area.Other than the latter, a collection of 5 and 6 Muslim restaurants, 3 to 4 Mughlai takeaways and 2 Arabian themed restaurants.
Arabian Cuisine and Famous Outlets
Arabian cuisine is slowly on the rise, with famous dishes like Shawarma and Pita fillers, with stuffing like chicken and beef found in small spread out shops, often vendors found in busy streets, selling handy Arabian dishes, enjoyed by various portions of Bangalore’s population. Most of their crowd consists of Arab students and Indians who have lived in the Middle East. While these franchises cater to mainly non vegetarian customers, there are limited vegetarian choices consisting of humus varieties and chick pea dishes.
The Savoury Seashell
One of the go to places for some good Arabian grub is The Savoury Seashell.Many of those coming from the Gulf region, as well as people of Arab descent find pleasure in their food and give their food, the authentic stamp.Non vegetarian lovers with a special knack for grilled and Tandoori dishes also find respite in this particular joint.
Situated on the busy Mosque Road, the hub of Fraser Town famous for its annual Ramzan iftaar food festival, Savoury which set shop in 2002, has created quite a name and has entered the big leagues in the food market, creating quite a name in Arabian cuisine.Visiting the Bannerghatta Road branch, which gets extremely busy around 12pm and 4pm, the manager explains how Arabian cuisine has found its way into being one of Bangalore’s favourites.
The Interview
When having a word with the manager, he spoke of the origin of Savoury and when it was extended to Bannerghatta road on 3rd March, 2011.
When asked about the menu, he exclaimed that it was multi cuisine while Arabian was their speciality. “But why expand from exclusive Arabian cuisine?” he replies, “As we need to cater to a diverse audience, we have expanded our menu to North Indian and Tandoori”.
When asked about the initial reactions of the customers when this franchise first opened, his reply “Customers living in extreme south don’t have to travel all the way to Frazer Town to enjoy our Arabian delicacies, we’ve gotten positive comments throughout, with customers happy that we’ve maintained our authenticity”.
“What is the signature or defining dish of this establishment?” To which he answers, “Barbecue and grilled dishes go out the window, with the most sales.”
“Where are your other branches, except Bangalore?” his reply “We have branches in Chennai and Emirates.The Emirates, being one of the dominant markets indulge in our classic Arabian cuisine.”
The manager has worked for the GCC, and has been surrounded by Arabian and other Middle Eastern franchises. He has been working for Savoury, for the last 5 years. “Our rush hour goes from 12pm to 4pm in the afternoon and 8pm to 12pm at night.”
Before ending this interview, I asked “What is the one dish you would like me to eat, before I leave, that would represent Savoury?” “Al-faham” he said.
The Empire
The first franchise stood at Shivaji Nagar in 1966, creating a new name in the Arabian cuisine market. Originating from yours truly, it extended its enterprise to a variety of locations.These are listed below-:
1. Kamanahalli
2. Koromangala
3. Church Street
4. Bannerghatta Road
The Interview
I met the manager of the Bannerghatta Road branch and requested to ask a few questions. Thankfully, he obliged.
- “What is your most popular branch?” to which he replied “The Koramangala branch gets the most customers.”
2. “What are the busiest days of the week?” “Mainly the weekends. We are packed from 1pm to 5pm in the afternoon and 9pm to 1am at night. Though the dinner crowd has always been more.”
3. “Do you serve completely Arabian cuisine?” to which he replied, “No, we don’t do authentic Arabian cuisine, but our sub branch Karama specialises in a completely Arabian spread. The Empire is more of a multi cuisine restaurant. We cater mainly to North Indians, some South Indian customers and mainly localites.”
4. “Why is Karama, extensively Arabian?”, his reply “ As The Empire started out as an Arabian themed franchise, we understood that keeping it completely Arabian would lead to a lower target audience. So Karama, has been our new endeavour, with 2 franchises in Fraser Town and Koramangala, which caters to Arabian, Karachi, Pakistani and Punjabi customers.” Featuring all Arabian, this franchise is for foodies with delectable taste buds.
5. “How do you compete on the value for money scenario?” We believe we maintain a middle range rate.Not too expensive, not too cheap.”
6. “What are the defining dishes of both your Empire and Karama outlets?” His reply, “ If you’re going to Karama, you must have the Mandi Biryani, Karachi Biryani and our Paya.” And for Empire, “try our chicken kebabs and grilled chicken as well as Ghee rice”.
7. “When is Empire, the busiest?”. “Our rush hour, is from 12pm to 4pm and 8pm to 1am, and you would have to book a table to find a place.”
In conclusion,Arabian cuisine has spread to Bangalore and has been taken up by the Bangalore population and is creating a mixed culture that was brought in by the IT crowd. Bangalore, like it’s name continues to create a bang in culture.
